Need Help with Plugs and COPS
Need Help with Plugs and COPS
OK, so I have been having a misfire that has been gradually worsening over the past few months. It occurs when the engine is warm and I am at low RPM and give it some gas. Not enough to get it to downshift. Feels like a pop and truck loses power on each miss. I am assuming the high load is causing some of the COPs to fail. Actually, it gets way worse in the rain. Also, as of late, if i go WOT you can just feel it miss and the truck definately feels slower than it was before this started. Whats weird is when it is cold it runs ok. No codes though. I cleaned tha MAF and that seemed to help a little making it smoother at idle, but not much else. I want to replace the plugs and COPs, but I can't find the right part number for each item to use. I searched the forums and elseware, but no luck, all the info seems vague to me. Truck is an 07 FX4 4x4 5.4 flex fuel auto at 94000 miles. What is the correct part number for the plugs and for the coils? I have the plugs narrowed to sp507 or sp515 but i cant tell the difference in them. As for coils, the dg508 or dg511. The info I have found all seems to contradict eachother, and I want to order the right stuff the first time. Also, should I replace the fuel filter as well, could it be causing the issue. I am going to order the Lisle tool, and get the plugs and COPs off ebay, I just don't want ot get half way through the job and realize the parts are wrong and be stranded... Can someone give me a definitive answer on the plug and COP part numbers?
I have a 2006 F150 5.4l Vin Code 5 Engine and I used the following parts;
Spark Plugs: Motorcraft SP515
COPS: Borg Warner E508
Coil Boots: Borg Warner SPB150
We have had several of these trucks and I used the same part numbers on all of them.
On my personal truck I replaced the plugs and cops at about 95k and the plugs again at about 185k. The COPS have a lifetime warranty. I haven't had any go bad on my truck but I did replace one on another truck.
I got everything from O'reilly's. They take good care of me and so far have always had everything in stock. They also have a broken plug remover you can borrow if needed.
I have changed seven or eight sets of spark plugs in these engines so far and I have not broken a plug yet. My truck is the last one and it has a new set in it so I doubt I ever change any again.
Oh make sure you have the correct spark plug socket. O'reillys had a couple of different ones back when first did mine. The better one is magnetic but they were out of it at the time so I bought a friction fit one for something like four dollars. It has always done the job.
The day before I blow all the mud/dirt out of the holes where the coil boots are (mine collects a lot) and then shoot a bunch of penetrating oil in with the plugs. The next day I blow out the oil so it doesn't run into the engine when I take the plugs out. Then I just slowly turn out the old plugs, if the are hard or are making a lot of noise I will turn them in and out to keep them moving smoothly.
I know they say to never use anti-seize but I started out using it and I have on every set I have put in. I torque the plugs to 28 ftlbs and call it a day. It's not near as bad as some people make it out to be. You can't really see what you are doing on most of them once you get your hands in there so make sure you look at each one well before you start working on it and make sure everything is plugged in and the cop bolt is in properly before moving on to the next one.
Spark Plugs: Motorcraft SP515
COPS: Borg Warner E508
Coil Boots: Borg Warner SPB150
We have had several of these trucks and I used the same part numbers on all of them.
On my personal truck I replaced the plugs and cops at about 95k and the plugs again at about 185k. The COPS have a lifetime warranty. I haven't had any go bad on my truck but I did replace one on another truck.
I got everything from O'reilly's. They take good care of me and so far have always had everything in stock. They also have a broken plug remover you can borrow if needed.
I have changed seven or eight sets of spark plugs in these engines so far and I have not broken a plug yet. My truck is the last one and it has a new set in it so I doubt I ever change any again.
Oh make sure you have the correct spark plug socket. O'reillys had a couple of different ones back when first did mine. The better one is magnetic but they were out of it at the time so I bought a friction fit one for something like four dollars. It has always done the job.
The day before I blow all the mud/dirt out of the holes where the coil boots are (mine collects a lot) and then shoot a bunch of penetrating oil in with the plugs. The next day I blow out the oil so it doesn't run into the engine when I take the plugs out. Then I just slowly turn out the old plugs, if the are hard or are making a lot of noise I will turn them in and out to keep them moving smoothly.
I know they say to never use anti-seize but I started out using it and I have on every set I have put in. I torque the plugs to 28 ftlbs and call it a day. It's not near as bad as some people make it out to be. You can't really see what you are doing on most of them once you get your hands in there so make sure you look at each one well before you start working on it and make sure everything is plugged in and the cop bolt is in properly before moving on to the next one.
I have a 2006 F150 5.4l Vin Code 5 Engine and I used the following parts;
Spark Plugs: Motorcraft SP515
COPS: Borg Warner E508
Coil Boots: Borg Warner SPB150
We have had several of these trucks and I used the same part numbers on all of them.
On my personal truck I replaced the plugs and cops at about 95k and the plugs again at about 185k. The COPS have a lifetime warranty. I haven't had any go bad on my truck but I did replace one on another truck.
I got everything from O'reilly's. They take good care of me and so far have always had everything in stock. They also have a broken plug remover you can borrow if needed.
I have changed seven or eight sets of spark plugs in these engines so far and I have not broken a plug yet. My truck is the last one and it has a new set in it so I doubt I ever change any again.
Oh make sure you have the correct spark plug socket. O'reillys had a couple of different ones back when first did mine. The better one is magnetic but they were out of it at the time so I bought a friction fit one for something like four dollars. It has always done the job.
The day before I blow all the mud/dirt out of the holes where the coil boots are (mine collects a lot) and then shoot a bunch of penetrating oil in with the plugs. The next day I blow out the oil so it doesn't run into the engine when I take the plugs out. Then I just slowly turn out the old plugs, if the are hard or are making a lot of noise I will turn them in and out to keep them moving smoothly.
I know they say to never use anti-seize but I started out using it and I have on every set I have put in. I torque the plugs to 28 ftlbs and call it a day. It's not near as bad as some people make it out to be. You can't really see what you are doing on most of them once you get your hands in there so make sure you look at each one well before you start working on it and make sure everything is plugged in and the cop bolt is in properly before moving on to the next one.
Spark Plugs: Motorcraft SP515
COPS: Borg Warner E508
Coil Boots: Borg Warner SPB150
We have had several of these trucks and I used the same part numbers on all of them.
On my personal truck I replaced the plugs and cops at about 95k and the plugs again at about 185k. The COPS have a lifetime warranty. I haven't had any go bad on my truck but I did replace one on another truck.
I got everything from O'reilly's. They take good care of me and so far have always had everything in stock. They also have a broken plug remover you can borrow if needed.
I have changed seven or eight sets of spark plugs in these engines so far and I have not broken a plug yet. My truck is the last one and it has a new set in it so I doubt I ever change any again.
Oh make sure you have the correct spark plug socket. O'reillys had a couple of different ones back when first did mine. The better one is magnetic but they were out of it at the time so I bought a friction fit one for something like four dollars. It has always done the job.
The day before I blow all the mud/dirt out of the holes where the coil boots are (mine collects a lot) and then shoot a bunch of penetrating oil in with the plugs. The next day I blow out the oil so it doesn't run into the engine when I take the plugs out. Then I just slowly turn out the old plugs, if the are hard or are making a lot of noise I will turn them in and out to keep them moving smoothly.
I know they say to never use anti-seize but I started out using it and I have on every set I have put in. I torque the plugs to 28 ftlbs and call it a day. It's not near as bad as some people make it out to be. You can't really see what you are doing on most of them once you get your hands in there so make sure you look at each one well before you start working on it and make sure everything is plugged in and the cop bolt is in properly before moving on to the next one.
Call the dealer? I think if I wanted factory numbers that is what I would do :/
From what I have seen is everyone likes the eBay COPS because they are cheap. They can be hard to get warranted and only seem to last a year or so. But they are cheap. I do see where some people suggest getting a set for a V10 so you will have two extras on hand.
Good luck with whatever you decide.
From what I have seen is everyone likes the eBay COPS because they are cheap. They can be hard to get warranted and only seem to last a year or so. But they are cheap. I do see where some people suggest getting a set for a V10 so you will have two extras on hand.
Good luck with whatever you decide.
Start off by getting a set of SP515 plugs. Use antiseize only on the ground sleeve, not the threads. Replace the original cops using dielectric grease and you have a 90% chance of it running fine. Only get cops if you need them, and the cheap Ebay cops are NOT all that reliable. Your cops are DG511.
Plugs should be replaced every 60k and fuel filter every 30k.
Plugs should be replaced every 60k and fuel filter every 30k.
Start off by getting a set of SP515 plugs. Use antiseize only on the ground sleeve, not the threads. Replace the original cops using dielectric grease and you have a 90% chance of it running fine. Only get cops if you need them, and the cheap Ebay cops are NOT all that reliable. Your cops are DG511.
Plugs should be replaced every 60k and fuel filter every 30k.
Plugs should be replaced every 60k and fuel filter every 30k.
High temp nickel only.
New boots sure wouldn't hurt, they are cheap enough. Don't overdo the grease.
Best cops are Motorcraft or Visteon.
New boots sure wouldn't hurt, they are cheap enough. Don't overdo the grease.
Best cops are Motorcraft or Visteon.
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Do they have to be motorcraft boots, or will any brand work? I ask because I don't think the store where I am getting the plugs has the motorcraft boots.
Motorcraft or Visteon Coils ONLY on eBay or Amazon. A good set can be had at a great price. For instance, -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170958703728...84.m1423.l2649
Last I checked, the dealership needs $90 apiece for these. Those ^^ ARE the real deal.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170958703728...84.m1423.l2649
Last I checked, the dealership needs $90 apiece for these. Those ^^ ARE the real deal.
COP system connectors (@ SP connection) generally do not have the strength to clear grease from the contact points as many might assume. Spotty at best which could lead to intermittent issues. Once boot interiors are greased, slide them over the springs and onto the coil. Grab the bottom part of the spring (plug contact point), pull 1/4" - 1/2" past boot end. Use a small SD to trap spring. Clean the spring end with a good grease cutting agent (med-fast evaporating is best). Let the spring go and it recoils back to original position. This assures coil pulse and ignition integrity. Well, it's the best you can do, -other than running solid connectors.
May or may not be related but I had a similar issue with my 2004 5.4l at around the same mileage. I actually found one of the wires going to the COP had rubbed on a metal bracket until it exposed bare copper which was causing an intermittent short on one of the plugs. After taping up the wire and zip-tying it away from the bracket, my misfire went away. I also had the dealer replace the spark plugs. I normally like to do my own work but the thought of breaking spark plugs wasn't so inviting. The dealer didn't break a single one btw. Also, just my .02, but I don't think it's necessary to replace the COPs unless you're sure they are giving you problems.
Not on threads....heat shield /shank only.....






