2004 f150 xlt 5.4l 3v Timing kit
Just like most 2004 f150 owners, my cam phaser went out. My truck started to shake, run rough, and hardly accelerate. My check engine light came on and started blinking. I could smell fuel and it almost stalled. I had a mechanic read the codes it was throwing and there was a grocery list of them. Final diagnostics, the whole passenger side cylinders were missing and there was a noticeable knock coming for that side phaser. So, its time for a whole timing kit replacement. I have been doing some research online on what kit to buy, and there are soooo many to choose from. I do not what to put in junk, so should I go with all FORD parts? What is everyone else putting in?
Let the fun begin!!! |
Motorcraft timing parts and a Melling oil pump.
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Originally Posted by glc
(Post 5246392)
Motorcraft timing parts and a Melling oil pump.
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The stock oil pump is not powerful enough to provide enough oil pressure at idle to properly operate the phasers.
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well it could be all that or just a VCT solenoid $45
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Motorcraft timing parts and a Melling oil pump. Yes as stated earlier, the stock pump doesn't pump enough oil. |
Could a bad VCT solenoid cause the whole passenger side to be missing? Codes came up that all passenger side was missing, along with a heavy rattle/knock coming from the passenger side cam phaser?
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never herd a cam phaser make a loud knocking noise
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Ok...well I purchased the Ford timing kit, along with the new oil pump and VCT solenoids.
My other question is since I hooked it up and found out the whole passenger side cylinders are missing. does that mean my truck is already out of timing? Im thinking that the pin broke in that phaser, causing it to misfire on those cylinders. So, when i go to change out the phasers with all new parts and i install them just like the sit now, will my engine be incorrectly timed? Like i said before it shakes bad and hardly runs, I have a 4 cyclinder f150. |
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I believe in one of makuloco's videos he explains that the passenger side gets its oil supply last and that is the first side to start making noise.
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yep....I seen that too. But my question is that if I am already missing on all the cylinders on that side, is my motor already out of time? If i install the new timing kit exactly how you are supposed to, will my timing be good, or is it already all messed up?
Lets say my phaser broke, wouldn't the timing be off? |
The video I posted in post #11 tells you how to time the engine. It WILL have to be timed if you remove the chains. Doesn't matter whether it's in time or out of time now.
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I understand that...and sorry for the confusion I have with this. But something is causing all the cylinders on the passenger side to be missing (which is causing the shaking and the loss of power), it must mean that the timing is off. Should I be worried about it being off when I go to replace the timing kit? I mean, if i install the phasers in the exact position they are now and put the chains where they are supposed to be, will everything be ok? Or will it continue to shake and miss because it was before i changed everything?
Once again, sorry if im looking to deep or worrying about nothing, I would just hate to skip something, get it all back together, and nothing is fixed Thanks |
Originally Posted by Green_o17
(Post 5247462)
I understand that...and sorry for the confusion I have with this. But something is causing all the cylinders on the passenger side to be missing (which is causing the shaking and the loss of power), it must mean that the timing is off. Should I be worried about it being off when I go to replace the timing kit? I mean, if i install the phasers in the exact position they are now and put the chains where they are supposed to be, will everything be ok? Or will it continue to shake and miss because it was before i changed everything?
Once again, sorry if im looking to deep or worrying about nothing, I would just hate to skip something, get it all back together, and nothing is fixed Thanks |
Ok...so I have everything apart. The Left and Right side both have the marks on the phasers on top, the keyway at the 11 o'clock position and the dot at the 6 o'clock position (this is how it looked when I took the front cover off). The chain on the passenger side is tight and the driver side is loose (almost touching). Both tenisoners are maxed out, nothing is broken.
Seems like everything is where it should be, so I should be good to go? Install the new phasers with the l and r on top and line up the colored chain links where they need to be correct? I was reading the instructions that came with the phasers and it is really confusing, ford really trying to confuse you. |
If you haven't already, watch some Fordtechmakuloco's videos on how to install them.
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It appears that I have skipped a tooth. I took off both chains and tried putting the new ones on. The drivers side lines up perfectly, the passengers side is about a half tooth off from being where it has to be. Both phasers look good, nothing seems to be broke on them. I do not have the valve spring tool or the cam positioner tool (which are about $130ish). I called my local ford shop and they will time it for $220. (so really only about $100). I think i will go that route, I don't want to, but I do not what to mess anything up, would like this truck for another 10ish years!
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Well...I decided to go with my gut and just do the job. Put all the new parts in and put it all back together. Started it up on Sunday and she purrs like a kitten. Knocking noise is gone and it sounds great. All that worrying for nothing on my part, it was really a easy motor to time. As long as you have the correct tools, you can really only install them one way, and its the right way.
So, all said and done, I have about $1,200 into the job and about 3 1/2 weeks in the job (working on it when able). Sounds like a brand new truck! Also thanks to my dad for doing most of the work, saved a ton of money! |
Good to hear. I'll be contemplating doing the timing job on mine in the next year or so. I don't have any symptoms of failure, but at 150K miles, it's probably a safe bet it needs to be done.
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ok, well maybe i spoke to soon. I have driven my truck about 100 miles since the repair and everything is great, except for one thing. I have no developed a "chatter" or "slap" at startup. It only lasts for about 1 second, its just as its turning over, when it starts, it sounds great. Any ideas on this?
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