Handle covers PTM
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 300
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From: Honolulu, HAWAII BABY!!!!!
It's white, you probably can't tell. 
Maybe wait a little to let the paint dry up, then hit it with a little polish.
Also, you should probably get an overlay for the Ford emblem to better go with the handles. Maybe white and chrome? Not sure what the rest of your truck looks like.
Maybe wait a little to let the paint dry up, then hit it with a little polish.Also, you should probably get an overlay for the Ford emblem to better go with the handles. Maybe white and chrome? Not sure what the rest of your truck looks like.
Last edited by 808TritonXL; Feb 28, 2010 at 03:02 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 300
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From: Honolulu, HAWAII BABY!!!!!
Okay...I just ordered some chrome inlays..
I was thinking bout making the back black, but I haven't seen any white background...so I'll go with the suggestion by ELVATO....
1-2weeks before I get it...I think I'll hit the white next weekend. I gotta buy more paint..lol!!
I was thinking bout making the back black, but I haven't seen any white background...so I'll go with the suggestion by ELVATO....
1-2weeks before I get it...I think I'll hit the white next weekend. I gotta buy more paint..lol!!
Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 62
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From: Plano, TX
You can get a new set shipped for 30 off ebay. Buy a roll of the 3m auto heavy duty emblem tape from your auto parts store and apply more tape as the tape they put on them isn't enough for long term apps.
Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 62
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From: Plano, TX
I went the same route as several others did that posted on here - 600 & 1500 grit sandpapers, adhesion promoter, duplicolor paint & clear and extra 3m tape.
The supplies:
Sanded down to where they looked like brushed aluminum:
Shot 5 coats of base coat and later came back with 4 coats of clear:
Up-Close shot of the end result:
Final look of the handles installed on the truck - all in all - very pleased with the outcome - took a bit longer than I thought they may but I took my time shooting coats and letting them sit overnight before colorsanding them down before shooting the clear.
The supplies:
Sanded down to where they looked like brushed aluminum:
Shot 5 coats of base coat and later came back with 4 coats of clear:
Up-Close shot of the end result:
Final look of the handles installed on the truck - all in all - very pleased with the outcome - took a bit longer than I thought they may but I took my time shooting coats and letting them sit overnight before colorsanding them down before shooting the clear.
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Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 0
From: Olive Branch, MS
3M makes an adhesive remover. I have used it on molding tape before and it works OK. You really have to hit it with several coats and let it sit for 30 minutes or so for it to have time to work. That and hot air from a hair dryer or heat gun is my best suggestion. If you use the heat gun be careful not to melt anything though!
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 104
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From: Macon GA
Heres a tip I learned from a bodyshop. Ford uses different color primers under different color paints. On a Cardinal Red or a Oxford White the primer is white. If you did a PTM and the color is slightly off its probley because you didnt use primer or used a gray or red primer.
When you get ready to PTM call a bodyshop or automotive paint store and find out what color primer to use. On my red Mustang I had to get the primer in a spray can from an automotive paint store. $10 but it color matched perfect.
Once you get the basecoat on, I take the part to a bodyshop and have them clearcoat it. It lasts much longer than spraycan clear, and Ive never been charged more than $25.
On my XL I have to use the keyhole and the clear holds up much better.
When you get ready to PTM call a bodyshop or automotive paint store and find out what color primer to use. On my red Mustang I had to get the primer in a spray can from an automotive paint store. $10 but it color matched perfect.
Once you get the basecoat on, I take the part to a bodyshop and have them clearcoat it. It lasts much longer than spraycan clear, and Ive never been charged more than $25.
On my XL I have to use the keyhole and the clear holds up much better.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 107
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From: Hartford, CT
When you guys apply the extra 3m tape, do you apply it on top of what comes on the handles? Or, do you remove what is there, and re-apply?
My handles should arrive today, so I at least have a project for this cold rainy weekend.
My handles should arrive today, so I at least have a project for this cold rainy weekend.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 259
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I'm doing this right now, all silver, handles and buckets. Looks just like a factory paint job, if you put the time and effort into it.
I'm **** about it, so it's taking me a long time. This is what I do..
1) 2 coats of adhesion promotor (if paintable black -- if chrome, sand to dull first).
2) 4 coats of color (then wetsand with 2000 grit until the paint texture is smooth, no 'orange peel'), let dry 24 hours.
3) hand-buff with a simple car wax until it shines like a mirror
4) 2 coats of clear when you're happy with the paint finish.
5) Hand-buff again with wax, but wait a couple days after clear coat is dried.
I only finished one handle/bucket so far, but it looks like a factory paint job. The key is to get the paint flat with the wetsanding/buffing. Use a light very close to your work so you can see the texture of the finish. You should be able to see the reflection of the light bulb itself in the finish clearly...if it gets distorted, the paint is still bumpy and needs more wetsanding/buffing. Be careful around the corners and edges, as the paint will come off a lot faster/easier there.
I'm **** about it, so it's taking me a long time. This is what I do..
1) 2 coats of adhesion promotor (if paintable black -- if chrome, sand to dull first).
2) 4 coats of color (then wetsand with 2000 grit until the paint texture is smooth, no 'orange peel'), let dry 24 hours.
3) hand-buff with a simple car wax until it shines like a mirror
4) 2 coats of clear when you're happy with the paint finish.
5) Hand-buff again with wax, but wait a couple days after clear coat is dried.
I only finished one handle/bucket so far, but it looks like a factory paint job. The key is to get the paint flat with the wetsanding/buffing. Use a light very close to your work so you can see the texture of the finish. You should be able to see the reflection of the light bulb itself in the finish clearly...if it gets distorted, the paint is still bumpy and needs more wetsanding/buffing. Be careful around the corners and edges, as the paint will come off a lot faster/easier there.
Last edited by shibby2; Mar 12, 2010 at 02:28 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,309
Likes: 0
I'm doing this right now, all silver, handles and buckets. Looks just like a factory paint job, if you put the time and effort into it.
I'm **** about it, so it's taking me a long time. This is what I do..
1) 2 coats of adhesion promotor
2) 4 coats of color (then wetsand with 2000 grit until the paint texture is smooth, no 'orange peel'), let dry 24 hours.
3) hand-buff with a simple car wax until it shines like a mirror
4) 2 coats of clear when you're happy with the paint finish.
5) Hand-buff again with wax, but wait a couple days after clear coat is dried.
I only finished one handle/bucket so far, but it looks like a factory paint job. The key is to get the paint flat with the wetsanding/buffing. Use a light very close to your work so you can see the texture of the finish. You should be able to see the light bulb itself in the finish clearly...if it gets distorted, the paint is still bumpy and needs more wetsanding/buffing. Be careful around the corners and edges, as the paint will come off a lot faster/easier there.
I'm **** about it, so it's taking me a long time. This is what I do..
1) 2 coats of adhesion promotor
2) 4 coats of color (then wetsand with 2000 grit until the paint texture is smooth, no 'orange peel'), let dry 24 hours.
3) hand-buff with a simple car wax until it shines like a mirror
4) 2 coats of clear when you're happy with the paint finish.
5) Hand-buff again with wax, but wait a couple days after clear coat is dried.
I only finished one handle/bucket so far, but it looks like a factory paint job. The key is to get the paint flat with the wetsanding/buffing. Use a light very close to your work so you can see the texture of the finish. You should be able to see the light bulb itself in the finish clearly...if it gets distorted, the paint is still bumpy and needs more wetsanding/buffing. Be careful around the corners and edges, as the paint will come off a lot faster/easier there.
Won't the waxing before you clear hinder the way the paint will adhere?
Can't wait to see the finished pics!!
