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small shutter from stop: Limites Slip axle?

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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 04:47 PM
  #31  
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glc
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From: Joplin MO
You should be using 75w140, not 75w90.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 05:14 PM
  #32  
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i have a 2010 FX4 that studders at any stop when i release the brakes, could this be the problem?
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 05:31 PM
  #33  
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From: Joplin MO
Not if the wheel is straight and you aren't hitting the gas.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 01:52 PM
  #34  
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From: Kansas side of the greater KC area
My 05 with 3.55 LS has been doing this lately. Mostly when truck is cold until everything is up to operatimg temps. I 'am planing on getting the fluid changed soon since it has lttle over 100k on the original fluid to see if that resolves my problem.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 12:36 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by glc
Not if the wheel is straight and you aren't hitting the gas.
wheels are straingt, happens when truck is cold or warmed up and happens after the release of the brakes without gas
 
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 01:21 PM
  #36  
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From: Joplin MO
That's not limited slip chatter.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2013 | 10:41 PM
  #37  
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
Originally Posted by curtmacd
Thought I would be smart and buy the "best" product available.......so I purchased Royal Purple with the built in modifier. Did the service and the chatter was the same if not worse! I paid $20 a quart for the Royal Purple which everyone says is the best! SO, I brought it back in and drained the Royal Purple and added the Motorcraft modifier with the 75W-90. Now it's running as quiet as a mouse peein on cotton. It actually feels like it is rolling smoother and more freely. Not a bit of chatter or noise when turning. BOO, HISS on the Royal Purple.......save yourself some money and buy the modifier from FORD!
I am having the same problem....... and I used Royal Purple with the friction modifier.

I am planning to add a bottle of the Ford/Motorcraft friction modifier to the Royal Purple in the diff.

Does anyone see a problem with this???
 

Last edited by duckduke; Sep 14, 2013 at 10:43 PM.
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 06:31 PM
  #38  
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
For those finding this older thread I resurrected ...........

Yes..... you can and I did add the Motorcraft Friction Modifier (FM) XL-3 to the Royal Purple. Yes, I did some figure 8's to help coat the LS clutches etc. So far so good but I am on day one. I haven't felt any shutter on initial acceleration like I was feeling. I'm optimistic ... but I have read where others had the same result for a week or so and then the shudder/vibrations started again and many ended up installing with a LS clutch kit.

IMO -- from what I've read on this issue here and other F150 forums:
1-- I would not use Royal Purple in the rear diff. If I had read all of what I've read the past week before I did my diff service, I would simply use the Ford/Motorcraft diff fluid and Ford/Motorcraft Friction Modifier. I have read where a number of people using Royal Purple (with the friction modifier included) in the rear diff, have wound up with the same problem (shudder/vibration upon initial acceleration) and then having to add the Motorcraft FM XL-3. Many have switched back to the Motorcraft diff fluid or some other brand besides Royal Purple, and adding the FM XL-3.

2-- If you add the Motorcraft FM XL-3 to the rear diff and can't get rid of the vibration/shudder on initial acceleration. You have 5 choices.
1) Live with it
2) Try doing a total fluid change with another fluid like the spec Motorcraft diff fluid + Motorcraft FM XL-3 and see if it changes (this is a cheap fix if it works)
3) Sell/trade the truck
4) Get a LS clutch kit put in .... dealership cost is about $1300 from what I've read. I've also read where a number of people have trouble, even under warranty, and are on their 3rd kit before they hit 100,000 miles. I think this is the worst option. If you want to fix the clutches ..... see option 5) below (get rid of them).
5) Best choice IMO - Buy an Eaton Truetrac diff .... current price about $509 online from DTS ..... and get rid of the clutches. Install yourself if you're capable or take it to a drive train specialist or race shop that routinely installs diffs. This will get rid of the LS clutches NOTE: According to several posts I've read online ... Eaton suggests 80w90 Petroleum fluid ONLY (i.e. - no friction modifier)

Just my thoughts .... hope this helps someone down the road!!


For more info search for:
XL-3
Eaton
shudder
Truetrac
 
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