Random Vibration front wheels hot
Random Vibration front wheels hot
I have a 2004 F150 Lariat with 92K on it. Just recently it started doing this weird thing where the steering wheel (feels like its coming from front end) will vibrate at a random speed for a short time then stop and drive normally. I don't drive the truck everyday but its done 3 times the past two times it was driven. Its not consistent, not always at the same speed and appears to come and go at random times. The first time it happened twice on a 100 mile trip but on the way back it didn't do it all and drove smooth as butter. I have had vibration issues before due to cracked rim or on-even wear on tires but that was consistent and this isn't as it comes and goes.
Lugs are tight and that is about all I have investigated so far. It happened again today and my gf said the front tires were very hot after I asked her to check the rears (ebrake) there was also a burning smell from the front end.
Does anyone have any idea what it might be?
Lugs are tight and that is about all I have investigated so far. It happened again today and my gf said the front tires were very hot after I asked her to check the rears (ebrake) there was also a burning smell from the front end.
Does anyone have any idea what it might be?
Is there a link to fixing a stuck caliper?
Thanks man.
Is that all I should do while I am in there? Should I do both of them?
I am still struggling with two of the lug nuts which simply wont come loose even after blasting them with panther ****.
Anyone got a link to a replacement caliper? Would this work?
Amazon.com: Raybestos FRC10910 Professional Grade Remanufactured, Semi-Loaded Disc Brake Caliper: Automotive
Or this one from autozone: http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-t...7_945874_2362/
I am still struggling with two of the lug nuts which simply wont come loose even after blasting them with panther ****.
Anyone got a link to a replacement caliper? Would this work?
Or this one from autozone: http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-t...7_945874_2362/
Last edited by f150dp; Feb 11, 2015 at 06:07 PM.
Check prices at rockauto.com, they have a great selection. I'd recommend you get both, and get them loaded (with new pads and hardware). Inspect the rotors, you may want to get them turned or replace them to do the job right.
X2 on this. And if you don't resurface or replace your rotors, you may end up throwing a good deal of money away. It's always best to bed in fresh pads with either new or resurfaced rotors. Worn rotors and new pads can lead to a real mess sometimes. Considering how simple disk brakes are to do - assuming you can do them yourself - it's well worth buying all new parts for both sides and being done with it.
Trending Topics
X2 on this. And if you don't resurface or replace your rotors, you may end up throwing a good deal of money away. It's always best to bed in fresh pads with either new or resurfaced rotors. Worn rotors and new pads can lead to a real mess sometimes. Considering how simple disk brakes are to do - assuming you can do them yourself - it's well worth buying all new parts for both sides and being done with it.
The single biggest advice I could give you here is to make sure the Bleeder Valves are at the top of each caliper. It's real easy to get the calipers mixed up and put them in backwards / upside down. That'll make proper brake bleeding all but impossible. I'd also suggest getting somebody who's done this to help you.
Telling somebody how to do disk brakes in writing would take a bit. I could do it with my eyes closed - which doesn't help you a bit. There's got to be a You Tube video somewhere that shows how to do it.
The single biggest advice I could give you here is to make sure the Bleeder Valves are at the top of each caliper. It's real easy to get the calipers mixed up and put them in backwards / upside down. That'll make proper brake bleeding all but impossible. I'd also suggest getting somebody who's done this to help you.
The single biggest advice I could give you here is to make sure the Bleeder Valves are at the top of each caliper. It's real easy to get the calipers mixed up and put them in backwards / upside down. That'll make proper brake bleeding all but impossible. I'd also suggest getting somebody who's done this to help you.
Cool, then you shouldn't have any real problems. The Ford disk brake setup is pretty basic and easy to work on. One thing you may want to consider - depending on where you live - is adding a light layer of High Temperature (Copper) Never Seize to the hub surface before you slip the rotors on. If you live where they use road salt, it will make removing your rotors next time around a lot easier.
Cool, then you shouldn't have any real problems. The Ford disk brake setup is pretty basic and easy to work on. One thing you may want to consider - depending on where you live - is adding a light layer of High Temperature (Copper) Never Seize to the hub surface before you slip the rotors on. If you live where they use road salt, it will make removing your rotors next time around a lot easier.
Whats the sequence for bleeding them?
Solid. All done and the brakes are smooth.
In the end I replaced both calipers, front pads and used speed bleeders instead of the OEM ones. Hardest part was breaking loose the lugs and getting the calipers off as they seemed to get hung up on the pads or the pistons weren't retracted far enough.
Cost me roughly $75 all-in and 5 hours of labor which I am ok with when a mechanic wanted to charge me $750.
Thanks everyone for your help.
In the end I replaced both calipers, front pads and used speed bleeders instead of the OEM ones. Hardest part was breaking loose the lugs and getting the calipers off as they seemed to get hung up on the pads or the pistons weren't retracted far enough.
Cost me roughly $75 all-in and 5 hours of labor which I am ok with when a mechanic wanted to charge me $750.

Thanks everyone for your help.
Solid. All done and the brakes are smooth.
In the end I replaced both calipers, front pads and used speed bleeders instead of the OEM ones. Hardest part was breaking loose the lugs and getting the calipers off as they seemed to get hung up on the pads or the pistons weren't retracted far enough.
Cost me roughly $75 all-in and 5 hours of labor which I am ok with when a mechanic wanted to charge me $750.
Thanks everyone for your help.
In the end I replaced both calipers, front pads and used speed bleeders instead of the OEM ones. Hardest part was breaking loose the lugs and getting the calipers off as they seemed to get hung up on the pads or the pistons weren't retracted far enough.
Cost me roughly $75 all-in and 5 hours of labor which I am ok with when a mechanic wanted to charge me $750.

Thanks everyone for your help.





