I know that there are a lot of posts on daytime running lights but I can't seem to find one that covers the 2006 F150. If anyone can contact me and tell me how to do it on my truck, I would really appreciate it. I would like to have the headlights as DRL but I would consider just the fog lights. My truck has the auto headlights and the headlight switch that has the pull out fog light switch. Thank you for any help that you can give me.

Joe White

 

Order the spaghetti generic wiring autolamp/DRL kit and the resistor, respectively.

Ford Part Number F6SZ-13B218-AA
Ford Part Number XL3Z-14A601-AA

Actually, on a 2006, you may need a different resistor (a good parts guy [cross fingers?] will match you up) and your truck dash harness is probably colored differently. No problem. The instructions lay out your colors, which I assume they updated, since my instructions only have 04-05 F150s listed. It wasn't until 2008 that you could just turn the function on in the GEM via the right computer.

Kit wire color -- Your (04-07?) truck
Constant 12v (Red)-- Light Green-Purple (Ignition harness)
Switch 12v (Red-Green)-- Blue-Light Green (Ignition harness)
Low Beams (Red-Black or Grey-Red)-- Red-Black (Multi-function switch harness)
Parking Lamps (Brown)-- Brown (Main light switch)

Ground (Black)--You know how this works by now. Secure it first and somewhere snugly.
Parking Brake (Purple-White)--Does not work on my truck. Oh well. Listed as optional. I concur.

Follow me to this thread and adapt as needed:

https://www.f150online.com/forums/el...ng-lights.html

From this:


To this:

 

AlfredB18,
I was hoping to find this mod on a 2006 truck. Also, I am not much in electrial know how and the spaghetti wiring seems a little much for me. Looks like you did a great job but I need something a bit more plug and play, if there is such a thing.

There has to be someone who has done this mod on a 2006 F150. Please help. Thanks.

 

AFAIK sir, there is no such thing for those later trucks. It's not that bad to where I should have had the kit laying around a couple of years before doing it myself. If not you, order the kit and let someone else crimp a handful of wires together. It's an hour job once the wires are found.

I don't even believe the 06 models use a resistor and from my experience, nobody has those underdash relays, assuming your model even uses that, too.

 

heres some, probably not what you want maybe but looks alright
http://www.gorecon.com/product.php?p...yle-Clear-Lens

 

The 2006 - 2008 is a bit of a different setup.

Need to order :
DRL resistor
DRL relay
DRL enable relay
- The 2 relays should be standard relays that you can get at auto parts store, just need to look them up at the parts counter.

In the Aux relay box ( in the engine compartment - driver's side fender by the air intake ) you need to check for :

Fuse #40 ( cab fuse panel ) to pin #3 of the DRL enable relay socket for + VDC ( hot all the time ). This is the white w/ red stripe wire.
- Install fuse and check to the ground next to it
Fuse # 14 ( cab fuse panel ) to pin #2 of the DRL enable relay socket for +VDC ( hot in run position ). This is the light blue w/ pink stripe wire.
Pin #1 in the DRL enable relay socket needs to be grounded. This is the black wire.
Pin # 5 in the DRL enable socket goes to pin #3 of the DRL relay socket ( same aux fuse box ). This is a red w/ black stripe wire.

The main headlamp switch, pin #6 ( red w/ black stripe wire to the cab fuse panel ) needs to be tapped for the load resistor.
- If memory serves me correctly, this is on the front support panel by the driver side headlamp, behind the rubber cover on the by the headlamp.
The other side of the load resistor is to the DRL relay pin #4.

You will need to check the wiring to make sure all of it is there, before purchasing the relays and the load resistor.

If it is not there, if you want the low beams to be the DRLs, you will need to add all of this.

If you do not want to add all of this, best bet is to get an aftermarket DRL kit like the one posted about.

BTW : You can get Phillips DRL kits on amazon. There is a 5W and a 8W version. 5W Phillips kit is 75.00 and the 8W kit shows now as 140.00 with a 50.00 rebate; total price is 90.00.
This is the closest thing to a PnP for DRL, has the info on what to splice to, so they run when the engine is on and dim when the parking lamps / headlamps are on.

Sorry I don't troll the 2004-2008 forum that much, missed this thread when you posted it.

 

sscully,
Thank you for your reply. I don't know if I have what you asked about so I am sending a picture of the Aux box under my hood on the drivers side. I don't know if I can send it here or not, but I will send it in a E-mail if I have to.
If I don't have the wiring for headlight as DRL could you tell me how to wire just the fog lights as drl? I saw a post about it but can't find the wire (color)that feeds the input side of my fog light switch. Do you have a wiring diagram that would show me the correct wire? Thank you again for your help.

Joe White

 

I can't tell anything with a picture.
If you are checking for the wiring to be complete you would need to meter all the wires above and make sure they are in place.

The "input" for the fog lamps is the Fuse #6, which also feeds the parking lamps and the instrument illumination circuit. If you wire this to a hot in run position, the parking lamps & instrument illumination would be on any time the key is in the run position, and the only time the fog lamps would be on, is when the **** was pulled out.

The only way to wire the fog lamps as DRL is to remove them from the factory wiring, install a new relay for them and have the coil on the relay triggered by a hot in run position fuse.

 

SSCULLY,
How about this?
If I could locate the wire in the 10 pin connector at the headlight/fog light switch that provides power to the input side of the fog light switch and cut it.
Connect the side that goes to the connector ( I would have to connect to the input side so that the foglight switch will still work) with a wire that is controlled by the ignition switch. Wouldn't the fog light switch still control the fog lights as long as the ignition switch is on? If this will work could you tell me what wire (color)in the 10 pin connector provides power to the fog light switch now? Thank you again for your help.

Joe

 

It is Tan w/ White Stripe wire on pin #10.

Keep in mind, this is also the +VDC supply for parking lamps and the instrument illumination circuit, not just the fog lamp switch.
If you do this, make sure you are after the splice in the circuit ( should be away from the switch ), and tape the end of the wire you are not using. The splice routes to the power distribution to another item.

You will need to install a relay with a fused connection to the battery and the Tan w/ White Stripe wire is on the other side of the normally open contacts on the relay. The relay coil that is triggered by the hot in run position circuit you select, to use for the hot in run position.
- This is a 15A circuit, you don't want to random add this load to another circuit in the truck and it is 50% too large to use an Add-a-Fuse.

 

http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/i...ng_Lights.html

This tells you "how to" utilize daytime running lights cheap, heads and fogs

 

SSCULLY,
I follow you up to the relay. Do you have a diagram of what I need to do as far as wiring the relay. Also, can you give me a wire or fuse that is hot with the switch on that is relatively easy to get to?

Joe

 

SSCULLY,
Since I didn't know how to wire the relay I decided to try this today to see if I could turn the fog lights on with the fog light switch: I cut the tan wire with the white stripe on it about 2 inches from the connector. I then ran a wire that is hot with the switch on to the wire that I cut going into the connector. The fog lights will NOT come on. Am I too close to the connector? When you say "after the splice in the circuit" do you mean to cut the wire between the splice and the connector or before the splice? If you mean before the splice then I have to travel back down the bundle of wires away from the connector until I find it. Thanks again for your help.

Joe White

 

This is a generic example of a relay install.



The add-a-fuse in the run position is valid for you use case ( you need hot in run only, not run / accy ).

the fused connection to the battery to terminal #30 is what you need.
The fuse needs to be as close to the battery as you can get it ( < 6" ).

The red wire to the "device" from terminal #87 is what you would wire to Tan w/ White Stripe wire on pin #10.

** Keep in mind, this is also the +VDC supply for parking lamps and the instrument illumination circuit, not just the fog lamp switch.

 

Hot with what switch on ?

You should not be doing random plug and try with this, you are adding quite a bit of load to an existing circuit doing this.
- At the very least you would blow the fuse, worst case melted wiring.


Which connector did you cut the wire in ?
- It should be the 10 pin connector, not the 6 pin connector.

The Tan w/ White Stripe wire on pin #10 is on the end of the connector, across the face is a brown wire, and next to pin #10, Pin #9 is a white w/ black stripe wire.

If you cut the correct wire, the parking lamps and the instrumentation illumination also do not work.
- BTW what did you random connect the Tan w/ White stripe wire to ?