I got an 04, 101k plus miles, and im thinking about rebuilding, or just go with new. Im not rich, but i don't want to have problems down the line. I know New would be the way to go. I want to keep the s/c with it regardless.New or rebuilt the s/c stays on.

i bought this truck not that long ago, ( s/c by last owners) No boost gauge, no tuner.. I know, it would be good to get thos.
My main problem is, the tapping, ticking, whatever it is. Im aware of the impious cam Physers.. but i dont think its just that.

When i bought it, truck was running great, no probs, no noise. Once i have it for a week, that when it started going to sh** running lean, bank 2 ,running rough, vibration, limited power, ext.. You guys im sure heard it all before.
Just about every problem wrong with these years, ive had them in the last 3 months... I just want to have the truck running perfect.

You hear it threw normal execration, maybe a rod knock...?
Sorry about the wind..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZ6V8L9OsPA


Some of your thoughts an imputes? Thanks

Some pixs.

 

It could be an exhaust leak in the manifold. It sounded pretty loud when you put the camera in the front drivers side fender well, so it could be that manifold. You can spray some soapy water on there to see if it is leaking or if it is something else ticking.

 

You can hear the lash adjusters tapping for sure. Beyond that there's too much other noise to tell.

The phasers don't really make a ticking/tapping noise. They cause more of the diesel-type knock when they're bad. Although if yours is like most at +100K you probably need or will soon need those done too. Might as well do them at the same time as the adjusters and rollers.

I don't hear any rod knock but as above there's a lot of other noise so hard to tell. Rod knock generally sounds more like a metallic banging in the lower end than a lighter tapping/ticking. If you have a rod knocking, then between the SC and reving it like that, you'll know for sure soon enough.

 

Is the truck tuned for the performance mods?

 

Thanks for the info, and ill get another vid up when its not rainy and windy.

Ok Question about the Lash adjusters, Where and how hard to fix or replace? will it be bad for the engine if i dont get them fixed?

 

Yes. They told me that the s/c was professionally Installed and tuned

 

Yeah, I cant hear it at all right above the engine, but everywhere else you can. Even behind the truck its quite loud.

 

Under the valve covers. You have a lash adjuster for each valve. Three for each cylinder in these motors. The adjuster sits opposite the valve connected to it via a rocker/roller that's under the cam. As the cam rotates, the cam lobes contact the rocker and activate the valves. The adjuster is at the other end of the rocker to take up any slack or "lash" as it's called in order to maintain proper clearance. When they aren't working properly (for a variety of reasons), the adjusters don't rise as they should and there's too much clearance so you get the tap tap tap noise every time the rocker hits.

It's not a simple, easy job. In short, you have to pull the valve covers, compress the valve springs, pull or lift the cam, and replace each of the adjusters and if needed rockers.

In most cases it's not going to cause the motor to grenade short term. There are plenty of these and other motors running around tapping like crazy for a long time. Better to fix it though. The risk is that you get more wear to the rocker/roller and then to the cam lobes. In some cases the rocker can come loose and bounce around in the motor which obviously isn't good but that's fairly rare.

You might try some Lucas or one of the other additives that are made to help with sticky lifters. Also check your oil and pressure. At +100K though and with that kind of noise, some of them probably are just worn out.

 

Ok, sweet. Looks like ill be talking to a local mechanic then. If and when i get this done, would it be a good time just to get the phayers replaced as well?

 

Yes.

 

You guys ever seen or heard anything about these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COMP-...item53e7718880

 

Those are intended for use if you're replacing the stock cam with a hotter aftermarket cam. You still need working phasers. They also have lock-outs for use with other cams.

Yeah, you probably should do the phasers at the same time while they're in there (as long as your pockets are deep enough anyway). If they've not been changed then in the 04 you'd have the older versions that seem more prone to problems.

If you're considering a cam swap that would be the time to do it to save going in again. Labor cost should be about the same since they have to lift the stock cam anyway to pull the adjusters. A little more to swap in new valve springs too if you're going to do it right.