A larger transmission oil cooler will also lower the engine temp since it is plumbed in series with the coil in the radiator.

 

Correct, that mat has a habit of coming loose and it forces air to the cooler.

If I where you I would look into a new water pump and a nice set of electric fans. The ones from a 2011 f150 are a perfect fit to the core of your radiator measurements. Going this route with a derele pwm controller when I get time to work the truck back into the car projects. It's a spendy endeavor to go aftermarket fans that are worth anything. Most are junk but pens can be had for under a bill. However if you want to keep your clutch style fan it's time to spring for a new hd fan clutch. I hate them with a passion but they work but at a cost. Above 45 and still having overheating issues it's not the fans at that point. The hd radiator may not be a bad idea at this point as well. 175 is supposed to be the ideal trans temp for this guy from what I can find. 200 and under I wouldn't be concerned personally.

Use neutral instead of park in traffic btw.

Also if you do swap water pumps for any reason don't get one with a stamped impeller, they suck on anything generally I know the oem and gmb have cast ones.

 

OK, I'll look into the mods other than the electric fan. Too much and most of my issues are at speed, not at rest (save the one incident that I distracted this thread with).

Tough to know what the impellers are made of, but it looks like the GMB is affordable at $28 and the Motorcraft is about $74.

The fan clutch has a "Severe Duty" version offered by GMB ($33), Hayden ($39), and Four Seasons ($53).

I'll go ahead an change the belt, Motorcraft JK61031AB for $26.

Radiator is more of a challenge. All I can find anywhere is single core radiators that range between 1" and 1 7/16". Spectra Premium CU2819 is one such option. I found a handful of threads about people contemplating 1 vs 2 core radiators, but no part numbers are ever given. I may put this off until I get more clarity around what I should be dropping in.

 

I installed a "heavy duty" fan clutch on my 86 Monte Carlo SS. It acted like it was completely locked up all of the time. When I accelerated hard the belt would squeal because it couldn't accelerate the fan that quickly. Based on my experience I would not recommend the heavy duty fan clutch.

rockauto has this radiator that is 1 7/16" thick.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1304&jsn=10661

 

Thanks, Roadie. That link is the same Spectra Premium CU2819 that I mentioned above. Though it it is 1 7/16" thick, it is still a single core radiator. I don't know if that makes a difference or not ... not sure if the single core + thicker radiator means heavy duty. As I mentioned, I can find lots and lots of threads here and elsewhere about people contemplating 1 vs 2 core radiators ... and nary a part number ever mentioned. If there are multi-core radiators for my truck, I don't see them anywhere.

Interesting notes about the fan clutch. For the 5.4L, there are three levels: standard duty, heavy duty, and severe duty. I assumed that more is better. Maybe I should forego the severe and pick the middle-ground "heavy duty" version. Obviously, I'll need to do a bit more reading.

Thanks.

 

So the 1-3/8 is the super cool replacement one ran the part numbers to verify mine was. That's what I would put in there

Also the super cool model has more fins for better contact = more cooling. If you look at the impeller pictures you can tell what ones are stamped. Assuming it came with the towing package. Any chance you can use a ir thermometer and check for hot spotting on the radiator? I'm not convinced you don't have a blockage.

I had figured you where going to say nay to the electric fans (not a bad thing just preference) even a new oem clutch might not be a bad thing if your not happy about the hd profiles, but at speed the clutch is a non issue.

 

OK. Thanks. Will change out my water pump, fan clutch, and radiator. At this point, I'm just contemplating Spectra Premium CU2819 or Mishimoto R2819 ... the Mishi is about $50 more expensive. Not sure if it's worth the $50 for the lifetime warranty of Mishimoto.

They look the same to me with the same dimensions. Probably will save the $50.

 

Hey there,
Which of the two did you end up getting and how did things fair for ya? Thanks for the detailed posts! I envy your patience. 🤪

 

I too am experiencing the high temp in traffic, I already have the electric Lincoln Mark VIII fan. New thermostat, So how do I check radiator for failure to cool?

 

My exhaust smells like fuel to the point that it's nauseating. I found a fuel evap line that leads from left side fire wall to the intake area above cylinder three that had severe cracks. (Part# 5L3Z 9D289 A) While there in that i took notice to two irregularities-
Two unshielded cables, blk/wht were snugged together comfortably (grounded) that were a leading from a pigtail on the ignition coil and injector lume to the PCV Tube assembly ( part # 7C3Z-9F695-A). The shielding on both cables is completely missing for a good 3". See pics with awseome red outline. Ford wants $61. Found numerous places online for $37. I wonder if this will help with the oil I'm burning. 2qts in 4000 miles. Black as can be.


The second thing i noticed , and in response to this coolant thread to stay on topic-
I want this grime/gunk/gooey orangish/red-brownish buildup on the upper walls inside of the Coolant Overflow reservoir will to go away after replacing this damaged pcv Assembly. I called Ford today about the sludge. I have never replaced any hoses. Not a single hose in 8 yrs of ownership and 116k miles. The truck has 266k. I want to clean the lines but ford told me to replace them, and why, so after some research i decided that it's what's best. I'll replace the heater hose too.

My truck doesn't overheat. It just sucks in the summer at certain times with the AC. Exhaust has smelled funny for a few years. Gunk has actually been there for years and I'm only now looking into it since I'm in the neighborhood. Ford says it's normal btw. I did my oil and found 2qts to be missing, no oil leaks what so ever. My gas mileage seemed to take a dump recently. That could be me taking advantage of open roads but i can't verify really atm since the chi com virus has me unemployed so ive driven only 4000 miles this year. I recently changed the power control driver module. New fuel filter as of summer 19. after experiencing a handful of failures to start. Never consecutively, and spread out over 2 years, always turning over on second attempt. It happened again after i replaced it last month.

Im really interested in hearing how these import radiators and the guys efan job has gone. I think that by repairing everything I've mentioned here in addition to either an HD Clutch or the '11 F150 eFan that the fuel economy, air conditioning and oil consumption issues will go away. I can only hope.

I have the HD Ford Racing oil pump btw and I'm about to start monitoring coolant and trans temp along with oil temp and pressure. With this HD oil pump and stock guages the needle sits a cm or three to the right of midnight, instead of due north/midnight as it normally would.


Part 9F695 ASSEMBLY Tube is what they called it. You can see the exposed 8 or 10guage copper wires with the missing black and white shielding here. When i found it they were bound together, snuggly. Almost as if there were manually exposed and then physically twisted and left to short to keep a valve or circuit open.





I've only used motorcraft gold per ford. You can see I've scraped some of along the walls







What's in there has a fresh made Peanut butter feel to it. I've read somewhere that it could be a hole sealer of a sort that ford may incorporate into the coolant. I've also read that its from two ingredients that are used in the coolant.. i can't find the forum to better quote the two that were mentioned






There's a tiny bit on the cap. Couldve been from some the was knocked off when gathering a sample.





I have this thick vinyl/cloth type flappy thing that i always thought was for debri deflection from underneath. Is this the air guide for the trans and radiator coolers? I have the gap in front along with what I'm not seeing as blockage after reading this thread.

Fuel evap line was brittle and then a year ago i had a car alarm installed. They, instead of not messing with the molded cables route, mounted it where the hose was diverted with force. It was difficult putting the new one on. i don't want to move the horn and have two useless holes in my firewall from the screws. I wonder how long The three 1" cracks have been there.



Broken fuel evap hose







After reading this thread i wonder how much this bull bar and licence plate have affected things all these years? I've been considering getting a pre runner bumper. Now im not too sure if that would be a smart choice if that air flow is so imperative.

 

That bumper guard certainly impedes airflow - not sure I would be crazy about that - especially on a older vehicle that might have the cooling system performing at a less than optimal level due to age and wear.....

 

If your not exceeding your engine temp by any more than 50degrees your fine my Allison runs around 320 with a 28ft 5thwheel on it and motor is between 195 and 205 I just rolled400000 over no problems