Hi y'all. I've got a 2004 5.4L screw 4x4 lariat with 117,000 miles on it. I've had it almost three years. I bought it used with 94,000 miles on it. About a year after I got it, it started having problems. I'm not sure if they are related or not or what to do about them.

There is a rattle coming from my engine that's most audible at idle and when coming off acceleration to idle. I'm guessing it's my timing chains slapping around. Which means my cam phasers have gone bad?

Occasionally, becoming more frequently, the engine struggles in a way I can't quite explain. It's not a low rmp, I'm about to stall struggle. It's a I'm not going to behave struggle. It usually happens when returning to idle or just above idle. The engine becomes very irregular. I can see it being a timing issue. It almost feels like the engine is fighting itself. If I give it a little gas it disappears and will idle normally.

I replaced my spark plugs 6 months ago. All but 3 of them broke. Bought the tool, spent the time, vacuumed out the cylinders, installed new plugs. The engine idled very low afterwards (300-400 rpm). Pulled the battery and let sit for a few minutes to reset the computer. That helped a little. It idled around 650 for a couple months, but now it's back down to 500 rpm. Running fuel injector cleaner through it seems to help a little, but the effects never last very long. Isn't a normal idle around 750?

Also, my mpg has dropped. I used to get 13 mpg around town, now I'm getting 11.25 mpg.

I've got a groove worn into my right rear axle (axle bearing failure). Replaced bearing and seal. Axle was too costly at the time. A week later the other bearing seal went out. Replaced that one as well.

My cruise control doesn't work, unless it's raining outside, then it works perfectly.

I'm not sure if I've got tranny problems or not. It drives smooth and shifts fine, but if I manually shift into 1st or 2nd, there are potential problems? Maybe it's just the way the truck is designed. Normally when you shift into 2nd, the transmission will use first and second gear depending on vehicle and engine speed. When I shift into second the truck only uses second gear. Wen I shift into first, you'd think I would have the same low end power available as when I in drive. Nope. If I'm in first, stopped at a light, and start accelerating its sluggish. But then if I shift into drive, the engine will run at full power. Does this make sense? Is this normal?

Every day my truck sounds more and more like a diesel. Which is cool, but not if it's about to die. I took it into ford last year and had them listen to it. They said it was my cam phasers and that they couldn't fix them. They wanted $6500 to put in a new engine. Took it to another shop and they said it was the same problem, but to repair was only $2500. I didn't have the money then, not like I do now either, so I didn't fix anything at the time. I owe just under 4k and can't really afford to replace it with a newer truck, though I'd love to have a raptor.

I'm taking it into another shop on Monday to get their opinion. Maybe I'll try the dealership again to see what they say.

What do y'all say? I'm pretty handy and have a good stock of tools. Some things I may be able to fix myself.

 

For your transmission, if it is started in 2, that is the only gear it will use, it never starts in one then shifts to 2. If started in 1 that is where it will stay. They start in 2 is very useful in slippery conditions.

 

Wow, that is quite a list. Not sure where to start. I would do the regular simple stuff, if not already done. Fuel/air filter, clean the MAF. Clean lube electrical connectors. You might be able to do the cam phasers yourself.

 

So the tranny on the f150 only uses the selected gear? Gotcha. Good to know it's working right.

 

Fuel filter, air filter, maf were all done about a year and a half ago. Probably need to do the maf and air filter again. I will get those on Monday. What electrical connections in particular should I be checking? I've got a tube of dielectric grease. Will that work?

Tell me more about the cam phasers. From what I understand, they are a hydraulic tensioning system, due to the variable timing camshaft. What causes them to fail? Where are they located? What is involved in repairing them?

 

For the low idle, try cleaning the Throttle body. I had that issue and it helped mine. Now I do that once a year and the MAF I clean 2-3 times a year. Also, I'd look at replacing the COP boots as they can crack over time and cause rough idle symptoms.

 

From my understanding, the phasers are a gear and the teeth can become worn. The tensioners are usually what fail on our trucks and they can cause a host of issues. Their usual sign of failing is the chain rattle sound on start up.

 

Mine does the same thing transmission wise as yours so i think it is normal?.. Ive cleaned my air filter and maf and doesnt do any good for that. Ive had the slapping noise for about 40xxx miles and hasnt messed anything up yet and seems to be becoming less noise.. I dont know why but my truck tends to die when i gas it a little in reverse and let off , then when i start back up, it sounds like everything is out of timing and like its about to just blow up... Anyone have an explanation for that? Ha i honestly dont understand these trucks sometimes

 

I'll clean the throttle body when I hit up the maf sensor. I'm assuming it would be easiest to just pull it off to clean? I'm about to show the extend of my knowledge here, but what is a COP boot?

 

Well, heres my story. I had a 2008 f150 screw fx4 with the 5.4l. It developed an intermittent shake and diesel like noise at low idle, especially after backing up that would go away as gas was applied. It also became a little sluggish, having lost some acceleration. I carried it to various shops and no one could figure out what was up. I carried to Ford and they could not get it to duplicate the idle issue but agreed that there was less power than what should be there, but no codes were showing and computer diagnostic read normal, all filters had been changed and throttle body cleaned.
One of the mechanics had an idea and told me it that the 5.4 had a tendency to have oiling problems in the heads and because oil pressure was read at a point lower in the engine, it was possible that the heads could not be getting the needed oil but not get any warning lights or abnormal gauge readings. The cam phasers, which adjust the timing of the cams, is operated on oil pressure and if there was an oiling problem, it would also effect the phasers and could allow one bank of the engine to become slightly out of time with the other. He said the cheapest diagnostic would be to change my oil to a thicker oil, which would increase oil pressure. If this worked, it would confirm the heads were not getting the needed oil flow. I switched from 5w20 that day to 15w40 at his suggestion. Instantly the engine was more responsive and ran quieter with no issues. That lasted for about three weeks when it began to fail beginning with loss of power, knocking, etc. I brought it back in and told the mechanic that his trick worked but now I had more issues. I was never given any other instructions previously, but seeing that I confirmed that there was an oiling issue, I think common sense would have been not to continue to drive it (brilliant me). Long story short, the heads cooked which scored the cam journals and caused two roller tips to seize. the seized tips cut grooves in the cams and, with metal shavings going through the engine, the engine was now gone. my cost was just under 8 grand to replace the engine after fees and taxes. being that I owed 15k on the truck, no loan could be found to cover the engine. I got 10 grand trade toward a new 2013 5.0. there were enough rebates to cover the other 5 grand owed but i ended up financing a new truck at dang near sticker. Don't make the same mistake I did. Verify your heads have proper oil flow and if not, take immediate action.

Good luck

 

Unlike some GM trannies, which makes the feature near useless for slippery conditions.

 

No worries bud:

On the top of the engine there are Coil on plugs (COPS). Our trucks (like most modern vehicles) do not use the wire and distributor system. You'll see these COPS on top of the spark plugs. There is a rubber boot with a spring in the bottom that the COP sits in. The boots should be black except for late 08 5.4's which have brown boots. They just pull right off the COP. They are a really easy fix. Trust me, I had no knowledge of engines a few years ago and I have learned so much since. It's one 10mm bolt if I recall correctly.