Brake pedal noise - creaking - very annoying
#1
Brake pedal noise - creaking - very annoying
I've got a very annoying creaking noise coming from my brake pedal when depressing it. The harder it is depressed, the louder the creaking noise is. I've searched the forums to no avail.
Today, I took the brake pedal linkage apart, greased the bushings. I then removed the master cylinder from the power booster. Moved the power booster to my workbench and inspected all thoroughly. It must be an internal noise coming from the booster. I put some lithium grease on the rod and greased the felt seals that go around the rod. Reinstalled all but the noise continues.
Got frustrated, took it all apart again, this time sprayed some Kroil up inside the booster. Moved on to the master cylinder. Pushed the piston up in the master cylinder slightly, sprayed Kroil up in that. Nothing remains that hasn't been lubricated. Creaking remains.
Any recommendations or anyone that has had a similar problem? A reman. booster costs about $110-150. Am 90% sure it is coming from the booster but there is a slight chance it could be coming from the master cylinder. Thoughts?
Today, I took the brake pedal linkage apart, greased the bushings. I then removed the master cylinder from the power booster. Moved the power booster to my workbench and inspected all thoroughly. It must be an internal noise coming from the booster. I put some lithium grease on the rod and greased the felt seals that go around the rod. Reinstalled all but the noise continues.
Got frustrated, took it all apart again, this time sprayed some Kroil up inside the booster. Moved on to the master cylinder. Pushed the piston up in the master cylinder slightly, sprayed Kroil up in that. Nothing remains that hasn't been lubricated. Creaking remains.
Any recommendations or anyone that has had a similar problem? A reman. booster costs about $110-150. Am 90% sure it is coming from the booster but there is a slight chance it could be coming from the master cylinder. Thoughts?
#3
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#6
I've got a very annoying creaking noise coming from my brake pedal when depressing it. The harder it is depressed, the louder the creaking noise is. I've searched the forums to no avail.
Today, I took the brake pedal linkage apart, greased the bushings. I then removed the master cylinder from the power booster. Moved the power booster to my workbench and inspected all thoroughly. It must be an internal noise coming from the booster. I put some lithium grease on the rod and greased the felt seals that go around the rod. Reinstalled all but the noise continues.
Got frustrated, took it all apart again, this time sprayed some Kroil up inside the booster. Moved on to the master cylinder. Pushed the piston up in the master cylinder slightly, sprayed Kroil up in that. Nothing remains that hasn't been lubricated. Creaking remains.
Any recommendations or anyone that has had a similar problem? A reman. booster costs about $110-150. Am 90% sure it is coming from the booster but there is a slight chance it could be coming from the master cylinder. Thoughts?
Today, I took the brake pedal linkage apart, greased the bushings. I then removed the master cylinder from the power booster. Moved the power booster to my workbench and inspected all thoroughly. It must be an internal noise coming from the booster. I put some lithium grease on the rod and greased the felt seals that go around the rod. Reinstalled all but the noise continues.
Got frustrated, took it all apart again, this time sprayed some Kroil up inside the booster. Moved on to the master cylinder. Pushed the piston up in the master cylinder slightly, sprayed Kroil up in that. Nothing remains that hasn't been lubricated. Creaking remains.
Any recommendations or anyone that has had a similar problem? A reman. booster costs about $110-150. Am 90% sure it is coming from the booster but there is a slight chance it could be coming from the master cylinder. Thoughts?
#7
I've got a very annoying creaking noise coming from my brake pedal when depressing it. The harder it is depressed, the louder the creaking noise is. I've searched the forums to no avail.
Today, I took the brake pedal linkage apart, greased the bushings. I then removed the master cylinder from the power booster. Moved the power booster to my workbench and inspected all thoroughly. It must be an internal noise coming from the booster. I put some lithium grease on the rod and greased the felt seals that go around the rod. Reinstalled all but the noise continues.
Got frustrated, took it all apart again, this time sprayed some Kroil up inside the booster. Moved on to the master cylinder. Pushed the piston up in the master cylinder slightly, sprayed Kroil up in that. Nothing remains that hasn't been lubricated. Creaking remains.
Any recommendations or anyone that has had a similar problem? A reman. booster costs about $110-150. Am 90% sure it is coming from the booster but there is a slight chance it could be coming from the master cylinder. Thoughts?
Today, I took the brake pedal linkage apart, greased the bushings. I then removed the master cylinder from the power booster. Moved the power booster to my workbench and inspected all thoroughly. It must be an internal noise coming from the booster. I put some lithium grease on the rod and greased the felt seals that go around the rod. Reinstalled all but the noise continues.
Got frustrated, took it all apart again, this time sprayed some Kroil up inside the booster. Moved on to the master cylinder. Pushed the piston up in the master cylinder slightly, sprayed Kroil up in that. Nothing remains that hasn't been lubricated. Creaking remains.
Any recommendations or anyone that has had a similar problem? A reman. booster costs about $110-150. Am 90% sure it is coming from the booster but there is a slight chance it could be coming from the master cylinder. Thoughts?
Kroil is a mineral oil.
https://secure.cnchost.com/kanolabs....oil_liquid.pdf
(at least I'm 95% sure its mineral oil based on the above link to the MSDS sheet)
Mineral oil DESTROYS the master cylinder and booster. It is only a matter of time till your seals fail. Potentially all the seals will fail depending on how much oil you sprayed into the master cylinder.
This is for real - I design and test master cylinders. The seals are made of EPDM rubber since EPDM stands up to brake fluid. But when exposed to mineral oil the EPDM swells up and gets soft. The booster diaphragms are EPDM and so are all the seals in the MC. Its a crapshoot to see which fails first.
You need to get a new booster and master cylinder.
Do NOT drive your truck till you replace them. You also need to thouroughly flush the entire brake system and then hope you didn't get enough oil exposure to trash your ABS or wheel calipers.
Again, this is not a joke. I am a master cylinder engineer. This is very serious and you could have a full brake system failure - there are 2 circuits but if you trash both sets of seals by spraying Kroil into the MC you loose all braking.
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#8
STOP DRIVING YOUR TRUCK
Kroil is a mineral oil.
https://secure.cnchost.com/kanolabs....oil_liquid.pdf
(at least I'm 95% sure its mineral oil based on the above link to the MSDS sheet)
Mineral oil DESTROYS the master cylinder and booster. It is only a matter of time till your seals fail. Potentially all the seals will fail depending on how much oil you sprayed into the master cylinder.
This is for real - I design and test master cylinders. The seals are made of EPDM rubber since EPDM stands up to brake fluid. But when exposed to mineral oil the EPDM swells up and gets soft. The booster diaphragms are EPDM and so are all the seals in the MC. Its a crapshoot to see which fails first.
You need to get a new booster and master cylinder.
Do NOT drive your truck till you replace them. You also need to thouroughly flush the entire brake system and then hope you didn't get enough oil exposure to trash your ABS or wheel calipers.
Again, this is not a joke. I am a master cylinder engineer. This is very serious and you could have a full brake system failure - there are 2 circuits but if you trash both sets of seals by spraying Kroil into the MC you loose all braking.
Kroil is a mineral oil.
https://secure.cnchost.com/kanolabs....oil_liquid.pdf
(at least I'm 95% sure its mineral oil based on the above link to the MSDS sheet)
Mineral oil DESTROYS the master cylinder and booster. It is only a matter of time till your seals fail. Potentially all the seals will fail depending on how much oil you sprayed into the master cylinder.
This is for real - I design and test master cylinders. The seals are made of EPDM rubber since EPDM stands up to brake fluid. But when exposed to mineral oil the EPDM swells up and gets soft. The booster diaphragms are EPDM and so are all the seals in the MC. Its a crapshoot to see which fails first.
You need to get a new booster and master cylinder.
Do NOT drive your truck till you replace them. You also need to thouroughly flush the entire brake system and then hope you didn't get enough oil exposure to trash your ABS or wheel calipers.
Again, this is not a joke. I am a master cylinder engineer. This is very serious and you could have a full brake system failure - there are 2 circuits but if you trash both sets of seals by spraying Kroil into the MC you loose all braking.
#9
STOP DRIVING YOUR TRUCK
Kroil is a mineral oil.
https://secure.cnchost.com/kanolabs....oil_liquid.pdf
(at least I'm 95% sure its mineral oil based on the above link to the MSDS sheet)
Mineral oil DESTROYS the master cylinder and booster. It is only a matter of time till your seals fail. Potentially all the seals will fail depending on how much oil you sprayed into the master cylinder.
This is for real - I design and test master cylinders. The seals are made of EPDM rubber since EPDM stands up to brake fluid. But when exposed to mineral oil the EPDM swells up and gets soft. The booster diaphragms are EPDM and so are all the seals in the MC. Its a crapshoot to see which fails first.
You need to get a new booster and master cylinder.
Do NOT drive your truck till you replace them. You also need to thouroughly flush the entire brake system and then hope you didn't get enough oil exposure to trash your ABS or wheel calipers.
Again, this is not a joke. I am a master cylinder engineer. This is very serious and you could have a full brake system failure - there are 2 circuits but if you trash both sets of seals by spraying Kroil into the MC you loose all braking.
Kroil is a mineral oil.
https://secure.cnchost.com/kanolabs....oil_liquid.pdf
(at least I'm 95% sure its mineral oil based on the above link to the MSDS sheet)
Mineral oil DESTROYS the master cylinder and booster. It is only a matter of time till your seals fail. Potentially all the seals will fail depending on how much oil you sprayed into the master cylinder.
This is for real - I design and test master cylinders. The seals are made of EPDM rubber since EPDM stands up to brake fluid. But when exposed to mineral oil the EPDM swells up and gets soft. The booster diaphragms are EPDM and so are all the seals in the MC. Its a crapshoot to see which fails first.
You need to get a new booster and master cylinder.
Do NOT drive your truck till you replace them. You also need to thouroughly flush the entire brake system and then hope you didn't get enough oil exposure to trash your ABS or wheel calipers.
Again, this is not a joke. I am a master cylinder engineer. This is very serious and you could have a full brake system failure - there are 2 circuits but if you trash both sets of seals by spraying Kroil into the MC you loose all braking.
Last edited by wrench007; 07-13-2008 at 07:57 PM.
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#12
Oops
Guys - thanks for the input. Looks like I screwed the pooch on this one.
I was so impressed with the Kroil in removing the spark plugs, I guess I thought it would work on anything. Didn't even remotely consider the consequences of putting it on a rubber surface.
I'll get the booster replaced this evening. Since I merely sprayed it in the piston area of the master cylinder, does anyone know if a piston kit is available. Or does the whole cylinder have to be replaced?
Thanks and keep that positive criticism coming (unless my ex-wife is reading this).
PS - Matt - I need to clarify that I didn't spray the Kroil directly into the master cylinder reservoir, just around the piston on the back side that meets the booster. Still need to flush the brake system?
I was so impressed with the Kroil in removing the spark plugs, I guess I thought it would work on anything. Didn't even remotely consider the consequences of putting it on a rubber surface.
I'll get the booster replaced this evening. Since I merely sprayed it in the piston area of the master cylinder, does anyone know if a piston kit is available. Or does the whole cylinder have to be replaced?
Thanks and keep that positive criticism coming (unless my ex-wife is reading this).
PS - Matt - I need to clarify that I didn't spray the Kroil directly into the master cylinder reservoir, just around the piston on the back side that meets the booster. Still need to flush the brake system?
Last edited by rcknrbn; 07-15-2008 at 02:05 PM.
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#14
Guys - thanks for the input. Looks like I screwed the pooch on this one.
I was so impressed with the Kroil in removing the spark plugs, I guess I thought it would work on anything. Didn't even remotely consider the consequences of putting it on a rubber surface.
I'll get the booster replaced this evening. Since I merely sprayed it in the piston area of the master cylinder, does anyone know if a piston kit is available. Or does the whole cylinder have to be replaced?
Thanks and keep that positive criticism coming (unless my ex-wife is reading this).
PS - Matt - I need to clarify that I didn't spray the Kroil directly into the master cylinder reservoir, just around the piston on the back side that meets the booster. Still need to flush the brake system?
I was so impressed with the Kroil in removing the spark plugs, I guess I thought it would work on anything. Didn't even remotely consider the consequences of putting it on a rubber surface.
I'll get the booster replaced this evening. Since I merely sprayed it in the piston area of the master cylinder, does anyone know if a piston kit is available. Or does the whole cylinder have to be replaced?
Thanks and keep that positive criticism coming (unless my ex-wife is reading this).
PS - Matt - I need to clarify that I didn't spray the Kroil directly into the master cylinder reservoir, just around the piston on the back side that meets the booster. Still need to flush the brake system?
You can't get any kits to replace the insides of a master cylinder... the only serviceable parts are the reservoir, reservoir cap, and possibly the Fluid Level Indicator switch.
It sounds like you're brake system should be ok, but I would replace the master cylinder and the booster if it were my truck. Why take the chance of crashing due to a MC failure? Then flush the system good to remove any traces of Kroil and you should be ok hopefully.
Good luck!
And don't feel too bad... if I were not a MC engineer I never would have guessed that this would be an issue and may have oiled mine if it were squeaking.
FYI to anyone who may find this with a search in the future - if your master cylinder does squeak... change the brake fluid, don't oil it. New brake fluid (with fresh additives) should remove any squeaks.
#15
What you can do is spray the pedal linkages with some silicon spray. Just don't spray anything into the back of the booster (where the rod goes through the dash panel... AKA firewall)
If the noise is in the pedal linkage this should hopefully fix it for awhile.