Hi everyone!

I'm hoping to gain a little insight of the problems I am having with my 2004 5.4L. For the past several weeks, it has had a harsh rattle when first started, but goes away after two seconds or so.

Anyway, after making a stop yesterday and cranking my truck back up, it got to running very rough. Rough idle, shuttering down the road, seemingly loss of power. I got home and checked the codes and had many:

P2196 (pending) - O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Rich (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0152 - O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0174 - System Too Lean (Bank 2)
P0705 - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input)
P0012 (pending) - Camshaft Position “A” - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
P0172 (pending) - Fuel system too rich (bank 1)
P0300 (pending) - Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0301 (pending) - Cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0303 (pending) - Cylinder 3 misfire detected
P0316 (pending) - Engine misfire detected on startup (first 1000 revolutions)

Did nothing with it at that moment, but later in the evening, when I needed to leave, my truck was really dragging and seemingly didn't want to go. Turned it back off. Hoping it could be something electrical that may just need a hard reset, I disconnected the battery for a minute. After doing so, most of the previous codes were gone, but I had a couple of new ones:

P2104 (pending) - Throttle Actuator Control System Forced Idle
P2112 (pending) - Throttle Actuator Control System - Stuck Closed
P0606 (pending) - PCM Processor Fault

Did some digging and came to the conclusion I should first try an oil change (can't remember the exact code where it was mentioned about the oil but figured it was a good first step since it was actually over due). But alas, while it did clear up some of the rattling I've been hearing (added Lucas), my truck still is idling rough and when put into gear, stutters very harshly. I was getting curious about the throttle position sensor and mass air flow sensor. Unplugged the MAF to see what would happen, still the same. Next, I decided I would replace the throttle position sensor, but before doing so, I wanted to get some opinions.

So, now I have a new batch of codes, some I'm sure come from the unplugging of the MAF (p0102 and p01130, but here goes:

P2195 - O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0012 (pending) - Camshaft Position “A” - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
P0102 (pending) - Mass Airflow (MAF) Circuit Low Voltage Input
P0113 (pending) - Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor circuit high input problem
P0606 (pending) - PCM Processor Fault
P2104 (pending) - Throttle Actuator Control System Forced Idle
P2106 (pending) - Throttle Actuator Control System Forced Limited Power
P2112 (pending) - Throttle Actuator Control System - Stuck Closed
P2197 (pending) - O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean Bank 2 Sensor 1

Sorry so long-winded. I wanted to give as much detail into my problem as I could. I feel like there is likely a common issue causing most of these codes, but not sure if I should lean towards the throttle body, PCM, or something else. Any insight you guys can provide is very much appreciated!

Thanks again!

 

Check ALL of your grounds first, along with all electrical connections.

Look for any infestations (rodent/squirrel/chipmunk/etc) that have chewed up wires. This also includes chaffed/burned wiring.

Check the fuse boxes for popped fuses and bad/stuck relays. Including rust/corrosion or water ingress.

Finally get your alternator and battery load tested.

 

When you changed the oil, what oil (weight, type, brand) and filter (brand) did you use?

Your throttle body probably needs cleaning. This is the proper and safe way to do it:


How many miles on it? It may be time for a timing job - phasers, chains, guides and tensioners, etc.

 

Thanks for your tips. I actually did notice my truck drags sometimes when cranking. In fact, yesterday morning I noted I would be definitely needing a battery soon.

I'll look more thoroughly for any mangled or burnt wiring, though I didn't notice anything when giving everything a glance earlier. And I will run through the fuses and relays as well and make sure everything is okay.

Again, thanks for the tips. In the meantime, if anyone else has any other suggestions for me to look into, I'm all ears.

 

Hi,

I'm just over 190k. I've been seeing a lot about the throttle body, both from my codes and reading other sources online. I'll definitely give this a go as well. And given the mileage, I'm sure you're right on the timing job. I'll try the easy stuff first and look into having a timing job done. I bought the truck almost eight years ago at 108k and have put roughly 85k on it.

Thanks!

 

When you changed the oil, what oil (weight, type, brand) and filter (brand) did you use?

If you do a timing job, do everything - chains, guides, tensioners, phasers, solenoids, and a high volume oil pump. Use OEM Motorcraft for all but the oil pump, get a Melling.

 

Ah, yea. Forgot the part about the type of oil. I used 10w30 Castrol GTX high mileage syn blend. Unfortunately, I used a Fram filter in place of the Motorcraft because they were out.

The timing job is probably more than I care to take on myself, as I've never done timing work before and my hands are full with a home reno, which makes the timing of this ordeal very inconvenient since I need it for hauling. Go figure. :/

 

Edit: Sorry, double post.

 

Fram is the WORST filter you can use. That's a potential cause of the startup rattle, the anti-drainback valve doesn't work.. If you can't find a Motorcraft, get a Purolator or a Wix. I'd change just the filter ASAP and top off the oil.

Timing job will cost you about 2 grand.

 

Fortunately, this is the only time I've put a Fram on this truck, as I have been using Motorcraft since I've owned it. Unfortunately, the startup rattle began before the Fram filter. But I agree with you, I want to go back and put a Motorcraft on. I know the Fram filters are suspect from my days working in the auto part retail industry. After work today, I am going to pick up a can of throttle body cleaner and the Motorcraft filter. The problem I had yesterday was Wal-Mart was the only open store when I was doing the oil change, and they were out of Motorcraft. Autozone, O'reilly's, and Advance were ALL closed. I probably should have just waited until they opened but as previously mentioned, I'm in the middle of a home reno and had to get to work on that as well.

I have my truck lined up for the mechanic on Wednesday. In the meantime I'll clean the throttle body and see if that helps. I think I'm going to go ahead and replace the battery as well since its six to seven years old and has been dragging for a couple of weeks. Maybe a long shot but it needs it anyway.

Thanks for the help. I'll let you know what I or the mechanic find out.

 

Sounds like a plan!

 

Make sure you watch that video on cleaning electronic throttle bodies.

 

You bet. I did watch it and it looks easy enough, aside from the two bolts on the backside that may be a pain, but hopefully not too bad.

Did change the battery out on my lunch break. Cranks much better now. Also noticed the startup rattle is gone (assuming I just noticed this after the oil change). I might not have given it enough time for the computer to relearn anything, but I had to get back to work. Forgot to pick up throttle body cleaner but still plan to do so after work since my main problem still exists.

Off topic: Just saw you're in Joplin. I've been there five times the past two years for work there at the Schaeffler plant. Love me some Hackett Wings and Club 609!

 

Next time you come, have dinner at the Red Onion Cafe. Best restaurant in town.

 

Okay. Went and bought the throttle body cleaner. The Motorcraft filter was out at AutoZone as well. Maybe a shortage in my area. I'll check the other stores in another day or two.

Anyway, got home and removed the throttle body. Dreadfully gunky! (See pic below)

Emptied the whole can of cleaner on this thing. Much, much cleaner now. Reassembled everything. Disconnected the battery again for about five minutes, then reconnected. Turned the key to the accessory position for about a minute before cranking.

Started out pretty rough, then rpms went high for a minute before settling down for another minute. Then the rpms dropped to 350ish and back up around 800. It did this for about five minutes before finally settling around 750 rpm. A drastic improvement.

However, when I put it in gear it makes a horrible rattle sound when I give it gas. Took it around the block and it went away once at a higher rpm but eventually was present with every acceleration, forward and reverse.

But it doesn't do it when it's in park. :/

And perhaps this is another symptom. Before the idle finally settled (before I drove it), I noticed a wet spot from the tailpipe. Backing up from the truck, I noticed another wet spot and drip coming from the catalytic converter, as well as exhaust coming from it, which indicates an exhaust leak. (See pic below) Seems I read this can cause misfires for some reason, but not sure if it can be related to my other problem. What are ya'lls opinions?

Thanks!