2004 (new Body) 4x4 Lights up, Does not engage front wheels
#1
2004 (new Body) 4x4 Lights up, Does not engage front wheels
I read a half dozen threads on the topic, but haven't found my symptom combination... looking for help, and mechanically capable with tools. Will update with photos for future repeats.
Symptoms:
4x4 had been making a rough vibration for past winter, so I only used 4x4 when necessary. Have not used 4x4 in several months.
Tonight, used 4x4 switch, have indication that the truck is in 4x4 hi; it also showed 4x4 low indicator when switched to 4x4 low (in neutral), however with only 1" of snow on the ground, it was clear that the front end was not engaging.
From what I've read it doesn't seem like it is with the transfer case (indicator lights are working, no CEL).
Can anyone shed some light on a logical order of troubleshooting with these symptoms?
Thanks!
Symptoms:
4x4 had been making a rough vibration for past winter, so I only used 4x4 when necessary. Have not used 4x4 in several months.
Tonight, used 4x4 switch, have indication that the truck is in 4x4 hi; it also showed 4x4 low indicator when switched to 4x4 low (in neutral), however with only 1" of snow on the ground, it was clear that the front end was not engaging.
From what I've read it doesn't seem like it is with the transfer case (indicator lights are working, no CEL).
Can anyone shed some light on a logical order of troubleshooting with these symptoms?
Thanks!
#2
#4
EBC, we have the same article here on this forum. Why are you sending this person somewhere else?
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...then-some.html
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...then-some.html
#5
Kitt,
As you will see if your read through that thread, your Transfer Case is probably shifting just fine. That's why you're seeing the 4Hi & 4Lo lights on the dash.
What is probably not happening is the power from the TC making it all the way to the front wheels. The first thing(s) I would check are everything related to your IWE's. The Solenoid is pretty cheap and was prone to going bad before they changed the design. So if you don't have the "hooded" design or have an original one, just replace it.
If the IWE's themselves have never been changed, it's probably way past time for those bad boys to be replaced. Believe it or not, it's not a bad job and you can do it in your driveway or garage. When I had my 2005 F-150, my IWEs went bad in under 3 years. And don't buy crap aftermarket replacements unless you want to replace them again in a year or two.
I'd also take a close look at all of the vacuum lines and check valves in the system. Remember, your truck is over ten years old and some of this stuff just goes bad / dries out from sitting around as much as from use.
Good luck and tell us what you find!
As you will see if your read through that thread, your Transfer Case is probably shifting just fine. That's why you're seeing the 4Hi & 4Lo lights on the dash.
What is probably not happening is the power from the TC making it all the way to the front wheels. The first thing(s) I would check are everything related to your IWE's. The Solenoid is pretty cheap and was prone to going bad before they changed the design. So if you don't have the "hooded" design or have an original one, just replace it.
If the IWE's themselves have never been changed, it's probably way past time for those bad boys to be replaced. Believe it or not, it's not a bad job and you can do it in your driveway or garage. When I had my 2005 F-150, my IWEs went bad in under 3 years. And don't buy crap aftermarket replacements unless you want to replace them again in a year or two.
I'd also take a close look at all of the vacuum lines and check valves in the system. Remember, your truck is over ten years old and some of this stuff just goes bad / dries out from sitting around as much as from use.
Good luck and tell us what you find!
#6
The first thing that I would do is replace the check valves.If that does not resolve the issue, replace the vacuum actuator. It is located on the firewall and they go bad all the time. The replacement should have a shroud on the top of it. The ones without this cover tend to suck in water and kill the actuator. If the issue persists, it might be a good idea to invest in a cheap vacuum gauge to test the system. The IWE's should unlock at around 7 psi. if they do not disengage at 7 psi or they drop pressure rapidly, they may need replacing.