Sorry if this has been answered before, but I have been searching the forums and checking manuals all day with no luck. I have a 2006 F-150 XL 4.2 liter (70,000 miles). Between my last two oil changes, I have noticed oil losses of up to 3-4 quarts each time (approx. 4,000 miles between changes), but there are no signs of leakage. No oil where I park, and I have crawled underneath and can't see a trace of oil anywhere. I was told the oil loss could be due to a bad PCV valve. Does this sound like a possible cause for the oil loss? If so, where exactly is the PCV valve located on this specific model, and how is it replaced? I am thinking it is on the driver's side valve cover, and the hose connected to it has a weird looking connector on the end that I don't know how to remove.

 

Wait until he hears that he has to replace the whole valve cover to replace the PCV...

 

I don't think you have to on the 4.2 - it looks removable to me on the pic I see at rockauto.com, it looks like it's a twist lock. It's electrically heated, so it has an electrical connector. It also costs 40 bucks. Maybe I'm wrong, I'm just going by what I see in the pic.

 

Good catch... 4.2 is a different animal. I apologize for the confusion.

 

I have the 4.6L engine, but replacing the PCV eliminated my oil consumption problem. Burning a lot of oil between changes, seeing blue smoke on cold starts, gone! I forget how much in cost, 30 bucks maybe? Ordered mine from Napa. Mine is on the passenger side valve cover. If you can't get a good grip on it with your hand, use a pair of pliers or channel locks. It's a twist lock. Very easy.

 

I seem to be burning a lot of oil too between changes. Does anyone know where I can find the associated PCV valve on the 5.4L? I keep reading it's on the driver & passenger valve cover and even on the intake manifold. Thanks in advance.

 

The 5.4 3 valve doesn't have one. It uses a fixed orifice, and the valve cover needs to be replaced. See post #2.

 

You're issue could be related to the oil you're using as well. Might want to research ASTM D5800. It has to do with the oil volatility due to heat. While you pay a lot for most synthetics, they are not all that spiffy these days. The test criteria calls for the oil to be subjected to one hour at 304F. The numbers you will see from the test results are the amount of oil cooked off in percentage of weight. So if you use the Mobil One which is rated at 10.4, that's 10.4 percent by weight that cooked off due to heat inside the engine. Where you live, San Diego, I would highly recommend using Pennzoil yellow bottle 10w-30, not 5w-30. Temps in SD never get cold enough for the 5w oils to be of any value. The 10w-30 Pennzoil is a conventional oil and is 3 times more stable than any Mobil One oil out there in regards to heat. The ASTM test data is at 4.2 vs Mobil One at 10.4. Lower is better. That might cure the oil usage and I'd certainly suggest it next oil change.
ASTM D5800 test results are available at most oil makers websites and at PQIA.
Your factory oil spec calls for the oil to be a 5w-20. You can easily run the 10w-30 oils and Ford has numerous memos out for users to use a 15w-40 for those with noisy valve trains. Using the 10w-30 Pennzoil should result in no loss of gas mileage but you might restore some of the oil to the ring packs if the lower bearings are worn. These low ring tension engines are also notorious for sticking rings. The Pennzoil has a pretty decent additive package and can free these sticking rings if that is the issue. All 10w oils are rated down to minus 25C or minus 13F.

 

Again, which yellow bottle? Pennzoil has 7 different oils and all of them are in a yellow bottle now.

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum

Pennzoil Platinum

Pennzoil Platinum Euro

Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage

Pennzoil Gold

Pennzoil High Mileage

Pennzoil Motor Oil

 

 

https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/produ...ventional.html ?

 

@Labnerd Wished I read your post before I headed out to Wal-Mart last night. I had went and got Pennzoil Full Syn Platinum High Mileage 5w30. I had contemplated before about getting 10w30 because of consistent balmy weather condition we have in our neck of the woods. On a side note, I had pulled out the other VCT solenoid (driver side) last night and upon pulling out the valve seal cap I had noticed oil had been caked up over the years. Gives me an idea of how the previous shops mave have put in cheap oil during its oil changes. Perhaps I should give Auto-Rx & 10w30 a try on my next oil change.

 

You did okay - the Pennzoil Platinum is one of the best synthetics out there.

Order some AutoRX and do the sludge treatment next oil change.

 

I sure did...~$30 shipped to my door for one bottle though!?! This stuff better work. I currently have Mobil1 full syn 5w30 w/ MC oil filter. So I'm probably going to try Penzoil full syn high mileage platinum 10w30 this time along with a Motorcraft Oil Filter.

 

So I received my Auto-RX bottle and got some Pennzoil 10w-30 full-syn platinum oil (7qts). Upon warming up the engine prior to draining the oil pan I noticed smoke coming out of oil fillup tube when i removed the cap. I knew this wasn't going to be good. Drained the oil pan and came out pretty dark and burnt smelling only after ~2000 miles after the previous oil change. I had used Mobil 1 5w30 full syn then. After full drain and oil filter change I had only about ~4qts in the drain pan. Keep in mind, I had added 2 qts of oil prior to the oil change too. So basically I was running on low oil for some time! Anyhow, I got the new stuff in there now plus the Auto RX. @Labnerd what you said about Mobil1 is true in my case and looking forward to Pennzoil products to be a game changer for me. So far my engine is running smoother and I don't hear the "diesel" sound after starting it back up after it has already warmed up anymore. I will be monitoring the oil usage from here on now. Thanks everyone for the advice and recs.