Well you could get one of these...


The advantage to these is that the oil never cycles through the actual pump itself. It goes straight from the tube to the specimen container... So, theoritically at least, there's less chance of contaminating the speciment.



Or you could go the generic route, which is what I do....


The advantage here is that they're available at just about every auto parts store (Autozone, Pep Boys, Kragen, Napa, etc). And they're under $10 IIRC.

While there "may" be a lab nearby, it's unlikely. Most are "mail order" services. The most popular oil analyzer is Blackstone Labortories. The cost is $22.50 per test. And they will send you the test kit for FREE. In other words, you don't pay until they do the actual analysis. Plus, they will usually email the results to you the same day they receive the specimen.

Another very popular service is Dyson Analysis. But reports from him (Terry Dyson) are much more in depth. And it's reflected in his prices of $60 per test. IMO you'd only need a Dyson analysis if you have engine problems, and you're looking to identify the causes.

For 99% of the time, standard Blackstone tests are more than sufficient. Blackstone is all I use.



BTW - If you have hours upon hours of time available, take a look at Bob Is The Oil Guy. Talkikng about everything you ever wanted to know about motor oil! Who knew there were so many people with motor oil fetishes

 

Agreed. Oil does not break down in the pan. It is exactly like sitting on a shelf in a bottle. OK, OK...its not exactly like sitting in the bottle since it is open to the air/moisture, but it takes alot of use and heat to break down oil. The only exception is in a humid climate with water condensation inside the crankcase. This could lead to some corrosion without the oil coating the internal parts. If you drive for about 1-2 hours (at operating temperature) on the weekend, the water vapor would be driven out. If this is your case, I would not worry about it at all until the recommended 5K. The climate is so dry out here that condensing water is not a problem at all. I would guess that the dealership is just trying to get your oil change business every 3K. My wifes 07 fusion has basically been left sitting for 3 months during her maternity leave, and the oil did not contain water or "go bad". Besides, do you think that dealerships change the oil in the lot vehicles that sit for upwards of a year before they are sold? There are alot of myths going around about the life expectancy of motor oil. I guess years and years ago, these were not myths with "crudely" refined dino juice for lube applications, but quality has made leaps and bounds. Also, unless you absolutely beat the living **** out of your truck, you do not have to spend loads of money on Royal Purple, Amsoil, Red Line, or most full synthetics.

 

The best thing to do: check your oil.

These days, it varies by the oil specs. Oils are now formulated different for different uses. Some of these oils claim a very long usable lifespan, and there is every reason to believe that their claims are true. Nobody on this forum, or any other, has made claims that any of these oils failed before their advertised use period.

My truck is my daily driver. I use Royal Purple and change it out by Ford's severe driving schedule. My SUV, which sits most of the time, gets Mobil 1 15,000 Extended Performance. I change it once a year even though it's far from the 15,000 specified on the bottle. It still looks & smells clean. I have no doubt that I could leave the oil in the engine even longer than one year.

Just check your oil. Use a good oil. Any of the high end synthetics will do, & don't get caught up in the "which brand is better" controversy. If it still looks & smells clean, then leave it alone. Use something with a longer lifespan so you won't have to think about it.

 

You can't go wrong by following the Ford recommended spec in your vehicle manual.

 

I pretty much think the same way. I work for a GM dealership where we used to beat 3months/3000 miles into customers' heads so now I'm pretty much programmed that way. I'd rather spend a coupe extra bucks now changing the oil more frequently than changing the engine down the road.

 

My wife's vehicle is run about 3,500 miles per year and I changd it once a year. It sits for days or weeks in the garage and when it is run, it is usually run long enough to get good and warm. the oil is still not dirty when I change it. The moisture and other things are given a chance to evaporate off as it is run a good ways when it is used.

 

I got my truck about 2 months ago and was wondering the same thing. The service manual that ford gave me with the truck says 7,500 miles per oil change, and i think that is what i am going to go by. With a 100,000 mile warranty and dealer oil changes i dont think i will have anything to worry about.

P.S. I owned a 94 chevy S-10 that i absolutly beat the **** out of before this truck, it went 30,000 miles without an oil change more than 1 time and got "regular" oil oil changes at about 15,000 miles and it ran like the day i bought it with absolutly no engine problems for 200,000 miles. And im sure it is still running fine (traded it in).