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Old May 23, 2011 | 10:10 PM
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Brake job

I am needing new brakes soon what is that going to run me ish?
 
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Old May 23, 2011 | 10:31 PM
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Do you have a jack and a couple wrenches? If you just need pads its super easy. Even if you need rotors its very easy...just make sure to get a c clamp or the special tool for rushing the pistons its only a couple dollars...you can do just pads for under 50 bucks and less than an hour.

I just did mine myself for the first time and am mad I ever paid someone to do that. You can get a 3 ton jack with two jack stands and a crawler for 100 bucks at Sears right now.
 
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Old May 23, 2011 | 11:09 PM
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Easy is relative. I agree that it's a very simple task but someone with little know how might not be able to do it. How much it will cost depends on what, if anything, is wrong with your brakes right now. If you've been grinding metal on metal for the last month it's going to cost more than if your pads are simply worn out. I can say from experience that it's a good idea to at least turn your rotors if you get new pads. It's a necessity if you are having any kind of vibration or pulsation when you brake. I went with Wagner Thermoquiet ceramic pads. I've been running them for two or three months and I couldn't be happier with the performance and there's no more brake dust. All together my brake job cost a little under $200 (turned front rotors and replaced rear rotors). The only tricky thing is removing the rear rotors. They don't just slide off like the fronts. The parking brake mechanism is built into the rear rotors so you have to loosen up the star adjuster and beat them until they pop off. Mine literally popped when they broke loose.
 
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Old May 29, 2011 | 04:58 PM
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Ok have decided to do it myself what pads are good an reasonable?
Also if I have no pulsing or vibrating can I just replace the pads do not
Really want to turn them if I can
 
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Old May 29, 2011 | 05:11 PM
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I never turn the rotors. I use Wagner ThermoQuiets. The semi-metallic, never a problem.
 
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Old May 29, 2011 | 05:14 PM
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Just did brakes yesterday. Went with oem rotors and Wagner ThermoQuiet semi-metallic. SUPER easy to do. Cost me $150 with rotors and pads.
 
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Old May 29, 2011 | 05:23 PM
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Quick question looking at the wagner tq ceramics the rear says to 03/06/06?
I have a 2006
 
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Old May 29, 2011 | 05:37 PM
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Your drivers door sticker will tell you the exact build date. Likely it was in 2005
 
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Old May 29, 2011 | 05:45 PM
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Yes mine says 08/05 so i am good yes
 
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Old May 29, 2011 | 07:15 PM
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even though your not turning the rotors i would suggest taking off the rears and removing the lip of rust, dirt, crap, etc, that forms on the inside of the drum. they may not be the easiest thing to get off either.
 
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Old May 29, 2011 | 08:36 PM
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If I do need to replace the rotors and am looking for an oem equivalent what brand type would be good?
 
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Old May 29, 2011 | 08:38 PM
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At $50 a rotor, unless you are on a tight budget, just get new rotors to go with the brake pads. Make sure you change the hardware also and by that I mean the caliper piston boots, and the brake pad sliding surfaces and springs up front. You can get the package relatively cheap from Rock Auto or directly from Ford "Disc Hardware Kit." If you are going to do it, do it right. The kit is under $15 per brake set. I would actually recommend Ford for the Kit if you buy the brake and rotors from somewhere else. If you get the brake/rotors from Ford Parts, the kit is enclosed...A lot of people make the Kits, but the sometimes the boots don't have the correct lip to lock into the caliper...
 
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Old May 29, 2011 | 09:01 PM
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I just did mine last weekend using factory parts; ordered through Tasca.

All four rotors: $317
Front and rear pads: $135
 
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Old May 29, 2011 | 09:11 PM
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Not sure if its because mine's a 2004, but when I did all 4 rotors a few years ago, I had a heck of a time getting the front rotors off. The rears slide off but the front rotors are held in place by a large spindle nut. Its a 36mm nut and the biggest socket I had was a 24mm.

I had to call a number of places to find the 36mm socket (Autozone had one I borrowed), then I had to locate a pair of new spindle nuts, as you're apparently not supposed to re-use the ones that come off the truck. Then, I couldn't get the nut to break loose with my 18 in or 24 in breaker bar.

I finally had to use my jack to jack under the breaker bar to loosen the nut (my impact wrench wouldn't budge it either; the factory torque for putting the spindle nut back on was close to 300 lb-ft).

So, it took me several hours to complete the job. I'm curious why no other responses yet have mentioned these nuts as it made the job a real PITA.
 
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Old May 29, 2011 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Southbound 35
Not sure if its because mine's a 2004, but when I did all 4 rotors a few years ago, I had a heck of a time getting the front rotors off. The rears slide off but the front rotors are held in place by a large spindle nut. Its a 36mm nut and the biggest socket I had was a 24mm.

I had to call a number of places to find the 36mm socket (Autozone had one I borrowed), then I had to locate a pair of new spindle nuts, as you're apparently not supposed to re-use the ones that come off the truck. Then, I couldn't get the nut to break loose with my 18 in or 24 in breaker bar.

I finally had to use my jack to jack under the breaker bar to loosen the nut (my impact wrench wouldn't budge it either; the factory torque for putting the spindle nut back on was close to 300 lb-ft).

So, it took me several hours to complete the job. I'm curious why no other responses yet have mentioned these nuts as it made the job a real PITA.
Only the 4X2 have the spindle nut. 4X4 rotors slide right off
 
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