Who is running different gears with 35s and what gear are you running? I have 3:73s in my truck now but I dont have my 35s yet just running 305/65/18s right now but I am planning on going up to 35s. Im just trying to get an idea if i should consider gears down the road.

 

Similar setup here, 3.73 with 305's, staying with 33", next tire will be 325x60x18 but am looking at regearing now since the 305's still have 1 year left on em. Found 4.30's on Ford racing but not sure if they are for front and rear. I believe I have a 9.75" diff - ax code = B6. Can anyone confirm ?

 

I work at a ford dealer so I will be installing ford gears if I do gears. I get a discount on parts. The asst parts manager is a good friend of mine

 

I'm running 35's and 4.56's....

I think gears is the best mod you could do if your going to bigger tires

 

hey guys some of ford racing gears are now being made by motive. They have an m inthe part number. SOme of the guys in the mustang forums are having problems with these gears compared to the original ford racing stuff. Just a heads up.

 

i have 35's with 3.73's and cant see spending the money on gears...power loss was minimal...i do have an intake/exhaust/tuner but still...

 

How so?

 

Having 35's and 3.73's (with a 5.4L) is not too bad, but adding 6" of lift and pushing all of that extra air would kill you. I am running my 3.55's still, and it sucks.

I am planning on either 4.56's or 4.88's with more lift and larger tires.

 

How bad do the 3.55's suck? i got a supercrew and gonna be up on 35's soon, but im gonna save up for 4.10 or 4.56 next spring. just curious if i should wait on the lift, i just drive it to work, no towing, no playing,

 

Ok, I understand it but not sure if I can explain it well. When you have a larger tire, you have a larger mass further from the center pivot point, your axle. The larger mass further out requires more torque to get moving. Changing you gear ratio to a smaller gear, numerically bigger, will make it easier for you engine to get the tires moving. It really is the interaction between you engine rpm's and your tire diameter.

Hope I didn't confuse the poo outta you......at least I can rhyme!

 

whats the average cost of upgraded gears? like 4.10

 

They aren't that bad for normal use, or even light towing. Your truck will require more throttle to get up to speed, and will downshift more often climbing hills or driving into a headwind at highway speeds. All in all, you can live with the power loss until money allows for re-gearing.

Last week I towed a 6,000lb travel trailer 318 miles each way, and crossed over Tehachapi pass (CA Highway 58), it only dropped down to second gear once and maintained 60mph without any issues (and held a transmission temp of 153* ). My smaller, 2,200lb (when loaded) motorcycle trailer pulls like it isn't there. The key to taller tires and high gears is speed. If your speed is high, your RPM's are closer to where they would have been at a slower pace with stock tires. If you normally drive 65mph on the freeway, try going 70mph to be in the same RMP range. Your gas mileage will go down though.

 

You did a pretty good job explaining it... let me try and add to it:

Grab something semi heavy and hold it at arms length from you (use a 5 pound dumbell or something), now spin around in circles until you are dizzy paying close attention to the effort required not only to accelerate this object, but also to slow it down.

After you regain a straight line of sight (dizziness wears off) hold that same object up to your chest as if you were hugging it and repeat the spinning.

Which one was easier to accelerate and brake? The weight was the same on both tests, but the placement of the weight had an effect. Taller tires place the weight further to the outside of the rotation, thus having the same effect as the spinning test you just did in your livingroom. To make matters worse, you are adding weight more than likely with the taller tires and then moving that weight farther away from the point of rotation. Objects further outside of the point of rotation not only weigh more while rotating, but have to travel a farther distance in order to complete the rotation. Distance and weight increase, which need to be compensated for in some way.

 

I know.

I was just being a smart-*** because I'm from the tribe who doesn't believing in forking out about $1500.00 on gears just to save a couple of miles/gallon on the economy tree and bring the truck back to the [supposed] "stock ride" that many whistle.

To each their own...

 

I'm running 35's and Yukon 4.56's. Had the stock 3.55's in there and after I did the lift and bigger tires I could really feel a big difference in my truck and the sluggishness. With the 4.56's I regained all the lost power and the truck feels like it's supposed to, punch the accelerator and it goes and no more gear searching going up hills.