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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 09:08 PM
  #31  
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From: Lehigh Valley, Pa
Originally Posted by JERU
Actually, price is not indicative of performance nor quality. It is ultimately a function of what the market will accept. You are referring to quality perception based on price, which is a great way to lose your money. You are a Marketing dream come true. Its why nobody shops hospitals for cost. The perception is the higher cost the better. Which is laughable. The majority of people have no clue why a product cost what it does.

Two companies making identical products can have completely different price points. Labor, overhead, raw material cost, Marketing and automation affect the price more than the actual product.

I am a Senior Mechanical Engineer who has turned over many products to the Marketing group and dropped my jaw at the prices they are able to get. Why? Because all they have to provide is perception. Lets give it a bright color and charge 50% more.

Unless you have comparison tests, reliability studies and raw input cost data, your use of price as a barometer for performance and quality is questionable if two items have the same specs and different prices (if specs are different, all bets are off).

A friend and I were in a supermarket and she wanted a bottle of water. She grabbed the most expensive one on the shelf. I asked her why, she said "it must be better". Its water...but her reasoning is the default now... But it is your (and her) money to spend...


Very correct! I work for a company that makes the orange programmable construction signs. We have a battery cable that we make it uses 6" of 8 gauge wire and 2 ring terminals. Total production cost is $0.26. We sell them for $56 EACH. I almost went through the roof when I read that the other day. I dont know who comes up with those numbers, but they are ridiculous.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 03:56 AM
  #32  
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From: So. Cal.
Originally Posted by 05RedFX4
Just got back from taking the wife down to the dealer to pick up her car, the battery died in her 08 fusion w/10K miles on it. From the looks of it ford uses junk batteries in all their vehicles, not just the trucks.
Amen to that!
 
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 04:11 AM
  #33  
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From: So. Cal.
Originally Posted by Bdt 1967
Mine showed 70 percent on my home tester but wouldn't start the truck, it would roll it over but not fast enough, it still tested good, but wasn't. It was 4.5 years old also, with 65,000 on the ticker, I am sure it didn't help having the amp and sub on it.
Bdt- I'm curious as to what kind of home tester you have. Some people test with a DVM or something similar and say "it had good voltage, I don't understand why it won't start". I'm not saying that's what you used, that's why I asked. My brother asked me to test the battery in his '05 Camry about a month ago because he'd had to jump it twice in a row. He drove down (about 20 min. drive) and when he shut it off, it wouldn't even click the solenoid. I used my OTC tester on it and it showed 12.76V and 0 CCA's. All the voltage in the world in a battery won't do you any good if you can't get it out! If you only test voltage, that battery was in topped off condition. I have a carbon pile tester that I use sometimes, to confirm what the OTC has shown, but they virtually always agree.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 04:14 AM
  #34  
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From: So. Cal.
Originally Posted by LouisianaLariat
but my battery has a flux compacitor...
Yea and I bet that battery struts around proud as a pea**** that it has that compacitor.... and has no idea what to do with it!
 
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 09:56 AM
  #35  
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From: Wichita KS
Originally Posted by code58
Bdt- I'm curious as to what kind of home tester you have. Some people test with a DVM or something similar and say "it had good voltage, I don't understand why it won't start". I'm not saying that's what you used, that's why I asked. My brother asked me to test the battery in his '05 Camry about a month ago because he'd had to jump it twice in a row. He drove down (about 20 min. drive) and when he shut it off, it wouldn't even click the solenoid. I used my OTC tester on it and it showed 12.76V and 0 CCA's. All the voltage in the world in a battery won't do you any good if you can't get it out! If you only test voltage, that battery was in topped off condition. I have a carbon pile tester that I use sometimes, to confirm what the OTC has shown, but they virtually always agree.
I am not sure what specific algorithm it uses to calculate the batteries condition, but the device I am using is a SCHUMACHER ELECTRIC SC-6500A, it has a battery test setting, it somehow is supposed to say what condition the battery is in by giving a numeric percentage. And honestly I have no idea if its accurate at all. I also took the battery to AutoZone and they said it was good. This weekend I plan to look into it a little closer. My dads F150 is a year older than mine and his battery is still running strong 80 on the ticker. I told him it could go any day.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 11:58 PM
  #36  
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From: Augusta, GA
Originally Posted by code58
GT- what test did it pass with flying colors? Fords Midtronics test? That's bogus as a $3. bill. I wish I had a nickel for everyone i've read about who's Motorcraft battery (under warrantee) passed with flying colors, but wouldn't turn the truck over or even hold a charge overnight. Ford gets out of buying a lot of batteries that way. SICK!
The simple test at the local Advamce Auto Parts. Obviously not reliable.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 12:03 AM
  #37  
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From: Augusta, GA
Originally Posted by JERU
I think you missed a few key points:


2) So you basically have alot of companies private labeling the same battery. Walmart does not make batteries, they resell them a lower price point than other companies. In a few instances they can keep the price low because "you" install the battery and they don't have to have an Auto Shop employee paid to do it.
That may be. But from personal expirience with Walmart batteries, and taking them back for a new one WAY before they should be going back, I will not be buying one again.

Originally Posted by JERU
3) If a company has to replace anything under warranty, their profit margin goes down. Companies don't last long. Long warranties equate to company confidence in a product.
Agreed 100%. And the 84 month warranty on that Interstate makes me think good things about it. I have yet to see a warranty that comes close to touching it.

Originally Posted by JERU
5) I don't need a battery to look good, have a flashy case or provide 18 Jigawatts of power. Just start my truck for roughly 4 years and I will buy a new one.
Different folks have different uses. With the way I use my truck, I tend to need more than "just enough to crank the truck". And I like planning for the future instead of having to upgrade later.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 04:04 AM
  #38  
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From: So. Cal.
=GTRider245;3890973]That may be. But from personal expirience with Walmart batteries, and taking them back for a new one WAY before they should be going back, I will not be buying one again.



Agreed 100%. And the 84 month warranty on that Interstate makes me think good things about it. I have yet to see a warranty that comes close to touching it.
Actually GT- there are a lot of batteries now that have a 100 mo. warranty (pro-rated) and free for the 1st 36 mo. I'm not saying those batteries are any good, and I'll guarantee you most of them probably aren't going to come close to lasting 100 mo. I also agree with the evaluation of Wal Mart batteries. Thought the better ones have that 3 yr free and 100 mo warranty. I think Interstate is probably a good bet. I run Costco's Kirkland brand, not because I think they're any better than anyone else's mediocre battery (they're made by Johnson controls), but simply because they have an excellent warrantee and they don't give you a hassle when you need one warranteed. The days of really high quality batteries is for a large part gone.
 

Last edited by code58; Sep 19, 2009 at 04:08 AM.
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 04:29 AM
  #39  
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From: So. Cal.
Originally Posted by Bdt 1967
I am not sure what specific algorithm it uses to calculate the batteries condition, but the device I am using is a SCHUMACHER ELECTRIC SC-6500A, it has a battery test setting, it somehow is supposed to say what condition the battery is in by giving a numeric percentage. And honestly I have no idea if its accurate at all. I also took the battery to AutoZone and they said it was good. This weekend I plan to look into it a little closer. My dads F150 is a year older than mine and his battery is still running strong 80 on the ticker. I told him it could go any day.
Bdt- I looked it up on the Schumacher site and they don't really get into technical details about the charger. I suspicion it uses the conductance method, which I seriously question. For eons the carbon pile load test was the gold standard. I still trust it more than most any other type of testers. I use the OTC more but when the chips are down, I don't think there's any way the CP will fail you. It's an actual real world test, not a phony conductance test which is SUPPOSED to be accurate, but I think often is bogus. The people who designed the test have blown smoke in the eyes of the people who actually test the batteries for pass/fail and stand by their statement "there's nothing wrong with your battery" when it won't start the truck and won't hold a charge overnight. SAD!
 
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 11:40 PM
  #40  
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From: Myrtle Beach sc
my 05 motorcraft battery showed no signs of needing replacement until I stopped off for cigs one night then put the key in the ignition and heard a loud pop then everything went dead. I bought a auto zone 935 cc amp to replace the 635cc amp Motorcraft had no problems
 
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 11:55 PM
  #41  
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From: Glide, OR
I'm still a fan of the Optima Red top... Here is mine...

 
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 05:49 AM
  #42  
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From: Rhode Island
Originally Posted by jdruzik
I'm still a fan of the Optima Red top... Here is mine...

Me too! I have one of the older ones made in the States, it has been bulletproof!...........
 
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