wow guys, this is really a job and a half!, any tips or tricks? im at the point now where im going to jack up the engine, will i really gain that much more clearance?

 

Driver side is easy. Passanger side I took out all but I think 2 of the manifold studs and jacked the engine up a little in order to slide the manifold out. The header slid in no problem at all.

 

You can also remove the starter if it's getting in the way. Jacking up the engine is also one of the steps recommended.

 

Jacking the motor up (or removing whole K member if working on a Mustang) is the most easiest way to do this when working on "Mod" Motors.

 

take a 1/2" drive 6" long extension to jack up next to the motor mount, and then take the motor mount bolt out of the bottom, lift the engine up.

you will also need to take out the transmission dipstick tube, just make sure it goes back in before you bolt the header down completely

Also only use Ford's steal gaskets, they are better then anything your headers come with. You can try and reuse your factory ones, or buy a new set of 4 for around 120 bucks

good luck.

 

Thanks guys, is the top starter bolt easier to get to with the engine jacked up? also, what is the best to use to fasten the headers on, bolts, studs/ nuts? it also looks like I will need about 5-6 inches to get the old studs and nuts loose , can I jack that far with out a problem?

 

you should be able to get all the studs out without that much space. If you look at the end of the stud there is like a 5.5mm head on it. Put a short 1/4" drive socket on it and take it out if the stud doesnt come out with the nut still on it.

As far as jacking up the motor, you shouldnt be able to go that far up with firewall and transmission clearance issues. We were able to get the long tubes in with only going up 1" maybe 1.5"

 

Any advise on what type of fasteners to use on the headers?

 

Bolts are bolts, ive used the locking kind, and non locking. Just make sure you retorque them after a few heat cycles or 100 miles

 

I bought the factory gaskets per the recommendation, but as i take a close look at them, the round port on the header wont correctly fit up with the gasket sealing area. Has anybody looked into this at all?

 

It is normal for headers to be larger than the exhaust port. As long as the gasket is not blocking the exhaust port, it is okay for it to block the header opening.

Edit:
I just noticed that the header is unblocked on one side. I would measure to verify that the header fully covers the top of the exhaust port.

 

Thanks for the reply, i understand this, but , the part iam worried about is that the factory header gasket has that "crush area" around the port opening. Iam afraid if i install it, the gasket will never seal properly because the bottom of the gasket never gets crushed. Does everybody else run these gaskets with out problem? Also, when i picked this stuff up i told them i wanted the new stainless steel studs and nuts, and he said , "Oh yea, i know", so when i got home, i checked them with a magnet, yep mild steel, so im kinda dead in the water now. lol

 

You talked to member here FATHERFORD? He has installed these headers on his truck, and he is very knowledgeable.

 

I used the gaskets that came with the OBX kit....

I used the original factory studs and nuts.....

No problems so far.

I jacked up the passenger side of the engine.

I took off the starter.

I took out the transmission dip stick(and replaced before bolting the header on).

I think I hit all the questions in this thread....

 

Fatherford I'm going to be doing my headers soon since I have a exhaust leak on the passenger side how long have you had the headers on your truck?