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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 10:37 PM
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Angry spark plug help!!!

I'm sure there is a thread on this already but after 2 days of dealing with these dumb a** spark plugs I don't feel like searching. I bough the Lisle tool today and on one of the plugs it did not pull it out, the only thing it did was pull some metal shavings out with it. The biggest problem though is on the back passenger side plugs when I was using the part that pushed the ceramic down it ended up breaking part of the ground of and a piece of the metal is now sitting on top of the piston and I have no clue how to get it out. Also there is 2 plugs that did not break all the way and the threads just spin and the bottom half is still stuck in the head. The last thing I want to do is pull the head. Has anybody else had this happen or have any ideas how to fix this? Should I just call it quits and take it to a shop and have them fix it?
 
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 11:06 PM
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The one that the tool didn't pull out sounds like it wasn't threaded enough. If the tool won't thread into it far enough then you may have to use the method where you glue a metal rod to the tip and then remove it.

The 2 that the are spinning, the jamb nut may have been the only piece to come loose. If so, use some needle nose pliers to remove the nut, and them pry on the spark plug with a long screwdriver to break the porcelain. Then use the lisle tool like normal.

When I changed mine, all 4 that broke ended up leaving a small piece of the ground strap in the cylinder when I pushed the porcelain down. I just left the pieces in and hoped for the best, and they didn't hurt anything.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 01:38 AM
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OK getting ready to attempt this on my 05 and this post has me concerned....how often does this happen on these changes?

Big Tuna, did the above method work on your truck?

Thanks
 
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 11:35 AM
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Smile good news

I just spoke with the the tech from Lisle and he said that the ground electrode did not actually break off inside the cylinder. He said that if you push the ceramic back into the piece that gets stuck in the head and bend the broken park of the electrode back it will line up perfectly with where it broke. As far as the piece that's stuck in the back the tech told me in need to use the pusher tool again and try the extractor tool again. This makes me feel a lot better. Here is the you tube video he told me to watch
 

Last edited by Big Tuna; Oct 3, 2013 at 11:45 AM.
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 12:23 PM
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Thanks for your efforts. This gives me more hope that before. My '05 F150 supcab has 51500 miles and I am wondering when I should do this. I plan on keeping this truck until it grows old or nickel dimes me to death. How many miles are on your motor ? I would think at my mileage there is less chance of breakage ? Are you replacing the plugs with the same crap Ford used ? Thus relying on anti seize to effectively keep them from freezing. At 20k miles,I called Ford while my truck was still under factory warranty and asked for a plug change only quote. "500 $, and if we break one we will call you and tell how much more we want " This was 2007, and things have improved, but wtf ?

Thanks for your info
Rock
 
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Rock Ford
Thanks for your efforts. This gives me more hope that before. My '05 F150 supcab has 51500 miles and I am wondering when I should do this. I plan on keeping this truck until it grows old or nickel dimes me to death. How many miles are on your motor ? I would think at my mileage there is less chance of breakage ? Are you replacing the plugs with the same crap Ford used ? Thus relying on anti seize to effectively keep them from freezing. At 20k miles,I called Ford while my truck was still under factory warranty and asked for a plug change only quote. "500 $, and if we break one we will call you and tell how much more we want " This was 2007, and things have improved, but wtf ?

Thanks for your info
Rock
Ford recommends that you change them at 60k, but the sooner you change them, the less chance you have of breaking any. Run techron through the truck before you change them, and replace with Motorcraft SP515s with nickel antisieze on the shank.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by atr04screw
Ford recommends that you change them at 60k, but the sooner you change them, the less chance you have of breaking any. Run techron through the truck before you change them, and replace with Motorcraft SP515s with nickel antisieze on the shank.
yep....
 
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 03:57 PM
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I got all but one plug out, and of coarse it has to be one of the back plugs. After getting the advice from Lisle I did what he said it it still didn't work. Now they tech said I need to grind the first 2 threads off the extraction tool and the machined part above the threads need to be ground down to 30 thousands. Then I need to clean the tool and the broken piece with carb cleaner. After that I need to thread the extraction tool in with red locktite and let it sit over night. What a pain in the a**
 
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 07:56 PM
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Thanks atr04screw for the plug info. I called two local Ford dealers, one was 675 $ labor only, the other was 500 $ unless one breaks, then its, oh about 100 $ extra for each effing plug that breaks. So, it is still a DIY job for my money. It is not my daily driver, mechanical skills are probably above average, esp if you count every driver on the road. good luck B Tuna, I will be watching your efforts. I have never been crazy about doing this, but if I want to keep the truck, and I DO, as I really like it, its got to happen, seemingly pretty soon.....
 
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Rock Ford
Thanks atr04screw for the plug info. I called two local Ford dealers, one was 675 $ labor only, the other was 500 $ unless one breaks, then its, oh about 100 $ extra for each effing plug that breaks. So, it is still a DIY job for my money. It is not my daily driver, mechanical skills are probably above average, esp if you count every driver on the road. good luck B Tuna, I will be watching your efforts. I have never been crazy about doing this, but if I want to keep the truck, and I DO, as I really like it, its got to happen, seemingly pretty soon.....
Good luck. With only 51000 miles, it should go pretty smooth. Definitely not a $500+ job.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2013 | 12:22 PM
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Thanks, most likely something I will do a little later in the year, there may be a few other preventive things I should do also, in High school, it was nothing to pull a motor on friday and drive by monday. Yes that was late 70's, I am going to grow a tree to park the F150 under and plan for a little down time. If it goes smoothly, and it should, even better... I sure wish I knew of a competent , local independent mechanic. You ask any of them and there eyes roll back, $$ re-appear and they say it is the most difficult fricking job they have ever done, this is what creates doubt in my mind, gotta be a load of BS in there... sorry to ramble..
 
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Old Oct 4, 2013 | 12:28 PM
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I had worse case scenario, the porcelin pusher went too far down, broke the ground strap off on one side, it swung around and hooked the side of the head. We ended up pulling the head off the truck in my driveway on that truck, because the lisle tool did more damage then help.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2013 | 01:28 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Big Tuna
I got all but one plug out, and of coarse it has to be one of the back plugs. After getting the advice from Lisle I did what he said it it still didn't work. Now they tech said I need to grind the first 2 threads off the extraction tool and the machined part above the threads need to be ground down to 30 thousands. Then I need to clean the tool and the broken piece with carb cleaner. After that I need to thread the extraction tool in with red locktite and let it sit over night. What a pain in the a**

Sorry to hear this Big Tuna, did you end up grinding the tool down???
 
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