Spark Plugs (Dire Need of Help)
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1
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Hi Guys,
I'm late at getting in on this thread, but I just changed the spark plugs on my '04 F150 with 5.4L last week. I only had 53,000 miles on it. The whole process went a lot easier than what I had read. This was the first time I have attempted to change plugs on a 5.4L. I copied a document that I wrote up to help others. Make sure and have the “Lisle 65600” kit (Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford 3 Valve) ready, you will need it. I only had two plugs come apart, but as Murphy's law goes, the harder the plugs are to get to, the greater the chance they will come apart. My back plug on each bank came apart. Follow the instructions and I think it will go easier then you expect, it did for me. Make sure and coat the new plugs with “High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize” (2552 degrees).
I bought mine through the Ford dealer, $20.00 for 8 ounce container. I bought Motorcraft SP507 spark plugs through Advance Auto Parts for $7.99 each, the dealer wanted $20.03 each!
FORD 5.4L 3-VALVE SPARK PLUG REMOVAL
NOTE: Plugs must soak for 2-3 days to loosen the carbon around the plug tip.
Soaking may not keep the plug from coming apart, but it will make removing the tip a lot easier if the carbon is softened up first.
1. On passenger side: Pull bales down and remove (3) large wire connectors from the computer
box (7 x 8” box mounted on firewall).
2. Unbolt computer box, (4) bolts with 10MM socket and set aside.
3. Remove the computer box mounting bracket from fire wall, (3) bolts with 10MM socket.
4. Blow out spark plug wells with compressed air. Use a piece of ¼” rubber fuel line 30” long as a
funnel to blow thru.
5. Press release tab in to remove the wire connector from the COP (coil on plug).
6. Remove (1) screw with 7MM socket that holds each COP (coil on plug) in place.
7. Twist the COP and spark plug boot to free from spark plug well and remove.
Lay out in order so they can be reinstalled on the same cylinder.
8. Spray carburetor cleaner in the spark plug well to cover the hex on the spark plug.
Spray cleaner thru a piece of ¼” rubber fuel line 30” long using it as a funnel.
9. Using torque wrench loosen the spark plug 1/8-1/4 of a turn.
(should break loose around 33 foot pounds of torque.
10. Retorque plug to 25 foot pounds and loosen again 1/8-1/4 turn (to work cleaner in).
11. Repeat tightening and loosening plug every couple hours for the next 2-3 days. Make sure
spark plug well maintains carburetor cleaner above the plug hex. Use an inspection mirror
and light to verify.
12. After 2-3 days of soaking place a rag over the spark plug well and blow out excess carburetor
Cleaner so it won’t go into the cylinder (use ¼” fuel line as funnel to blow thru).
13. Remove plugs (9/16 socket) using various extensions and universal joint.
(use long fingers to lift spark plug out of well)
14. Coat new plugs with “High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize” (2552 degrees). Coat the 3/8”
diameter tipl keeping the anti-seize away from the electrode and a light film on the
threads.
15. Use long fingers to lower the plug into the well and torque to 25 foot pounds.
16. Apply “Dielectric Compound” to the spark plug boot and install on the plug.
17. Apply anti-seize to the COP’s screws and install.
18. Apply “Dielectric Compound” to the COP connector and snap in place.
19. Mount the computer box bracket to the firewall with (3) screws using 10MM socket.
20. Mount the computer box in the bracket with (4) screws using 10MM socket.
21. Install (3) wire connectors locking in place with the bails.
22. The computer will take about five minutes to readjust. During that time the engine may only
be running on 6 or 7 cylinders. You will have to baby it at idle until it smooth out.
IF THE PLUG SEPERATES WHILE TRYING TO REMOVE:
1. Buy “Lisle 65600” kit (Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford 3 Valve). $59.00 on e-bay.
2. Follow instructions making sure to break the porcelain off flush inside spark plug tip first.
3. Use “Assembly Lube” on all threads and tap when using remover.
I'm late at getting in on this thread, but I just changed the spark plugs on my '04 F150 with 5.4L last week. I only had 53,000 miles on it. The whole process went a lot easier than what I had read. This was the first time I have attempted to change plugs on a 5.4L. I copied a document that I wrote up to help others. Make sure and have the “Lisle 65600” kit (Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford 3 Valve) ready, you will need it. I only had two plugs come apart, but as Murphy's law goes, the harder the plugs are to get to, the greater the chance they will come apart. My back plug on each bank came apart. Follow the instructions and I think it will go easier then you expect, it did for me. Make sure and coat the new plugs with “High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize” (2552 degrees).
I bought mine through the Ford dealer, $20.00 for 8 ounce container. I bought Motorcraft SP507 spark plugs through Advance Auto Parts for $7.99 each, the dealer wanted $20.03 each!
FORD 5.4L 3-VALVE SPARK PLUG REMOVAL
NOTE: Plugs must soak for 2-3 days to loosen the carbon around the plug tip.
Soaking may not keep the plug from coming apart, but it will make removing the tip a lot easier if the carbon is softened up first.
1. On passenger side: Pull bales down and remove (3) large wire connectors from the computer
box (7 x 8” box mounted on firewall).
2. Unbolt computer box, (4) bolts with 10MM socket and set aside.
3. Remove the computer box mounting bracket from fire wall, (3) bolts with 10MM socket.
4. Blow out spark plug wells with compressed air. Use a piece of ¼” rubber fuel line 30” long as a
funnel to blow thru.
5. Press release tab in to remove the wire connector from the COP (coil on plug).
6. Remove (1) screw with 7MM socket that holds each COP (coil on plug) in place.
7. Twist the COP and spark plug boot to free from spark plug well and remove.
Lay out in order so they can be reinstalled on the same cylinder.
8. Spray carburetor cleaner in the spark plug well to cover the hex on the spark plug.
Spray cleaner thru a piece of ¼” rubber fuel line 30” long using it as a funnel.
9. Using torque wrench loosen the spark plug 1/8-1/4 of a turn.
(should break loose around 33 foot pounds of torque.
10. Retorque plug to 25 foot pounds and loosen again 1/8-1/4 turn (to work cleaner in).
11. Repeat tightening and loosening plug every couple hours for the next 2-3 days. Make sure
spark plug well maintains carburetor cleaner above the plug hex. Use an inspection mirror
and light to verify.
12. After 2-3 days of soaking place a rag over the spark plug well and blow out excess carburetor
Cleaner so it won’t go into the cylinder (use ¼” fuel line as funnel to blow thru).
13. Remove plugs (9/16 socket) using various extensions and universal joint.
(use long fingers to lift spark plug out of well)
14. Coat new plugs with “High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize” (2552 degrees). Coat the 3/8”
diameter tipl keeping the anti-seize away from the electrode and a light film on the
threads.
15. Use long fingers to lower the plug into the well and torque to 25 foot pounds.
16. Apply “Dielectric Compound” to the spark plug boot and install on the plug.
17. Apply anti-seize to the COP’s screws and install.
18. Apply “Dielectric Compound” to the COP connector and snap in place.
19. Mount the computer box bracket to the firewall with (3) screws using 10MM socket.
20. Mount the computer box in the bracket with (4) screws using 10MM socket.
21. Install (3) wire connectors locking in place with the bails.
22. The computer will take about five minutes to readjust. During that time the engine may only
be running on 6 or 7 cylinders. You will have to baby it at idle until it smooth out.
IF THE PLUG SEPERATES WHILE TRYING TO REMOVE:
1. Buy “Lisle 65600” kit (Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford 3 Valve). $59.00 on e-bay.
2. Follow instructions making sure to break the porcelain off flush inside spark plug tip first.
3. Use “Assembly Lube” on all threads and tap when using remover.
Global Moderator &
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 26,080
Likes: 84
From: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
Hi Guys,
I'm late at getting in on this thread, but I just changed the spark plugs on my '04 F150 with 5.4L last week. I only had 53,000 miles on it. The whole process went a lot easier than what I had read. This was the first time I have attempted to change plugs on a 5.4L. I copied a document that I wrote up to help others. Make sure and have the “Lisle 65600” kit (Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford 3 Valve) ready, you will need it. I only had two plugs come apart, but as Murphy's law goes, the harder the plugs are to get to, the greater the chance they will come apart. My back plug on each bank came apart. Follow the instructions and I think it will go easier then you expect, it did for me. Make sure and coat the new plugs with “High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize” (2552 degrees).
I bought mine through the Ford dealer, $20.00 for 8 ounce container. I bought Motorcraft SP507 spark plugs through Advance Auto Parts for $7.99 each, the dealer wanted $20.03 each!
FORD 5.4L 3-VALVE SPARK PLUG REMOVAL
NOTE: Plugs must soak for 2-3 days to loosen the carbon around the plug tip.
Soaking may not keep the plug from coming apart, but it will make removing the tip a lot easier if the carbon is softened up first.
1. On passenger side: Pull bales down and remove (3) large wire connectors from the computer
box (7 x 8” box mounted on firewall).
2. Unbolt computer box, (4) bolts with 10MM socket and set aside.
3. Remove the computer box mounting bracket from fire wall, (3) bolts with 10MM socket.
4. Blow out spark plug wells with compressed air. Use a piece of ¼” rubber fuel line 30” long as a
funnel to blow thru.
5. Press release tab in to remove the wire connector from the COP (coil on plug).
6. Remove (1) screw with 7MM socket that holds each COP (coil on plug) in place.
7. Twist the COP and spark plug boot to free from spark plug well and remove.
Lay out in order so they can be reinstalled on the same cylinder.
8. Spray carburetor cleaner in the spark plug well to cover the hex on the spark plug.
Spray cleaner thru a piece of ¼” rubber fuel line 30” long using it as a funnel.
9. Using torque wrench loosen the spark plug 1/8-1/4 of a turn.
(should break loose around 33 foot pounds of torque.
10. Retorque plug to 25 foot pounds and loosen again 1/8-1/4 turn (to work cleaner in).
11. Repeat tightening and loosening plug every couple hours for the next 2-3 days. Make sure
spark plug well maintains carburetor cleaner above the plug hex. Use an inspection mirror
and light to verify.
12. After 2-3 days of soaking place a rag over the spark plug well and blow out excess carburetor
Cleaner so it won’t go into the cylinder (use ¼” fuel line as funnel to blow thru).
13. Remove plugs (9/16 socket) using various extensions and universal joint.
(use long fingers to lift spark plug out of well)
14. Coat new plugs with “High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize” (2552 degrees). Coat the 3/8”
diameter tipl keeping the anti-seize away from the electrode and a light film on the
threads.
15. Use long fingers to lower the plug into the well and torque to 25 foot pounds.
16. Apply “Dielectric Compound” to the spark plug boot and install on the plug.
17. Apply anti-seize to the COP’s screws and install.
18. Apply “Dielectric Compound” to the COP connector and snap in place.
19. Mount the computer box bracket to the firewall with (3) screws using 10MM socket.
20. Mount the computer box in the bracket with (4) screws using 10MM socket.
21. Install (3) wire connectors locking in place with the bails.
22. The computer will take about five minutes to readjust. During that time the engine may only
be running on 6 or 7 cylinders. You will have to baby it at idle until it smooth out.
IF THE PLUG SEPERATES WHILE TRYING TO REMOVE:
1. Buy “Lisle 65600” kit (Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford 3 Valve). $59.00 on e-bay.
2. Follow instructions making sure to break the porcelain off flush inside spark plug tip first.
3. Use “Assembly Lube” on all threads and tap when using remover.
I'm late at getting in on this thread, but I just changed the spark plugs on my '04 F150 with 5.4L last week. I only had 53,000 miles on it. The whole process went a lot easier than what I had read. This was the first time I have attempted to change plugs on a 5.4L. I copied a document that I wrote up to help others. Make sure and have the “Lisle 65600” kit (Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford 3 Valve) ready, you will need it. I only had two plugs come apart, but as Murphy's law goes, the harder the plugs are to get to, the greater the chance they will come apart. My back plug on each bank came apart. Follow the instructions and I think it will go easier then you expect, it did for me. Make sure and coat the new plugs with “High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize” (2552 degrees).
I bought mine through the Ford dealer, $20.00 for 8 ounce container. I bought Motorcraft SP507 spark plugs through Advance Auto Parts for $7.99 each, the dealer wanted $20.03 each!
FORD 5.4L 3-VALVE SPARK PLUG REMOVAL
NOTE: Plugs must soak for 2-3 days to loosen the carbon around the plug tip.
Soaking may not keep the plug from coming apart, but it will make removing the tip a lot easier if the carbon is softened up first.
1. On passenger side: Pull bales down and remove (3) large wire connectors from the computer
box (7 x 8” box mounted on firewall).
2. Unbolt computer box, (4) bolts with 10MM socket and set aside.
3. Remove the computer box mounting bracket from fire wall, (3) bolts with 10MM socket.
4. Blow out spark plug wells with compressed air. Use a piece of ¼” rubber fuel line 30” long as a
funnel to blow thru.
5. Press release tab in to remove the wire connector from the COP (coil on plug).
6. Remove (1) screw with 7MM socket that holds each COP (coil on plug) in place.
7. Twist the COP and spark plug boot to free from spark plug well and remove.
Lay out in order so they can be reinstalled on the same cylinder.
8. Spray carburetor cleaner in the spark plug well to cover the hex on the spark plug.
Spray cleaner thru a piece of ¼” rubber fuel line 30” long using it as a funnel.
9. Using torque wrench loosen the spark plug 1/8-1/4 of a turn.
(should break loose around 33 foot pounds of torque.
10. Retorque plug to 25 foot pounds and loosen again 1/8-1/4 turn (to work cleaner in).
11. Repeat tightening and loosening plug every couple hours for the next 2-3 days. Make sure
spark plug well maintains carburetor cleaner above the plug hex. Use an inspection mirror
and light to verify.
12. After 2-3 days of soaking place a rag over the spark plug well and blow out excess carburetor
Cleaner so it won’t go into the cylinder (use ¼” fuel line as funnel to blow thru).
13. Remove plugs (9/16 socket) using various extensions and universal joint.
(use long fingers to lift spark plug out of well)
14. Coat new plugs with “High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize” (2552 degrees). Coat the 3/8”
diameter tipl keeping the anti-seize away from the electrode and a light film on the
threads.
15. Use long fingers to lower the plug into the well and torque to 25 foot pounds.
16. Apply “Dielectric Compound” to the spark plug boot and install on the plug.
17. Apply anti-seize to the COP’s screws and install.
18. Apply “Dielectric Compound” to the COP connector and snap in place.
19. Mount the computer box bracket to the firewall with (3) screws using 10MM socket.
20. Mount the computer box in the bracket with (4) screws using 10MM socket.
21. Install (3) wire connectors locking in place with the bails.
22. The computer will take about five minutes to readjust. During that time the engine may only
be running on 6 or 7 cylinders. You will have to baby it at idle until it smooth out.
IF THE PLUG SEPERATES WHILE TRYING TO REMOVE:
1. Buy “Lisle 65600” kit (Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford 3 Valve). $59.00 on e-bay.
2. Follow instructions making sure to break the porcelain off flush inside spark plug tip first.
3. Use “Assembly Lube” on all threads and tap when using remover.
__________________
Jim
Jim
Wait ... what? So I overdid it with the Nickel Anti-Seize? Is it a bad thing? How do you know if your plug is nickel coated?
Global Moderator &
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 26,080
Likes: 84
From: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
All Motorcrafts for aluminum heads are. As stated above, antisieze in the threads can distort the torqueing specs, but I would not worry about it at this oint. Just keep it in mind for next time and keep an ear out, should a plug start backing out. You will hear it.
__________________
Jim
Jim
I didn't put any on the threads, just coated the shield. I'm assuming this nickel coating started after they discovered the problem with the carbon buildup?