2008 brakes
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Originally Posted by i.ride.suzuki
As for your van, it still stops and the brakes and heat and cool as designed.
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Let me ask you a simple question. Brake operation theory aside.
Say you are drivng on a level road @ 30 mph. If you press the brake pedal about an inch and hold it there. Your truck slows down, does it not? Not real soon, but sooner than if it was just coasting to a stop, my vans do not.
This is NOT correct operation, in my eyes.
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From: Houston
Originally Posted by Tom in CT
This is NOT correct operation, in my eyes.
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From: Northern Illinois
Originally Posted by i.ride.suzuki
...but if you adjust the rod to far the heat transfer will intesfy causing brake fade because the system cannot release the brakes after they heat up...
Close, but no cigar.
If one adjust the rod TOO far out, the brakes will not suffer from "fade", they will simply lock up. Been there, done that.
Brake fade is encountered when the braking system heats up beyond the limits of the design. Adjusting the rod TOO far out simply puts more fluid in the caliper, in turn pushing the pads TOO far out and causing the rotors to lock up.
With typical brake "fade", simply allowing the components to cool will allow them to function correctly again. Adjusting the rod TOO far out locks up the rotor. No amount of time for "cooling" will fix that. One would have to get up under the vehicle and crack the bleeder valve to expel a bit of fluid in order to release the rotor from the pads.
Hope this helps.
PS:, you used the wrong form of the word "too".....
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You can spell check everything for me rms8.
Heat makes things expand. If you were to adjust the actuator rod to the point closest to lock-up, go drive around and everything feels fine. Now later down the road you go and take out your ________(insert toy here) that you need to haul with your truck. Your brakes feel great, you get to a steep hill and need some slowing down to do as engine braking isn't adequate enough. You get on the brakes, but before you let off the brakes heat to a point that the expansion of the brakes become locked-on when you do finally let off because they cannot cool (constant contact with pad and rotor) and that would be your brake fade you would experience.
Or do you want to call it something else, like "Oh****IShouldn'tHaveMessedWithThatActuatorRod "
Heat makes things expand. If you were to adjust the actuator rod to the point closest to lock-up, go drive around and everything feels fine. Now later down the road you go and take out your ________(insert toy here) that you need to haul with your truck. Your brakes feel great, you get to a steep hill and need some slowing down to do as engine braking isn't adequate enough. You get on the brakes, but before you let off the brakes heat to a point that the expansion of the brakes become locked-on when you do finally let off because they cannot cool (constant contact with pad and rotor) and that would be your brake fade you would experience.
Or do you want to call it something else, like "Oh****IShouldn'tHaveMessedWithThatActuatorRod "
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i.ride,
your "heat" theory implies that at some point theings will warm up enough that the pedal will feel normal. I have yet to experience this, wether the van is cold and empty first thing in the morning, or full and driven 100 miles. Same mush until braking begins.
I fail to understand why after 20 years of my experience, and an additional 100 or so from Ford, the brake feel for their trucks would suddenly change from fine to crap in one model year. As I said, 23 other vans in the fleet, same E-150 model ranging from 1992 to 2008, and a few other vehicles on the side, only the 2008, newly redesigned, vans have this issue.
If you're ever in town, drop me a PM, I'll let you drive one. I guarantee you will step on the brake and say "That ain't right"
I have a simple standard for brakes, when I step on them, I expect the vehicle to slow down. I am not expecting (nor do I want) to be pitched towards the windhield at the slightest touch, but I expect to feel something.
your "heat" theory implies that at some point theings will warm up enough that the pedal will feel normal. I have yet to experience this, wether the van is cold and empty first thing in the morning, or full and driven 100 miles. Same mush until braking begins.
I fail to understand why after 20 years of my experience, and an additional 100 or so from Ford, the brake feel for their trucks would suddenly change from fine to crap in one model year. As I said, 23 other vans in the fleet, same E-150 model ranging from 1992 to 2008, and a few other vehicles on the side, only the 2008, newly redesigned, vans have this issue.
If you're ever in town, drop me a PM, I'll let you drive one. I guarantee you will step on the brake and say "That ain't right"
I have a simple standard for brakes, when I step on them, I expect the vehicle to slow down. I am not expecting (nor do I want) to be pitched towards the windhield at the slightest touch, but I expect to feel something.
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Originally Posted by Tom in CT
i.ride,
your "heat" theory implies that at some point theings will warm up enough that the pedal will feel normal. I have yet to experience this, wether the van is cold and empty first thing in the morning, or full and driven 100 miles. Same mush until braking begins.
your "heat" theory implies that at some point theings will warm up enough that the pedal will feel normal. I have yet to experience this, wether the van is cold and empty first thing in the morning, or full and driven 100 miles. Same mush until braking begins.
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Originally Posted by rms8
If you have the slightest bit of mechanical inclination, then you can definitely do this. It's VERY simple. Just read this thread here :
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=275699
Good luck and let us know how it works for ya
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=275699
Good luck and let us know how it works for ya
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From: Vernon, NY
Originally Posted by silverbullet5.4 on Page 3
Here are the steps I took:
-Remove the two nuts holding the master cylinder to the brake booster, they are 1/2in bolts.
-Once the nuts are removed, slide the master cylinder straight away from the brake booster. As I mentioned before there will be alot of resistance due to the vacuum build up. You can rock the master cylinder back and forth and you will here the vacuum relieving, once it does you can slide the master straight back.
-Locate the rubber o ring and ensure it is still in place. It fits between the master cylinder and the brake booster.
-With the master cylinder pulled back(leave all lines and wires attached) just position it out of the way. You will clearly see a 7mm bolt that is threaded into the rod sticking out of the brake booster. The rod has a grooved shaft that you will need to hold with needle nose pliers to keep it from turning while backing out the 7mm bolt.
-Back the 7mm bolt out of the rod(counter clockwise) about 1/2 turn or how much you see fit. I tried half turns until I got the brake pedal to where I wanted it. It is possible loosen the bolt to much to the point where your brakes will drag, thats why I went in such small increments. It took mine about 1.25 - 1.5 turns to get it right.
-Bolt the master cylinder back in place and your done.
Sorry I didnt take pics, I didnt think of it at the time.
-Remove the two nuts holding the master cylinder to the brake booster, they are 1/2in bolts.
-Once the nuts are removed, slide the master cylinder straight away from the brake booster. As I mentioned before there will be alot of resistance due to the vacuum build up. You can rock the master cylinder back and forth and you will here the vacuum relieving, once it does you can slide the master straight back.
-Locate the rubber o ring and ensure it is still in place. It fits between the master cylinder and the brake booster.
-With the master cylinder pulled back(leave all lines and wires attached) just position it out of the way. You will clearly see a 7mm bolt that is threaded into the rod sticking out of the brake booster. The rod has a grooved shaft that you will need to hold with needle nose pliers to keep it from turning while backing out the 7mm bolt.
-Back the 7mm bolt out of the rod(counter clockwise) about 1/2 turn or how much you see fit. I tried half turns until I got the brake pedal to where I wanted it. It is possible loosen the bolt to much to the point where your brakes will drag, thats why I went in such small increments. It took mine about 1.25 - 1.5 turns to get it right.
-Bolt the master cylinder back in place and your done.
Sorry I didnt take pics, I didnt think of it at the time.
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It is better to pump the brake pedal, with the truck off to "use up" the vacuum in the brake booster. This way you do not have to wiggle or yank the MC to get it off the booster.
Also, I don't know if it's a new design, or a differnce in models, but on the 2008 E-series I have, the actuator rod does not extend past the face of the booster, the MC has a 1" or so "hub" on it that extends in to the booster.
Also, I don't know if it's a new design, or a differnce in models, but on the 2008 E-series I have, the actuator rod does not extend past the face of the booster, the MC has a 1" or so "hub" on it that extends in to the booster.