How To Gap The Plugs (PICS)
How To Gap The Plugs (PICS)
For anyone interested here is a brief description of how I did it and avoided the M shape on the ground using tools I already had. No center punch needed.
First I ground down some feeler gauges so they would fit in the plug.

Then place the plug in a vice and insert the feeler gauge (stacking if needed) to the desired gap.

Now tap gently and evenly with a hammer. Slide the feeler gauges back and forth between each tap with the hammer to determine how much force should be used on the next tap. The feeler gauges will act as a shim to prevent you from going to far and thus preventing you from prying on the plug to try and regap it after you have gone to far.

The end result is a straight ground without the M shape that comes about when using the center punch method. Don't forget the anti-seize!!!!
First I ground down some feeler gauges so they would fit in the plug.

Then place the plug in a vice and insert the feeler gauge (stacking if needed) to the desired gap.

Now tap gently and evenly with a hammer. Slide the feeler gauges back and forth between each tap with the hammer to determine how much force should be used on the next tap. The feeler gauges will act as a shim to prevent you from going to far and thus preventing you from prying on the plug to try and regap it after you have gone to far.

The end result is a straight ground without the M shape that comes about when using the center punch method. Don't forget the anti-seize!!!!
Last edited by twinskrewd; Feb 16, 2011 at 11:09 PM.
Thanks. Those with forced induction do have to gap the plugs. I posted this in the Supercharged forum but thought I would post it here for anyone with other mods that may require this.
Always check the plug gap.....
You don't know what happened to them from the time they left the factory to the time when you buy them.....
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The antisieze is only supposed to go on the heat shield/shank.....not the base and threads...
Last edited by 88racing; Feb 17, 2011 at 11:57 AM.
Leave the threads bare....
I don't know why you would want to keep the threads bare. I have no experience with these plugs, but I have always used antizeize on the threads of conventional spark plugs, especially with aluminum heads.
These plugs are nickel coated and do not require anti-seize. It can actually distort torque values.
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Jim
Jim
i've seen that comment posted elsewhere and its incorrect. Anti-seize will not distort torque values. If it did you could not use it on say head bolts. As for my particular motor I have never had any build up of any kind on the plugs and I only apply anti-seize to the threads.
i've seen that comment posted elsewhere and its incorrect. Anti-seize will not distort torque values. If it did you could not use it on say head bolts. As for my particular motor I have never had any build up of any kind on the plugs and I only apply anti-seize to the threads.
__________________
Jim
Jim
Well, that makes sense. Like I said, I have no experience with these spark plugs, so I've never seen one up close and personal. I suppose it would be virtually impossible for the carb cleaner to get past the threads on the subsequent replacement with anti-sieze.
I can't tell y'all what a relief it was to discover I have the revised heads with conventional plugs in my 2008.
I can't tell y'all what a relief it was to discover I have the revised heads with conventional plugs in my 2008.




