Spark plug change from hell. Pic inside
Got the call. They got done bore scoping, and found lots of dirt/ debris and were able to blow it all out. Lots of porcelain came out as well. They are now filling the engine with some oil from the heads and hand cranking it to see if there are any binding/ resistance, fingers crossed I can make it out of this without a head pull.
Got the call. They got done bore scoping, and found lots of dirt/ debris and were able to blow it all out. Lots of porcelain came out as well. They are now filling the engine with some oil from the heads and hand cranking it to see if there are any binding/ resistance, fingers crossed I can make it out of this without a head pull.
Before Patrick did the plugs on my 07 i think i Ran 6 bottles of Techron between 2 tank of supreme fuel
I was going to make damn sure those plugs were carbon free as they would get before he took em out..
He did it on a warm engine with a impact and all came out easy.
I was going to make damn sure those plugs were carbon free as they would get before he took em out..He did it on a warm engine with a impact and all came out easy.
Looking at that web site, it would appear that he specializes in the earlier 2 valve modular motors where blowing plugs out of the heads was a big problem. (Actually only a problem from 1997 - 2001.) The 2004 & up 3 valve issues with plugs not wanting to come out is a whole different issue.
3v plug issues were through Mid 2008 MY (engine production dates through 10-8-07)
Last edited by Patman; Jan 2, 2015 at 11:12 PM.
Before Patrick did the plugs on my 07 i think i Ran 6 bottles of Techron between 2 tank of supreme fuel
I was going to make damn sure those plugs were carbon free as they would get before he took em out..
He did it on a warm engine with a impact and all came out easy.
I was going to make damn sure those plugs were carbon free as they would get before he took em out..He did it on a warm engine with a impact and all came out easy.
haven't had a single one break after I went to impact method on all cylinders
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...s-55-56-a.html
haven't had a single one break after I went to impact method on all cylinders
haven't had a single one break after I went to impact method on all cylinders

On a side note, dealer called with the truck ready for pickup. They DID NOT have to remove the heads to get the debris out. Hefty bill though because they charged all the labor to bore scope every cylinder, clean out debris, and they charged me for removal/install of plugs and coils. All said I'm out around $800 for the job. Sucks is that is around what they quoted me for the plug change in the beginning, so if I paid them I would have saved the 12 hours of my labor, oh well.
Lesson learned.

Over the years I have determined that it is actually cheaper to have the dealer do certain types of repairs, since they have the advantage of working on a specific vehicle day-in-and-day-out and learning all the tricks associated with some of these jobs.
I still do my own basic maintenance -- more because I enjoy it than to save money, plus, I feel I do a more conscientious job than most shops would on some of the preventative stuff. However, I have been burned too many times by trying to do the bigger jobs myself or farming them out to non-dealer shops. I have simply come to the conclusion that I save money in the long run by going the dealer route on certain repairs right from the start.
At my age, I am way beyond being too proud to admit that the dealer can do certain types of repairs quicker and more economically than I can do them in my DIY garage.....
Last edited by ddellwo; Jan 5, 2015 at 05:54 PM.
like when a spark plug change was a one hour job and that was because you spent 20 minutes looking for the feeler gauge.
Yeah -- look at the engine compartment of a '60's-era truck with an inline-six and you almost can't believe how easy everything was to work on and get to! It certainly makes you wax nostalgic for a simpler time and age......
This worked for my neighbor when we did his truck. Put the piston at the bottom of the stroke so you have the ability to move the hose around inside the cylinder bore.







