*UPDATE*

Sorry for the delay on the updates.

Last week I essentially cleaned and re-installed the original Motorcraft coils I removed not too long ago and replaced with cheap Amazon ones since the new plugs have only had the cheap amazon ones on them. I removed and cleaned the rubber boots, springs, and got a needle file and cleaned the contact where the spring touches the coil. I reassembled, put dielectric grease on them, and re-installed them. Later that night it rained exceptionally hard so I did not do a test drive. Just moved it to the other side of the driveway.

Morning after the re-install on my drive to work the computer throws a code (misfire cylinder 7). It is missing far worse than before. It is missing all the time. I babied it to work. After work, I went out switched cylinder 7 coil with cylinder 5 coil to see if the misfire moves.

Later that night, drive home and the misfire is STILL on cylinder 7. At this point I say screw it and tell myself to go to buy coils and 1 spark plug for cylinder 7 just to rule out the plug. Keep in mind these plugs only have 300 miles on them as I replaced them not long ago so I have no idea why it is missing.

Next day, I researched the best price for coils. Now I know I will probably catch some heat for this, but due to AutoZone, and Advance Auto pushing the online ordering that have some pretty good deals. I bought the Accel Super Coils, just because they were $199.99 after the coupons and them price matching. Some F150 owners seem to have great results and some not so great. I'll gamble again. Why not...

While installing the new Accel Coils and the plug on cylinder 7, the plug I take out of cylinder 7 looks awful for only being a week or 2 old. Then I notice a little piece of plastic, about the size of a quarter missing from the wiper cowl support where the hood weather stripping snap on. It is right about cylinder 6 and 7. What had happened was after putting my original motorcraft coils back on, we had the heavy downpour and water leaked from he cowl support and down into cylinder 7, fouling out the plug. This was the first time that this happened. Sealed that hood weather stripping with some silicone until I find a new cowl piece. That part was a complete side track from the main story but did however cause cylinder 7's new misfire. So back to the coils. I replaced all 8. No issues except for the wire plug on coil 4 breaking. Of all the coil wire plugs to break why does it have to be this one. I bought a new pigtail/plug and replaced.

I have to say the idle is much smoother, it is more responsive and it doesn't seem to miss like it did. I will say, it will have take a few more days of driving for me to be sure, but so far so good.

Now on to the transmission... I have not changed the fluid or filter yet due to the rain. Also my friend has a lift at his work, so I am just waiting for him to get access to it. Hopefully sometime this week/weekend. I will post on that later.

Questions:

On cylinder 1, the bolt hole for the coils bolt is somewhat stripped. What should I do about this? Any ideas? Its not stripped like I can pull the bolt out freely, but it doesn't get real snug. Anyone else experience this?

 

Seems everyone is following your lead assuming coils/plugs.. Have you ruled out driveline?? Sloppy output in tranny, worn/loose input at diff and seized or loose u-joints all produce a 'shudder' feel at certain RPM and loads. The vibration caused will be pronounced at certain speeds and will alter under differing loads (with the exception of a bent d-shaft)..

Try a couple of things before you throw out brand new coils and replace them with brand new coils etc.. If it's a miss in the engine at a set RPM/load, you can replicate this by shifting to 2nd, 3rd etc, bringing it up to the RPM this happens at and applying about the same amount of throttle.. Next, take it up to the _speed_ this happens at but in 3rd not OD, apply about the same rate of throttle that causes the issue.

This should tell you if the shudder is actually speed specific or RPM specific. If for sure RPM, keep digging into the engine. If it turns out to be speed specific, dig into drive line instead. Given the drive line has been futzed with twice, you might be surprised to find a perfectly good running motor.

Next, if it is motor, order one of the ELM ODBII tools from China or something local, cost is 1/4 the price of one new coil. Set it up with your laptop or cell if you must, turn on live display of O2 bank 1 #1, O2 bank 2 #1, short term fuel trim for each bank and timing. Drive until you feel the miss/shudder and try to hold it there. If it is actually missing even slightly, you'll see the short term trims move well away from +/- 3%, you'll see the O2's react as well towards rich (higher voltages) and you may see the timing bouncing around more than normal.. This will also show you if only bank 1 or bank 2 is moving around, meaning a miss on one of the cylinders on that side only, or both banks moving together meaning something more related to a vacuum leak etc effecting all cylinders..

My guess in advance of proper diagnostics instead of 'throw those out and buy these' is you'll find it in drive line, but without sitting in your truck, total crap shoot! The computer will tell a story when watching it live and if the miss is minor and nothing is going out of acceptable range, it won't throw codes, but you will see it happen!

Did this a while ago on an older ODB1 car, in shop several times as it would go in/out of lockup at 30mph every second, shop eventually told owner don't drive right at 30. Watching live, everything was normal accept vehicle speed and at 30, was bouncing between 20 and 45 mph. Turned out to be a kinked speedo cable causing a flutter and the ECM was designed to lockup above 30 and unlock below it..

$10 for a chinese ELM327 (usb for laptop or bluetooth for phone), free software and presto, a buddy can sit in passenger seat and see every little change while this is happening. Replace parts that don't work, not parts that might be the cause..

 

Greg-Thanks for the reply. This is exactly the kind of info I am seeking to help narrow what direction I need to go.


Seems everyone is following your lead assuming coils/plugs.. Have you ruled out driveline?? Sloppy output in tranny, worn/loose input at diff and seized or loose u-joints all produce a 'shudder' feel at certain RPM and loads. The vibration caused will be pronounced at certain speeds and will alter under differing loads (with the exception of a bent d-shaft).
Try a couple of things before you throw out brand new coils and replace them with brand new coils etc.. If it's a miss in the engine at a set RPM/load, you can replicate this by shifting to 2nd, 3rd etc, bringing it up to the RPM this happens at and applying about the same amount of throttle.. Next, take it up to the _speed_ this happens at but in 3rd not OD, apply about the same rate of throttle that causes the issues.
This should tell you if the shudder is actually speed specific or RPM specific. If for sure RPM, keep digging into the engine. If it turns out to be speed specific, dig into drive line instead. Given the drive line has been futzed with twice, you might be surprised to find a perfectly good running motor.

Next, if it is motor, order one of the ELM ODBII tools from China or something local, cost is 1/4 the price of one new coil. Set it up with your laptop or cell if you must, turn on live display of O2 bank 1 #1, O2 bank 2 #1, short term fuel trim for each bank and timing. Drive until you feel the miss/shudder and try to hold it there. If it is actually missing even slightly, you'll see the short term trims move well away from +/- 3%, you'll see the O2's react as well towards rich (higher voltages) and you may see the timing bouncing around more than normal.. This will also show you if only bank 1 or bank 2 is moving around, meaning a miss on one of the cylinders on that side only, or both banks moving together meaning something more related to a vacuum leak etc effecting all cylinders.
My guess in advance of proper diagnostics instead of 'throw those out and buy these' is you'll find it in drive line, but without sitting in your truck, total crap shoot! The computer will tell a story when watching it live and if the miss is minor and nothing is going out of acceptable range, it won't throw codes, but you will see it happen!

Did this a while ago on an older ODB1 car, in shop several times as it would go in/out of lockup at 30mph every second, shop eventually told owner don't drive right at 30. Watching live, everything was normal accept vehicle speed and at 30, was bouncing between 20 and 45 mph. Turned out to be a kinked speedo cable causing a flutter and the ECM was designed to lockup above 30 and unlock below it..

$10 for a chinese ELM327 (usb for laptop or bluetooth for phone), free software and presto, a buddy can sit in passenger seat and see every little change while this is happening. Replace parts that don't work, not parts that might be the cause.

Is it possible my driveshaft may need balanced. I've been told that as well.

 

Will try to answer in order
Coils (any coil) can fail partially but typically either work or don't. What guys fail to do with this style of coil is replace the boot only which is the cause of many issues. As they age they can crack, pin hole and mostly just get loose on the plug, any of which will cause miss fire when damp etc with a perfectly good coil and plug.

Don't know the scanner, I know there is options for iPhone so I expect iPad too as long as it's bluetooth.. Mine is a dirt cheap Chinese elm unit running ScanMaster via USB on a laptop. It doesn't do extended ford specific like ABS etc but will real time the mandated OBDII functions like temp, coolant, rpm, trim, O2's, air flow, load etc all live. I've seen a lot of guys like Torque for an app, not sure if available for IOS or just Android, but it works on any bluetooth based adapter and gives real time (and is free)

A bent or unbalanced driveshaft will cause vibration at certain speeds, but regardless of throttle or coast,doesn't match your description. A seized u-joint will cause vibration at a certain speed, but often only under load or only under coast etc. Loose or worn bearings the same, sometimes only coasting in gear, sometimes only part throttle etc.. Typically though, maybe at a lower speed than you're reporting.

The lockup portion of a TC can cause your issue if it's worn. As it sees part throttle it can slip a bit causing a chatter. Normally more throttle will cause more slip and you will see RPM's climb more than just relative to the speed increase. The remainder of the converter (aside from the lockup portion) will produce drastic results at all speeds and especially high throttle at low speeds if it's failed. There's likely a way to disable the lockup portion to rule it out. I know on many Chevy's if just touch the brake pedal just enough to bring on the brake lights, that also shuts off the lockup portion of the converter.

Also an O2 out of range or partially plugged injectors can cause your symtoms due to overly lean (which is harder to fire) but would normally feel more like a bucking, and can do it any speed but usually around the same throttle position. Even plugged fuel filters cause this, but usually also cause the motor to fall flat on its *** at full throttle as not enough fuel can flow for high demands.

 

I had this same problem. Exact same symptoms.

Turned out to be a warped intake manifold.

 

I have this same issue and also when I'm at a stop and start to accelerate the truck starts to shake/vibrate until I sart picking up speed. I'm thinking on replacing the plugs with Motorcraft SP-515's.

I also wanna change tranny oil.

Any input will be nice.

 

What do you guys think on the MSD Ignition Coils?

 

Stay away from MSD and Accel. They make good coils but they don't make good cops.

 

I have a question

What's the difference between ignition coils and COP's?

 

Essentially they do the same job of converting 12v to 65v (I think it's 65)


Coil packs have multiple outputs and mounted usually on the intake manifold. Longer plug wire -> plug
Coil on plugs have on smaller coil directly mounted to the plug. Short boot -> plug

 

Old engines had one coil which is a transformer supplying voltage to all of the spark plugs via a distributor. Modern engines have a coil sitting on top of each plug, coil on plug COP.

 

So these are the MSD COP's?
I think I can get a good deal on 8 of these MSD's, that's why I was asking...