2004 - 2008 F-150

IWE's: Removal & Replacing

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  #16  
Old 01-19-2009, 08:02 AM
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I expect mine to fail at some point. I had the solenoid go bad I think 4 times causing the hubs to grind. For the last year it has worked perfect but I know some damage has been done. Now I just have to wait to see if anything happens in future.

I still wish manual locking hubs were an option and to think of it a manual tranny would be nice too but oh well.

Btw. TN150 do you have recommend repair shops in the area? The older I get the more lazy I'm getting about doing my own repairs. I've already had a couple bad experiences and 2 different shops. Thanks
 
  #17  
Old 01-19-2009, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by dkstone05
I expect mine to fail at some point. I had the solenoid go bad I think 4 times causing the hubs to grind. For the last year it has worked perfect but I know some damage has been done. Now I just have to wait to see if anything happens in future.

I still wish manual locking hubs were an option and to think of it a manual tranny would be nice too but oh well.

Btw. TN150 do you have recommend repair shops in the area? The older I get the more lazy I'm getting about doing my own repairs. I've already had a couple bad experiences and 2 different shops. Thanks
Actually, I have been using Pearson Ford Quick Lane for oil changes and had not had any recent dealing with the service dept until we moved back here in June. I wasn't impressed with them. I'm pretty picky because I've been in the business and I know when I'm being snookered and they don't know that I know, ya know? They use the "Joe don't know" words on me but I know how it all works. The guys there are short and "I know what I'm talking about" with their answers. The customer can't possibly know more than us kind of attitude. Example of dealer knowledge, I went in one day to the sales floor and asked about the Raptor F150 and they had NO CLUE! It's all over the net and they were oblivious! They don't even know their own products. I knew more about it than they did...as with most dealers.

Seriously though, I was talking to my wife the other night about how I wish I could find a good independent Tech who has an interest in keeping my business and being honest. I don't have any names yet but as soon as I find one I will share. I'm willing to do the work myself but it's getting harder and harder to get up the next day after bending and pulling and all. I'm at the gym every single day but working on my truck makes me hurt in different ways.
 
  #18  
Old 01-19-2009, 08:42 AM
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BTW...it was 9 degrees this morning and on my way to work, I hear the dreaded noise! I flipped it to 4HI real quick and will have to due some more testing. I think it's the other side, or I have water in the lines and will have to spray some WD-40 through to clear it out. Either way, it's not 100% fixed yet.
 
  #19  
Old 01-19-2009, 09:36 AM
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Damn sorry to here it's still not fixed 100% yet.

Pearson has treated me pretty good well that is after they got rid one of the service writers up front in there department. I forgot the guys name but he was about as arrogant and incompetent as they come.

Anyway I usually go through a guy named Scott up front in the service area (we are on first name basis anymore). I had them change my plugs out at 35k miles to the Champions. I talked to Scott and the service manager (the name escapes but is a nice guy) about the possibility of breaking plugs and both of them were pretty knowledgeable on it. It turns out that I had 3 plugs break and they spent most of the day on the truck getting them out and didn't try to charge me any extra. I recently had to go back in there because of a misfire and it turned out to be one of the champion plugs causing the problem...so I wouldn't recommend the champion plugs.

Don't go to Miller's Auto Care in Carmel. I had them put the 5100 shocks on my truck this summer and they ripped a hole in one of the CV boots. I went back the next day to try to get them to fix it and they pleaded the 5th saying there was no way they could have done it but offered me a slightly discounted rate on fixing it. Kind of like we are not going to flat out admit we screwed up but we'll give you $XXX off the repair cause we know we messed up but don't want to eat the whole cost. So I politely told them where they could put their discounted rate. Plus when I looked at the install they must have lost one of the top nuts that goes on the shock and put some old rusty nut on it without the nylon locking ring so it came loose within a week.

I too will let you know if I find and independent shop around that has reasonable labor rates.
 

Last edited by dkstone05; 01-19-2009 at 09:44 AM.
  #20  
Old 01-19-2009, 10:02 AM
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I just droped my truck off at the dealer this morning for the same issue, I replace the IWE Solenoid last year around this time and now i am have the grinding (Not the tin can or chain dragging noise that i had last year) that you speak of. The shop called me about half an hour ago and told me it was the solenoid again so i guess when i get pick it up this afternoon i will find out if they were right and the IWE's are just junk. BTW... the grinding was only happening in the mornings intermittently for the first mile or so at first when the temp was about 5 degrees outside and once it warmed up throughout the day it wouldn't do it. But Sat. it was 3-4 degrees for most of the day and the problem kept happening all day, just to comfirm your temp related theory.
 
  #21  
Old 01-19-2009, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by dkstone05
Damn sorry to here it's still not fixed 100% yet.

Pearson has treated me pretty good well that is after they got rid one of the service writers up front in there department. I forgot the guys name but he was about as arrogant and incompetent as they come.


Don't go to Miller's Auto Care in Carmel. I had them put the 5100 shocks on my truck this summer and they ripped a hole in one of the CV boots. I went back the next day to try to get them to fix it and they pleaded the 5th saying there was no way they could have done it but offered me a slightly discounted rate on fixing it. Kind of like we are not going to flat out admit we screwed up but we'll give you $XXX off the repair cause we know we messed up but don't want to eat the whole cost. So I politely told them where they could put their discounted rate. Plus when I looked at the install they must have lost one of the top nuts that goes on the shock and put some old rusty nut on it without the nylon locking ring so it came loose within a week.

I too will let you know if I find and independent shop around that has reasonable labor rates.
I've kinda had a sore feeling with Ford and Pearson since about 2003. We had a 2000 Explorer Sport that had the transmission go out at 39k miles and Pearson said Ford would not cover it. I was like, C'mon it's 3k miles out...AND this is a known problem with NUMEROUS Explorers. I felt like Pearson didn't try hard enough to get Ford to fix it. It was a great truck up to and after that but it just left a bad feeling. I go there now just because they are closest. I don't really care for any of the service guys and will more than likely use only the Quick Lane for oil changes.

That's good to know about Miller's. That's the kind of place I want to avoid. Probably all guys who THINK they are Mechanics because they can spell it.
 
  #22  
Old 01-19-2009, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by BG-BULLY05
I just droped my truck off at the dealer this morning for the same issue, I replace the IWE Solenoid last year around this time and now i am have the grinding (Not the tin can or chain dragging noise that i had last year) that you speak of. The shop called me about half an hour ago and told me it was the solenoid again so i guess when i get pick it up this afternoon i will find out if they were right and the IWE's are just junk. BTW... the grinding was only happening in the mornings intermittently for the first mile or so at first when the temp was about 5 degrees outside and once it warmed up throughout the day it wouldn't do it. But Sat. it was 3-4 degrees for most of the day and the problem kept happening all day, just to comfirm your temp related theory.
Yup...mine does it below 20 degrees.
 
  #23  
Old 01-19-2009, 07:07 PM
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thanks for the pictures. very informative.


figure out what is causing the grinding now? On the drivers valve cover almost below the brake booster there is a 4x4 vacuum line that taps off...I think it is the one that supplies the solenoid. you might want to give it a look and see if it's damaged

I had no idea there were so many stupid vacuum lines until recently when I pulled my intake off. those suckers are everywhere on our trucks, and many are near hot items
 
  #24  
Old 01-19-2009, 08:30 PM
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Title repaired.

(Next time PM a mod for quicker results. )
 
  #25  
Old 01-19-2009, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Stealth
Title repaired.

(Next time PM a mod for quicker results. )
stealth, you stole my thunder telling him how to fix it!

you give a man a fish you feed him for a day, teach a man to fish and he is fed for life.(something like that) you did the first one, ole humble me taught the man to fish dammit!
 
  #26  
Old 01-19-2009, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 06yz250f
stealth, you stole my thunder telling him how to fix it!

you give a man a fish you feed him for a day, teach a man to fish and he is fed for life.(something like that) you did the first one, ole humble me taught the man to fish dammit!
I fixed it first. Besides you guys can't edit the title once it's posted.
 
  #27  
Old 01-19-2009, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Stealth
I fixed it first. Besides you guys can't edit the title once it's posted.
why do i have the option then if i edit my first post, go advanced it gives me the ability to change the title. i will go change the title on my thread in the GD right now just to check and hopefully prove you wrong

edit: dangit! it allows u to change the title in the thread but not the actual title.

ok back to your topic sorry for the hijack lol
 

Last edited by 06yz250f; 01-19-2009 at 10:16 PM.
  #28  
Old 01-19-2009, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Tylus
thanks for the pictures. very informative.


figure out what is causing the grinding now? On the drivers valve cover almost below the brake booster there is a 4x4 vacuum line that taps off...I think it is the one that supplies the solenoid. you might want to give it a look and see if it's damaged

I had no idea there were so many stupid vacuum lines until recently when I pulled my intake off. those suckers are everywhere on our trucks, and many are near hot items
I did! It's the other side actuator! I almost ordered 2 and changed my mind at the last minute. I guess I'll be changing the other. I'll check the vacuum line too, but I think they are fine. It switches fine between 2 and 4WD, in fact this time it has not gone out. I drove up next to the Costco building to hear which one was making the noise and there was some heavy snow there so I punched it to see it the front was locking and it definitely is. I know the vacuum lines to the actuators are a crazy set up from what I've seen in pictures.
 
  #29  
Old 01-19-2009, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 06yz250f
why do i have the option then if i edit my first post, go advanced it gives me the ability to change the title. i will go change the title on my thread in the GD right now just to check and hopefully prove you wrong

edit: dangit! it allows u to change the title in the thread but not the actual title.

ok back to your topic sorry for the hijack lol
Told you so.
 
  #30  
Old 01-19-2009, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Stealth
Title repaired.

(Next time PM a mod for quicker results. )
Cool thanks! I wasn't sure who was a mod and couldn't find a link to contact but thanks...I thought it was pretty quick once I realized my booboo.
 


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