Hey all. I've installed a new set of Gunner 6's with 33 inch Trails. I can not keep the rear wheels tight for the life of me. Any ideas?? Currently torqing them to 140 FTLBS.

 

Torque spec for the truck is 150 ftlbs. Also make sure you do NOT put oil or any other lube on the lugs before you torque them.

 

f' me it is 150. Think 10lbs would make that much differnece?

 

Try 150#. Make sure that you have no anti seize or lube oil on the threads.

 

air impact guns!
Never broke a stud, never stripped a stud and never had one get stuck.
Never lost a tire.

not everyone agrees with this though.

 

You must like buying rotors. Improperly torqued lugnuts are the biggest cause of warped rotors.

 

Over 34K on this set and no issues, I replaced the factory set when I replaced brakes instead of having them turned.

Never replaced a rotor on my mustang until I crashed it and broke one, it was a 00 and I had it for over 2 years. (one set of tires and one brake job)

Never replaced on on my grand am either, it was a 97 and from the day I got it from the junkyard to the day I sold it I never replaced a rotor. (two sets of tires and a brake job and two different sets of rims)

Say what you want, and think what you want but the only time I have ever come close to loosing a rim was when I didn't use a impact gun on my grand am, ruined the rim, hence the second set of rims.

The local tire shop uses a impact gun and so does my Dad and several other local shops, no one has ever complained.

Driving through water with hot rotors and slamming the brakes is far worse than anything I can do with a impact gun.

 

OBoy! I get to be first!

H3ll I ben doin that fer alla my life an I dont git roped roters!

Actually, I bought a torque wrench especially for the purpose of keeping my wheels torqued correctly and carry it in the truck. Anytime, I mean *anytime* a wheel comes off, it gets put back on using the wrench! The mechanics at the dealership roll their eyes, but they use my wrench! Been doing this since I bought my first car with disk brakes.


Well, I guess I tiik too long!

 

har har.

I have never had any issues doing it my way, regardless of doing it how the book says or not.

You may have a problem doing it that way, but I would rather do it how I have always done it.


http://stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures.

 

same here

 

so using just the air impact, how tight are you getting them?

 

Ok. That's your story. Here's mine. I took my Cadillac to the Goodyear tire store to have the tires serviced (rotated and all) When I left the shop and hit the first stop, the car shook. I thought it funny, but went along to the next stop light. When I applied the brakes, the front of the car shook like the rotors were warped. I immediately called my dealership and asked what I should do. The foreman told to return to the Goodyear shop, have them loosen the lug nuts, and retighten them, in a star pattern, using a torque wrench. He told me to have the tire shop call him. I did, they called him, they retightened my wheels and the shaking went away. At a later date, the dealership foreman told me that improper tightening of the wheels caused the warping and had I left it that way, the rotors would have worn and been damaged. He showed me the bulletins from Cadillac. Oh! Cadillac does, or did, not recommend that rotors be turned or even ground. They were replaced!

I've never had a problem since because I insist that my wheels are tightened "by the book". Both Ford and GM (I don't know about Chrysler) specify both a torque specification and sequence. I've found it's better that I don't think I'm smarter than the factory engineers.

 

Kinda like "don't confuse me with the facts" huh?

How's that shoe salesman do'in in your neck of the woods? Not to good huh?

 

Tight? How should I know I don't check them because I don't have to, I go in a star pattern and tighten them all until they are tight.

You have had a different experience then mine, nothing wrong with that.

More like this works for me, always has and I have never had a problem with using the impact gun.

You guys are being ******, I offered my thoughts on the matter and you act like I am some dumb-*** because I don't follow the "book".

Well, it works for me. I have not had issues, YMMV.
My truck doesn't have a shake to it, and never has since I put the new rotors on the truck after I bought new brakes and rotors (so I didn't have to turn them), and yes I have removed and replaced the wheel several times and used a impact both ways each time.

This works for me, it may not work for you.

But I guess God forbid some one do something other then what the "book" says right?


By the way, we all wear shoes here.

 

I don't have an impact gun, and don't have a toque wrench that big. I use a lug wrench and feel, never had a loose lugnut since I've been driving (15 yrs), and I do all of my own tire rotations.

To the OP, I'd say to make sure the wheel is seated properly on the hub and make sure you tighten them in a star pattern.