Do I really need to upgrade?
Do I really need to upgrade?
Hey folks. I recently bought a tow behind toyhauler. I have an 04 F150 FX4 5.4 Triton (gas) automatic.
I have towed the trailer to Millville NJ from the Williamsport PA area and it seemed to be ok to me. I added the electric brake unit to the truck, I have a weight distribution hitch and I ran the whole way out in Drive without the OD on. I heard that is hard on the transmission with it engaged.
I have a few friends that say I need to upgrade as the trailer is too much for the truck. I believe the towing capacity of the truck is 9200 pounds and the loaded weight of the TH is 7800 pounds with 700 pounds of bikes and some gear/food for a 2 day weekend.
http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/...#ixzz2Ho7hADii
I thought the FX4 had a beefier suspension than the standard F150 and it also has the transmission cooler/towing package upgrades.
Is this fine for towing this trailer or am I beating the truck? Could I get away with swapping out stiffer suspension or adding something to the existing suspension? The truck seems to sit level under load and I didn't notice any steering issues at speed in corners.
Is there really that big of a difference between the 5.4 and the 6.0 engine? Is a diesel really required for this? I only use the truck infrequently as it's not a daily commuter.
Thanks for your help and experienced insight.
-BD
I have towed the trailer to Millville NJ from the Williamsport PA area and it seemed to be ok to me. I added the electric brake unit to the truck, I have a weight distribution hitch and I ran the whole way out in Drive without the OD on. I heard that is hard on the transmission with it engaged.
I have a few friends that say I need to upgrade as the trailer is too much for the truck. I believe the towing capacity of the truck is 9200 pounds and the loaded weight of the TH is 7800 pounds with 700 pounds of bikes and some gear/food for a 2 day weekend.
http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/...#ixzz2Ho7hADii
I thought the FX4 had a beefier suspension than the standard F150 and it also has the transmission cooler/towing package upgrades.
Is this fine for towing this trailer or am I beating the truck? Could I get away with swapping out stiffer suspension or adding something to the existing suspension? The truck seems to sit level under load and I didn't notice any steering issues at speed in corners.
Is there really that big of a difference between the 5.4 and the 6.0 engine? Is a diesel really required for this? I only use the truck infrequently as it's not a daily commuter.
Thanks for your help and experienced insight.
-BD
Next time you load everything up, go find a truck stop with a CAT scale, fill the gas tank, pay your 10 bucks, and go run the rig over the scales. You will get a weight slip with 3 weights - truck front axle, truck rear axle, and trailer axles. Add up the front and rear truck axle weights and they should not exceed the GVWR rating on the door jamb sticker. If they do, if you want to remain legal, go buy a F-250. Doesn't have to be diesel but I think I'd want something stronger than a 5.4. The gas V-10 (2010 and earlier) tows like a locomotive and the 2011+ 6.2 is a very capable towing engine.
Next time you load everything up, go find a truck stop with a CAT scale, fill the gas tank, pay your 10 bucks, and go run the rig over the scales. You will get a weight slip with 3 weights - truck front axle, truck rear axle, and trailer axles. Add up the front and rear truck axle weights and they should not exceed the GVWR rating on the door jamb sticker. If they do, if you want to remain legal, go buy a F-250. Doesn't have to be diesel but I think I'd want something stronger than a 5.4. The gas V-10 (2010 and earlier) tows like a locomotive and the 2011+ 6.2 is a very capable towing engine.
Thanks
I don't think you should go get a new truck if you don't use it often. A couple things like a transmission cooler, airbags for suspension, lower gear ratio, and a programmer would be all you'd need and it would make a world of difference for your truck. Would save you a whole lot of money to do that then get a new truck.
I don't think you should go get a new truck if you don't use it often. A couple things like a transmission cooler, airbags for suspension, lower gear ratio, and a programmer would be all you'd need and it would make a world of difference for your truck. Would save you a whole lot of money to do that then get a new truck.
Last edited by Bad-Dog; May 11, 2013 at 10:15 AM.
A programmer does a lot. You can change shift outs and take the throttle lag out along with a lot more things. It's best to check out a tuner like 5startuning.com You can buy a programmer with custom tunes for towing and daily driving. It really wakes up some of that hidden power in our trucks.
I don't think you should go get a new truck if you don't use it often. A couple things like a transmission cooler, airbags for suspension, lower gear ratio, and a programmer would be all you'd need and it would make a world of difference for your truck. Would save you a whole lot of money to do that then get a new truck.
If the trailer grosses out at 7800#, it will most likely be within limits with a reasonably empty truck. If you start loading the truck down with passengers and cargo then you have to be concerned about GVWR. You will always run out of payload capacity before you reach the max tow rating.
Back to the original question:
I have a few friends that say I need to upgrade as the trailer is too much for the truck.
Sure - "upgrades" will make for a better tow. However, the cost is going to add up fast. Gears and a programmer will be over 2 grand. If it's riding level with the WD hitch, I don't know if airbags are worth it unless it feels sloppy the way it is. If it needs new tires, then you should get LT-rated tires - preferably load range "E" - but those can kill the unloaded ride. You do need to keep the transmission fluid changed, and a top quality synthetic fluid such as Amsoil will help. No matter what you do, your towing gas mileage will probably be down in the single digits.
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I have a 25' TT and it tows fine....as a matter of fact I have put my Vmax motorcycle in the bed and still fine. Like was said, check weights for sure. My 2004 FX4 has the "tow package" which has the beefier suspension and trans cooler as well as larger alternator. I would look into the Hensley Arrow hitch. A lot of money, but unbelievable as far as how it handles. Semi's passing me are hardly noticed if at all. Also as mentioned, if only doing it a few times a year and not very far consider that before spending big bucks on a new tow vehicle. Where did you get the Trailer? Have fun and be safe.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...ax-trailer.jpg
https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...ax-trailer.jpg
Last edited by jims94vmx; May 11, 2013 at 12:08 PM. Reason: putting in pic
Thanks for all the feedback.
I'm running Nitto Grappler - LT 265/70R17 M+S tires. The TH is an 2005 Sportsmen M-24. 27'X8'5"
I was running 40lbs in the front and 45 in the rear. I wasn't really sure what to set the air pressure at unloaded and with the TH attached so I did a best guess. If you have different pound suggestions I'm open to try them, This is my first FS truck so it's still new territory to me.
I also picked up a proportional Primus IQ Electronic Brake Controller for 1 to 3 Axle Trailers. It was easy to setup and calibrate.
Also some extended mirrors, but they don't really figure into the discussion.
I'm currently using a hitch from http://www.equalizerhitch.com/
I'm running Nitto Grappler - LT 265/70R17 M+S tires. The TH is an 2005 Sportsmen M-24. 27'X8'5"
I was running 40lbs in the front and 45 in the rear. I wasn't really sure what to set the air pressure at unloaded and with the TH attached so I did a best guess. If you have different pound suggestions I'm open to try them, This is my first FS truck so it's still new territory to me.
I also picked up a proportional Primus IQ Electronic Brake Controller for 1 to 3 Axle Trailers. It was easy to setup and calibrate.
Also some extended mirrors, but they don't really figure into the discussion.

I'm currently using a hitch from http://www.equalizerhitch.com/
If the weight is under GVWR and I'm not experiencing any sway or floating steering issues, I'm taking it from what you all are saying is that I should be good to go with what I have. I love my truck and the color. Not many around. Wasn't really looking to get ride of her just yet.
Thanks for all the feedback.
I'm running Nitto Grappler - LT 265/70R17 M+S tires. The TH is an 2005 Sportsmen M-24. 27'X8'5"
I was running 40lbs in the front and 45 in the rear. I wasn't really sure what to set the air pressure at unloaded and with the TH attached so I did a best guess. If you have different pound suggestions I'm open to try them, This is my first FS truck so it's still new territory to me.
I'm running Nitto Grappler - LT 265/70R17 M+S tires. The TH is an 2005 Sportsmen M-24. 27'X8'5"
I was running 40lbs in the front and 45 in the rear. I wasn't really sure what to set the air pressure at unloaded and with the TH attached so I did a best guess. If you have different pound suggestions I'm open to try them, This is my first FS truck so it's still new territory to me.
If those are LR E tires with a max of 80, then you are under inflated, even running empty. Post back with the max pressure and max weight at max pressure so I can recommend a good pressure for you. Unfortunately not knowing which Grappler tire you have, I cannot look on the Nitto web site for the info.
Last edited by Bad-Dog; May 11, 2013 at 02:19 PM.
Sadly, I've taken the truck to 2 diff garages for oil changes, inspections etc and asked them to check tire pressures etc when it was there. Cam back both times with between 32 and 35 pounds. So thanks for offering to help me get this right.
If the max is 80, then the minimum you should be running empty is 45. When towing, you should be running at 50 -55psi, maybe as high as 60.
Unfortunately many places look at the door sticker rather than what tire is being run on the vehicle. Each different load range tire will have a different max pressure and a different recommended pressure for it's use on that particular vehicle. 35 would be right for a P series tire, probably what came original on the truck.
To be honest, you are lucky that the tires are strong enough that you haven't had a blowout. Running too low causes heat in the tire which will cause problems including blow outs or tread separation.
Unfortunately many places look at the door sticker rather than what tire is being run on the vehicle. Each different load range tire will have a different max pressure and a different recommended pressure for it's use on that particular vehicle. 35 would be right for a P series tire, probably what came original on the truck.
To be honest, you are lucky that the tires are strong enough that you haven't had a blowout. Running too low causes heat in the tire which will cause problems including blow outs or tread separation.
Last edited by kingfish51; May 11, 2013 at 02:42 PM.
If the max is 80, then the minimum you should be running empty is 45. When towing, you should be running at 50 -55psi, maybe as high as 60.
Unfortunately many places look at the door sticker rather than what tire is being run on the vehicle. Each different load range tire will have a different max pressure and a different recommended pressure for it's use on that particular vehicle. 35 would be right for a P series tire, probably what came original on the truck.
To be honest, you are lucky that the tires are strong enough that you haven't had a blowout. Running too low causes heat in the tire which will cause problems including blow outs or tread separation.
Unfortunately many places look at the door sticker rather than what tire is being run on the vehicle. Each different load range tire will have a different max pressure and a different recommended pressure for it's use on that particular vehicle. 35 would be right for a P series tire, probably what came original on the truck.
To be honest, you are lucky that the tires are strong enough that you haven't had a blowout. Running too low causes heat in the tire which will cause problems including blow outs or tread separation.





