Exhaust manifold video
Exhaust manifold video
My passenger side manifold is leaking upon start up but goes away after a few seconds. I think it actually has a crack and not broken studs.
I've done this procedure to my 01 Screw a few years back but my 07 seems a bit more tricky. I cannot find any videos on this anywhere. Just random conflicting how to's. But nothing beats a good video. The only one I've seen is not very thorough.
Post links if you have seen any. Thanks
I've done this procedure to my 01 Screw a few years back but my 07 seems a bit more tricky. I cannot find any videos on this anywhere. Just random conflicting how to's. But nothing beats a good video. The only one I've seen is not very thorough.
Post links if you have seen any. Thanks
I'm not sure how a crack would disappear after just a few seconds. It would take a minute or two to heat up the cast iron enough to expand and close the crack. Even so, I think I'd just find a replacement manifold or get some shorty headers and be done with it.
That's what I thought to. But there is no carbon residue around any of the exhaust ports common with a leak. I already have a new Dorman manifold on hand. I plan on just cutting the old one off like I did to my 01'. Less chance of breaking any more studs.
Well, I suppose if you want to get a dremmel or Rotozip and cut the nuts you can. I'd at least put a wrench on it after using from Liquid Wrench or acetone/ATF mixture for a bit to let it soak. If it won't budge with moderate pressure then I'd consider cutting them off.
My truck was making the same ticking/exhaust leak noise on start-up and would go away about 90% when it came off high idle,about 30 seconds.Doing just what your describing. When manifold removed found it to be cracked around the last exhaust port,about a three inch crack. Just did this yesterday to our 06 5.4 4x4. pretty straight forward and a pain in the %#$. remove inner fender,remove exhaust to manifold bolts (both sides). also remove the two exhaust mount bolts at crossmember,this allows exhaust to drop away from the manifolds. remove motor mount bolts on pass side. raise motor as high as possible. this allows access to manifold bolts. top four and back two .bolts pretty easy,front bolt not bad,second back lower bolt a pain but doable. on mine nuts and or studs all came loose ok. you can fish manifold out over frame and behind shock tower. As far as a video I think it would be pretty tuff to make, all you would get is someones back leaning over the brake caliper and the frame,and the entire video you would be hearing wrenches banging and four letter plus words-a lot of them.
My truck was making the same ticking/exhaust leak noise on start-up and would go away about 90% when it came off high idle,about 30 seconds.Doing just what your describing. When manifold removed found it to be cracked around the last exhaust port,about a three inch crack. Just did this yesterday to our 06 5.4 4x4. pretty straight forward and a pain in the %#$. remove inner fender,remove exhaust to manifold bolts (both sides). also remove the two exhaust mount bolts at crossmember,this allows exhaust to drop away from the manifolds. remove motor mount bolts on pass side. raise motor as high as possible. this allows access to manifold bolts. top four and back two .bolts pretty easy,front bolt not bad,second back lower bolt a pain but doable. on mine nuts and or studs all came loose ok. you can fish manifold out over frame and behind shock tower. As far as a video I think it would be pretty tuff to make, all you would get is someones back leaning over the brake caliper and the frame,and the entire video you would be hearing wrenches banging and four letter plus words-a lot of them.


