i did a full swap, dual 16" fans total of 6000 cfm. i built a frame assy that mounts on the radiator using the mounts for the shroud. it is a tight fit but worth it i feel, i have never liked using the push through tie mounts that come with the fans just sets you up for future problems in my opinion. the oem motorcraft fan assy on the 2010 moves around 5700 cfm but pulls tons of amp alternator upgrade would be needed both of my fans draw less then 1 oem fan. The aftermarket replacement such as dorman i contacted them they told me that their set up only moves up to 3000 cfm total for both fans.

Also i want to say i was mistaken on the TXV f150 did not start using them until 2009, i am so used to working on the newer trucks it all blends together.

 

I have a sniffer, and while it works well in some situations, dye seems to do the job much better if the leak is in an area you can see. Pretty much anything except for the evaporator.

Regarding your pressures, you can probably add the rest of that can unless you're somewhere unusually cold this time of year. I just snagged the A/C normal pressure charts from the Ford service manual. Use the low-pressure side as your compass for charging, but monitor the high-pressure side to ensure it stays within range based on ambient temperature.







Regarding the THV (Thermostatic Expansion Valve), it's basically an orifice that adjust itself based on the temperature of the refrigerant. However they didn't start using these on the F-150 until 2009. So this does not apply to your 2007. For other's reference, here's a picture of what it looks like.



And as a final bit of information, there is a filter built into the discharge hose that connects from the compressor to the condenser. If you look at the hose near the compressor, you'll see a canister integrated that's about the size of a fuel filter. That filter helps prevent any trash from clogging the orifice tube among other things.

I hope this information has the answers you're looking for.

 

Thanks for the info guys you been really helpful.

I have thought about switching to E-fans but have read some stories about the fan controllers Failing.
I Might have to give it a second thought about installing some.

 

Well, guys I got in the truck last night and it's the same thing a/c compressor short cycling every 6 seconds.

I added some dye to the system last night and looked for leaks after letting it run for 20 minutes and didn't see any leaks
figured the dye need more time so drive the truck to work today and just looked when i got home tonight and still can't find any leaks.

A mechanic friend of mine looked at the truck for me and thinks the a/c compressor is going out because its a little noisy when the clutch is engaged.
Could my compressor be bad and leak with out seeing the dye leaking out.
This is my second compressor the dealer changed the compressor out about 3 years ago when i still had my extended warranty.

Also it only seems to leak to a certain point then stops last time i added 134a was back in january. I guess on my next day off I will be taking it to a A/C shop if I can find one I trust.

Thanks

 

Well, I would think the compressor needs to be on for long enough to circulate the dye wouldn't it?

 

If the input shafts for the compressor is leaking it's really hard to diagnose because the clutch blocks view

 

I added more 134a Freon to the system with the dye and the compressor stood on after that it just leaks out some where after a few days.


Thanks need to have the shop look at it i guess i hope they can find it.

 

At the a/c shop right now guy said it's the Evap core leaking.
Going to change the evap core the dryer/acumlator and the orifice tube $1450.00 out the door.

This sucks but I guess it's better then a new truck with payments.

 

Ouch! but yeah better den a new truck payment..

I wanted to go e-fans too.. got a mkvii fan but can't find any good controllers.. don't want to deal with the a crappy customer service with the dc controllers

 

Update on issue just left the a/c shop guy came back and said he's going to add more dye to the system and fill it back to fords specs he then wants me to come back when it starts short cycling again he said he wants to be sure its the Evap core leaking before i spend the $1450.00.

I saw him use the Sniffer on the vents in the cab and under the dash under the truck bye the hoses but it didn't pick up anything so i guess we will see whats going on.

 

Well, I found the A/C leak it and it is the Evap Core so its back to the shop tomorrow to replace the Evap Core the Receiver Drier/Accumulator and orifice Tube.
Will be picking the truck back on monday (shop is closed on sunday) I asked the guy to save me the parts and will take some pictures will try to up load them when I get the truck back.

Im a little worried about them taking the Dash apart hope nothing goes wrong.

 

Got my truck back today A/C blows nice and cold now looked at the Evap core looked like mold was growing on that thing. I took a pic will try and load it when I home.

 

Check out a Spal controller. I've had good luck with mine. First fan comes on (easy start to keep from spiking elec system) at 50% and only runs as fast as necessary to maintain selected temp. Once it hits 100% the secondary fan kicks on. Modulation keeps the cycling down and maintains a more even temp. The secondary fan comes on with the A/C comp to guarantee cold air if you are stopped. Makes for more even usage of the two fans. The other thing I like is there is a sensor that screws in the water jacket somewhere for the coolant temp. Not like those cheap probes that go into your radiator fins. I've had nothing but trouble with them.

I've run mine Spal controller for a couple years. Only trouble I had was with the inline fuses powering the fans. They were the large maxi fuse type. They overheated and melted, opening the circuit and I got overheated and stuck. Changed out the fuses with auto reset 50 amp circuit breakers and so far no more trouble.

 

So what did you gain by going to the e-fans other than a lot of expense and one overheated engine/melted fuses? Why did you feel that the stock mechanical fan wasn't adequate?

 

It's just adequate is the problem. Stock fan/clutch is crazy heavy and inefficient. Upwards of 40 pounds I bet. Its bulletproof and adequate and cheap, which is why that's what they come with. I wanted something better.

I picked up about 1 MPG when I switched. Quicker warm ups in the winter, too. In fact, the electric fans never come on 7 months/year up here in Alaska. And I don't have to lug around and spool up that anchor of a fan every time I step on the gas.

I was able to gain 3 MPG total on the highway with all my mods. Troyer tunes and electric fans the most help. Magnaflow, ignition, underdrive pulleys, and air intake made the rest of the gains. And REALLY woke up that 5.4.