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How To Gap The Plugs (PICS)

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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 11:07 PM
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How To Gap The Plugs (PICS)

For anyone interested here is a brief description of how I did it and avoided the M shape on the ground using tools I already had. No center punch needed.
First I ground down some feeler gauges so they would fit in the plug.


Then place the plug in a vice and insert the feeler gauge (stacking if needed) to the desired gap.


Now tap gently and evenly with a hammer. Slide the feeler gauges back and forth between each tap with the hammer to determine how much force should be used on the next tap. The feeler gauges will act as a shim to prevent you from going to far and thus preventing you from prying on the plug to try and regap it after you have gone to far.


The end result is a straight ground without the M shape that comes about when using the center punch method. Don't forget the anti-seize!!!!
 

Last edited by twinskrewd; Feb 16, 2011 at 11:09 PM.
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 11:29 PM
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I thought you didn't have to gap them
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 11:34 PM
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i think he might cause of that whole supercharger higher octane ordeal. ive read about this for forced induction cars.

good post man, you should post more about your truck i like it
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 11:42 PM
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Thanks. Those with forced induction do have to gap the plugs. I posted this in the Supercharged forum but thought I would post it here for anyone with other mods that may require this.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by City of Champs
I thought you didn't have to gap them

Always check the plug gap.....

You don't know what happened to them from the time they left the factory to the time when you buy them.....
 
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 11:55 PM
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Good post TS!
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 10:52 AM
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It doesnt look like you put any antiseize on the shield at the bottom.

Good post
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 11:22 AM
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From: In the fast lane from LA to Tokyo...
Originally Posted by Qalo
It doesnt look like you put any antiseize on the shield at the bottom.

Good post
Good catch....I missed that last night.....

The antisieze is only supposed to go on the heat shield/shank.....not the base and threads...
 

Last edited by 88racing; Feb 17, 2011 at 11:57 AM.
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 12:05 PM
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thats good to know, i knew it went on the shank but i thought you put a little onthe threads also
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 12:38 PM
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From: In the fast lane from LA to Tokyo...
Originally Posted by fivespeedsteed
thats good to know, i knew it went on the shank but i thought you put a little onthe threads also
Leave the threads bare....
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 12:58 PM
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I don't know why you would want to keep the threads bare. I have no experience with these plugs, but I have always used antizeize on the threads of conventional spark plugs, especially with aluminum heads.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Windsor
I don't know why you would want to keep the threads bare. I have no experience with these plugs, but I have always used antizeize on the threads of conventional spark plugs, especially with aluminum heads.
These plugs are nickel coated and do not require anti-seize. It can actually distort torque values.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 01:13 PM
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i've seen that comment posted elsewhere and its incorrect. Anti-seize will not distort torque values. If it did you could not use it on say head bolts. As for my particular motor I have never had any build up of any kind on the plugs and I only apply anti-seize to the threads.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by twinskrewd
i've seen that comment posted elsewhere and its incorrect. Anti-seize will not distort torque values. If it did you could not use it on say head bolts. As for my particular motor I have never had any build up of any kind on the plugs and I only apply anti-seize to the threads.
I said can, if they get too much on there, it will distort. Since it's not needed, I won't be putting it on mine, but of course, anyone is free to do so.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 01:18 PM
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Well, that makes sense. Like I said, I have no experience with these spark plugs, so I've never seen one up close and personal. I suppose it would be virtually impossible for the carb cleaner to get past the threads on the subsequent replacement with anti-sieze.

I can't tell y'all what a relief it was to discover I have the revised heads with conventional plugs in my 2008.
 
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