$239 ROTUNDA TOOL NOT NEEDED!!!!!!!I spent $2.86
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From: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
I did a quick search by entering the words "porcelain glue" and came up with a bunch of threads. Here is one of them, hope this helps.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...porcelain+glue
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...porcelain+glue
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Jim
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If you are asking what I think you are, those are not bolts. It's one piece of allthread with nuts screwed down to different positions.
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Jim
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Wait, are you speaking of the porcelain tool or the original shank tap/extractor?
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Jim
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you get 2 nuts, and then jam them together. this will prevent them from turning on the threaded rod while you try to crank on it
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Well, I ran up to Napa and grabbed the Lisle 65600 ford plug extractor. $93
It worked like a charm, I stuck a screwdriver in and snapped the porcelain. It broke flush with the top of the sleeve that is stuck down in the motor, then i used the tools as defined, first i used the tool to press the porcelain down to make room for the extractor to tighten in. The only issue i have is a small piece of porcelain broke off in three of the four i extracted. I am going to run up to the hardware store and get some small flexible tube to ductape to the shopvac and suck around on top of the piston. Then, just to make sure I am going to turn it over without any plugs in it hopping any fragments blow out the hole with the compression. hopefully it will be ok.
I was thinking about using the homemade unit seen here, but with broken plugs way in the back i just did not want to take a chance with problems, if it was out front only i would have make my own...
It worked like a charm, I stuck a screwdriver in and snapped the porcelain. It broke flush with the top of the sleeve that is stuck down in the motor, then i used the tools as defined, first i used the tool to press the porcelain down to make room for the extractor to tighten in. The only issue i have is a small piece of porcelain broke off in three of the four i extracted. I am going to run up to the hardware store and get some small flexible tube to ductape to the shopvac and suck around on top of the piston. Then, just to make sure I am going to turn it over without any plugs in it hopping any fragments blow out the hole with the compression. hopefully it will be ok.
I was thinking about using the homemade unit seen here, but with broken plugs way in the back i just did not want to take a chance with problems, if it was out front only i would have make my own...
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From: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
Well, I ran up to Napa and grabbed the Lisle 65600 ford plug extractor. $93
It worked like a charm, I stuck a screwdriver in and snapped the porcelain. It broke flush with the top of the sleeve that is stuck down in the motor, then i used the tools as defined, first i used the tool to press the porcelain down to make room for the extractor to tighten in. The only issue i have is a small piece of porcelain broke off in three of the four i extracted. I am going to run up to the hardware store and get some small flexible tube to ductape to the shopvac and suck around on top of the piston. Then, just to make sure I am going to turn it over without any plugs in it hopping any fragments blow out the hole with the compression. hopefully it will be ok.
I was thinking about using the homemade unit seen here, but with broken plugs way in the back i just did not want to take a chance with problems, if it was out front only i would have make my own...
It worked like a charm, I stuck a screwdriver in and snapped the porcelain. It broke flush with the top of the sleeve that is stuck down in the motor, then i used the tools as defined, first i used the tool to press the porcelain down to make room for the extractor to tighten in. The only issue i have is a small piece of porcelain broke off in three of the four i extracted. I am going to run up to the hardware store and get some small flexible tube to ductape to the shopvac and suck around on top of the piston. Then, just to make sure I am going to turn it over without any plugs in it hopping any fragments blow out the hole with the compression. hopefully it will be ok.
I was thinking about using the homemade unit seen here, but with broken plugs way in the back i just did not want to take a chance with problems, if it was out front only i would have make my own...
Good luck!
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Jim
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I think this one is good enough to earn 'Technical Innovation Contributor' under your sign on name.
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Well, I am in the middle of this mess right now and am getting more angry by the minute. I have gotten two out and broken four, 2 are still unknown.
I tested a fine thread 3/16 tap on the work bench and it will not work. Because the stainless sleeve is not the proper size for a 3/16 tap, you cannot get a fine thread tap to start, the course thread will only tap 2 threads because of the same reason. But, when the two threads are tapped and the all-thread is engaged it is pretty darn solid. This is why the rotunda kit uses a 9mm x 1.0 tap, but that all-thread would be a special order item.
Ok. so here is my question, I have had a failure not listed, the threaded sleeve has backed out leaving the entire porcelain in tact. What do i do now, do i put a screwdriver in there and crack it off? Also, on the normal failure when the porcelain fills the stainless sleeve, how do i get that out of there enough to run the tap in? Do i chisel it away with a screwdriver?
I tested a fine thread 3/16 tap on the work bench and it will not work. Because the stainless sleeve is not the proper size for a 3/16 tap, you cannot get a fine thread tap to start, the course thread will only tap 2 threads because of the same reason. But, when the two threads are tapped and the all-thread is engaged it is pretty darn solid. This is why the rotunda kit uses a 9mm x 1.0 tap, but that all-thread would be a special order item.
Ok. so here is my question, I have had a failure not listed, the threaded sleeve has backed out leaving the entire porcelain in tact. What do i do now, do i put a screwdriver in there and crack it off? Also, on the normal failure when the porcelain fills the stainless sleeve, how do i get that out of there enough to run the tap in? Do i chisel it away with a screwdriver?
Cheap Extractor
I completed my plug change with just over 46,000 miles on my 2004. I had one plug issue, which I resolved with my Craftsman extractors (#6), a 10mm socket for the extractor to slip into, an extension and some electrical tape to hold it all together. I lightly turned the extractor in with a ratchet and pulled the plug end out. Worked flawlessly and it was Cheap! Hope this will help someone.
Also I used a 5/8" spark plug socket to grab the plugs from the cavernous hole.
I have some pics in my photo gallery if needed...
Also I used a 5/8" spark plug socket to grab the plugs from the cavernous hole.
I have some pics in my photo gallery if needed...
Last edited by Robs4X4; Jun 8, 2009 at 11:08 AM.
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From: Tarpon Springs, FL, USA
I have to stop reading all these darn spark plug threads. Now I'm real scared to do mine. Think I'll just "let her ride" until it starts running like poop or 100k miles. Whichever comes first.
I completed my plug change with just over 46,000 miles on my 2004. I had one plug issue, which I resolved with my Craftsman extractors (#6), a 10mm socket for the extractor to slip into, an extension and some electrical tape to hold it all together. I lightly turned the extractor in with a ratchet and pulled the plug end out. Worked flawlessly and it was Cheap! Hope this will help someone.
Also I used a 5/8" spark plug socket to grab the plugs from the cavernous hole.
I have some pics in my photo gallery if needed...
Also I used a 5/8" spark plug socket to grab the plugs from the cavernous hole.
I have some pics in my photo gallery if needed...