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does anyone have an unmounted rotor?

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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 04:19 PM
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does anyone have an unmounted rotor?

a front 2wd, if so could you please tell me the number on the bearing. one of my front wheel bearings is starting to go out and i want to attempt to replace the bearing instead of buying the whole rotor
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by azmidget91
a front 2wd, if so could you please tell me the number on the bearing. one of my front wheel bearings is starting to go out and i want to attempt to replace the bearing instead of buying the whole rotor
I have an OEM at home. If no one replies before I can look at it tonight, I'll see what is on it.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 04:29 PM
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thanks blue....i pulled off the wheel today and the rotor wobbles a bit.....i also sent the guy who said he changed his a message but he hasnt been on in a month.....and i just cant afford to replace my perfectly good rotors
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 04:35 PM
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I had one bearing start making noise at 41,000, so I changed out both of them, threw away the bad one and kept the one that had a good bearing. Both rotors were still near perfect. The design is a shame. I have put 40,000 on these new ones, no problem so far. They are Raybestos and were heavier all over than the OEM.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluejay
I had one bearing start making noise at 41,000, so I changed out both of them, threw away the bad one and kept the one that had a good bearing. Both rotors were still near perfect. The design is a shame. I have put 40,000 on these new ones, no problem so far. They are Raybestos and were heavier all over than the OEM.
yeah same here had one go at about 40k replaced both, but i threw away both, kicking my self now for that, and now at 110k the same one (drivers side) is going out, if i had the old passenger side one i could swap that on while i attempt to replace the bearing and if it didnt work i would be able to drive if i had to while i ordered rotors from a rotor company that appears to be out of business now...........
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 05:48 PM
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ok so now im thinking maybe i should try to re torque the spindle nut, maybe it came a little loose, it does look like the bearing moves a little when i wobble the rotor, and by wobble i mean like 1/32" it doesnt seem raced out, spins kinda smooth, i just wish this happened 6 months ago, the rotors have a 1 year warranty

and from what i could read on the bearing, with the nut still on it says jrm4500-sc but couldnt find a bearing to match....

so should i pull the rotor and try to jam some grease in the bearing and reinstall? should i just torque it down as it sits now? should i not do anything because it would just make it worse?

o and i was too cheap to buy the new nut when i put these rotors on fyi
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 05:55 PM
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They'er supposed to be sealed, and non lubed. I doubt you could work enough grease into the bearings to do any good. I reused the nuts as well and have 40,000 with no problems. As for the nuts, I don't see why they have to be replaced anyway, since they hace a big cotter pin.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluejay
They'er supposed to be sealed, and non lubed. I doubt you could work enough grease into the bearings to do any good. I reused the nuts as well and have 40,000 with no problems. As for the nuts, I don't see why they have to be replaced anyway, since they hace a big cotter pin.
the cotter pin doesnt go through the nut, and its a nyloc nut so if it get over heated or you use an impact to get it off most likely it will loose some of its locking abilities
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by azmidget91
the cotter pin doesnt go through the nut, and its a nyloc nut so if it get over heated or you use an impact to get it off most likely it will loose some of its locking abilities
But, the cotter pin thru the cap keeps the nut from backing off.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluejay
But, the cotter pin thru the cap keeps the nut from backing off.
yes it will keep it from coming off but there is plenty of "slack" in it so that it can come loose, which i think is what happened in my case....i torqued it to 250(ford recommends 296 but 250 is the highest my torqure wrench will go) and it was not tight....
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by azmidget91
yeah same here had one go at about 40k replaced both, but i threw away both, kicking my self now for that, and now at 110k the same one (drivers side) is going out, if i had the old passenger side one i could swap that on while i attempt to replace the bearing and if it didnt work i would be able to drive if i had to while i ordered rotors from a rotor company that appears to be out of business now...........
Their Ebay store appears to still be functional.

Here you go: http://stores.ebay.com/ROTORPROS
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 08:33 PM
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azmidget...your a 2wd right?

that nut isn't re-useable. the bearing seal is integral to it. Ford Tech Manual says to replace with a new one each time to ensure it seals properly

sounds like the seal was crushed from the 1st time around and the new bearing was never properly held in place...sucks
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 10:24 PM
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The email on their eBay doesn't work...I emailer them earlier and it got sent back

And I don't think the bearing is bad the driverside is the side that would get loosened by the rotation of the tire, I think it just came a little loose, and I'm sure reusing the nut didn't help but I've driven on it and it seems to be ok
 
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 11:22 PM
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I dunno why Ford didn't just make it like most any other vehicles, and use an regular packed bearing, rather than an integrated rotor hub bearing method...
 
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 09:56 AM
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Ok, the bearing is a Timken. It is a very strange looking bearing that is totally sealed, there is no way to lube it. Engraved on it is "Do not disassemble", right next to the ring clip that holds it in. Also engraved on it is the number JRM 4500 SC and then stamped on it is the number JRM 4549 CS. I know the one guy says there is a bearing repair kit you can buy for about $80, but I have not been able to locate it.

It is a very unusual bearing as it is several inches thick. Not your normal bearing seals either.
 
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Last edited by Bluejay; Jan 14, 2009 at 09:58 AM.
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