Leveling Kits?
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From: Philadelphia
Leveling Kits?
i am in the process of looking into purchasing a leveling kit for my 2005 F-150 FX4 4x4 Supercrew... I know i need a 2.5" lift cause i went out and measured it but i am curious before i order one as the what the reasoning for the bolt pattern difference on these two are... Any Help?
http://www.hellbentsteel.com/2004-20...eling-kit.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-2010-Fo...ht_3281wt_1270
http://www.hellbentsteel.com/2004-20...eling-kit.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-2010-Fo...ht_3281wt_1270
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The AS kits does the same thing. Its the only way you can install it on AS, if you measure the spacer its usually smaller then what the lift says it does like if its a 2' level spacer it make only measure 1.25" the anlge or roating it give it the 2 inch .
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The rotation of the strut has nothing to do with the lift height achieved. It just makes it so the bolts from the strut and the bolts on the spacer are offset instead of directly above each other.
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also, rotating your struts does nothing. just a different design of the spacer for the bolt holes. i liked it better than the others i saw that didnt rotate the strut.
Last edited by GTNOS; Feb 28, 2012 at 05:09 PM.
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http://www.hellbentsteel.com/new-200...t-2wd-4wd.html
at the bottom is a *note wich reads
*Please Note: The thickness of the spacer is 1.25". Due to the design of the independent suspension of the truck, when you extend the strut by 1.25” the angle of the strut becomes steeper allowing the truck to experience approximately 2” of lift. It is the combination of extending the strut and the change in angle that gives the 2” lift. Remember that the installation is not complete until you have had the truck realigned. This is when you will see the true 2" lift that you are expecting.
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Yes it does its even on the hellbentsteel website
http://www.hellbentsteel.com/new-200...t-2wd-4wd.html
at the bottom is a *note wich reads
*Please Note: The thickness of the spacer is 1.25". Due to the design of the independent suspension of the truck, when you extend the strut by 1.25” the angle of the strut becomes steeper allowing the truck to experience approximately 2” of lift. It is the combination of extending the strut and the change in angle that gives the 2” lift. Remember that the installation is not complete until you have had the truck realigned. This is when you will see the true 2" lift that you are expecting.
http://www.hellbentsteel.com/new-200...t-2wd-4wd.html
at the bottom is a *note wich reads
*Please Note: The thickness of the spacer is 1.25". Due to the design of the independent suspension of the truck, when you extend the strut by 1.25” the angle of the strut becomes steeper allowing the truck to experience approximately 2” of lift. It is the combination of extending the strut and the change in angle that gives the 2” lift. Remember that the installation is not complete until you have had the truck realigned. This is when you will see the true 2" lift that you are expecting.
when the strut is longer, the angle in which it contacts the lower control arm is steeper, thus creating lift.
the strut doesnt get longer by rotating it. rotating it is required soley to line up the studs on the spacer to the holes on the strut mount. other designs put the spacer studs right over the original strut studs, this design does not, the spacer studs are offset from the original studs on the struts causing the need to rotate the strut when its re-installed.
see the holes on the HBS billet spacer? thats were the original strut studs go. the studs on the spacer go into the mount. see why the strut would have to rotate 180 degrees to go back in? the new studs are in a different location than the old studs. 180 degrees off in fact
now look that the cast iron one that has the original strut studs coming through holes right below the spacer studs. no reason to rotate the strut with this one. original strut bolts and studs will be in between the two metal plates, right under the spacer studs. like i said though, i didnt care much for the "cast iron sandwich." to me it was worth 10 bucks more for the solid billet. only bad thing about the billet is that its a shame no one will ever see it, its such a nice piece.
OP: IMHO, that ebay one looks like a cheesy piece of $h1t. and its wayyyy overpriced. Go with either of the two HBS spacers pictured above. lot cheaper too. $70 or $80 shipped to your door depending on billet or cast.
Last edited by GTNOS; Feb 29, 2012 at 02:52 PM.
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i think you misunderstood. what it is saying is that when you extend the strut by 1.25" using the spacer, the strut angle changes due to the increased length of the strut. its a combination of the spacer thickness and the angle change caused by lengthening the strut that make the height difference.
when the strut is longer, the angle in which it contacts the lower control arm is steeper, thus creating lift.
the strut doesnt get longer by rotating it. rotating it is required soley to line up the studs on the spacer to the holes on the strut mount. other designs put the spacer studs right over the original strut studs, this design does not, the spacer studs are offset from the original studs on the struts causing the need to rotate the strut when its re-installed.
see the holes on the HBS billet spacer? thats were the original strut studs go. the studs on the spacer go into the mount. see why the strut would have to rotate 180 degrees to go back in? the new studs are in a different location than the old studs. 180 degrees off in fact
now look that the cast iron one that has the original strut studs coming through holes right below the spacer studs. no reason to rotate the strut with this one. original strut bolts and studs will be in between the two metal plates, right under the spacer studs. like i said though, i didnt care much for the "cast iron sandwich." to me it was worth 10 bucks more for the solid billet. only bad thing about the billet is that its a shame no one will ever see it, its such a nice piece.
OP: IMHO, that ebay one looks like a cheesy piece of $h1t. and its wayyyy overpriced. Go with either of the two HBS spacers pictured above. lot cheaper too. $70 or $80 shipped to your door depending on billet or cast.
when the strut is longer, the angle in which it contacts the lower control arm is steeper, thus creating lift.
the strut doesnt get longer by rotating it. rotating it is required soley to line up the studs on the spacer to the holes on the strut mount. other designs put the spacer studs right over the original strut studs, this design does not, the spacer studs are offset from the original studs on the struts causing the need to rotate the strut when its re-installed.
see the holes on the HBS billet spacer? thats were the original strut studs go. the studs on the spacer go into the mount. see why the strut would have to rotate 180 degrees to go back in? the new studs are in a different location than the old studs. 180 degrees off in fact
now look that the cast iron one that has the original strut studs coming through holes right below the spacer studs. no reason to rotate the strut with this one. original strut bolts and studs will be in between the two metal plates, right under the spacer studs. like i said though, i didnt care much for the "cast iron sandwich." to me it was worth 10 bucks more for the solid billet. only bad thing about the billet is that its a shame no one will ever see it, its such a nice piece.
OP: IMHO, that ebay one looks like a cheesy piece of $h1t. and its wayyyy overpriced. Go with either of the two HBS spacers pictured above. lot cheaper too. $70 or $80 shipped to your door depending on billet or cast.
Yea i think your right, either way i agree you dont need those real expensive ones when you get really good ones from AS, hellbent that do the exact same thing and are cheeper.
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From: Georgia
You'll be happy with the Auto Spring or the Hellbent steel.... The 1/4" offset keeps the upper control arm from striking the coil spring during full upward deflection(speed bumps,curbs,etc.)**WITHOUT THIS OFFSET YOU WILL HEAR A LOUD CLUNKING SOUND WHEN GOING OVER SPEED BUMPS OR ON WASHBOARD ROADS. YOU ALSO RISK DAMAGING YOUR UPPER CONTROL ARMS AND COIL SPRINGS. The offset does not in any way effect the handling characteristics or factory ride quality.
(From Website)
(From Website)