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trying to understand a wiring diagram

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Old Feb 15, 2008 | 02:45 PM
  #16  
Quintin's Avatar
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From: Georgia on my mind...
Originally Posted by Fabian06SC
Hey quinten, any idea why there are leads from the rearview mirror to the power mirrors?

Also, if my memory serves me correctly, your a ford tech right?
(just wondering so that i could ask you for a wiring diagram lol)
See where at connector C9039, where it says "EC RTN" and "EC SIG?" EC stands for electrochromatic (auto dimming)...I guess the outside rear view mirrors autodim like the inside rear view mirror on 2008 F150s.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2008 | 02:45 PM
  #17  
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From: Alaska
Originally Posted by labman1014
yep, that is what i am doing......i guess i will try it with out it.....i bought the 14334 harness and yes it has the foil like stuff and then it is taped over the length of the wire to almost the end. i was just thinking if they put it there, it needs to be there. if i do need it, how would i attach a wire to the foil like stuff, or do i just need it to touch it to contiune the shielding?
As long as it is touching you will have continuity, but not good ohms (low resistance). I've never tried to solder to foil, so I coudn't tell you if it would hold.

You could just tear some foil back, run it into a crimp with the wire, and tape it all up to hold. But that would be my last resort.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2008 | 02:54 PM
  #18  
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From: Georgia on my mind...
Originally Posted by labman1014
yep, that is what i am doing......i guess i will try it with out it.....i bought the 14334 harness and yes it has the foil like stuff and then it is taped over the length of the wire to almost the end. i was just thinking if they put it there, it needs to be there. if i do need it, how would i attach a wire to the foil like stuff, or do i just need it to touch it to contiune the shielding?

now i just need to know how to get the front of the headliner down so i can change out the harness for the mirror and it feeds the vanity mirrors. if it matters, i do have the moon roof.
I've added shielding to crank and cam position harnesses before by just wrapping them with aluminum foil, then adding like a 16 or 18 ga ground wire to the foil with clear, quick set epoxy. Skin your ground wire back a fair amount, apply it to the foil, then epoxy over it. Wrap the harness with electrical tape to cover/protect your new shielding and go on about your business. Now, this method looks really crude, but in the instances I've had to use it, it worked okay. Function over form, I guess.

As far as the headliner goes, I'd probably remove it completely so I could cleanly install the wiring. Removing the headliner in a Screw is a bitch, the service manual will say to remove the rear glass and snake it out through the hole, but I've seen good upholstery guys take them out through the back doors. You'd swear they were gonna crease or crack the headliner, but they came out. The one time I tried it, I ruined a headliner, so take my word for what its worth.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2008 | 02:56 PM
  #19  
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From: Georgia on my mind...
Originally Posted by labman1014
Quintin---can you buy just some pins, both male and female? or do you have to buy a connecter and take them out? also, how many differnt sizes are there? the pins on this harness i have wont fit together so i am quessing there are differnt sizes. do you think, or know where i can buy the connector to certain harnesses? that would be easier and i can just cut and splice together than adding and changing pins. thanks for your help, i almost have my research knocked out......
Most any dealer has a selection of individual pins, male and female, for connectors. They aren't cheap though, and there's no publication that says you need to use "this" pin for "that" connector, so you'll have to match up what you need.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2008 | 05:48 PM
  #20  
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From: Hattiesburg, MS
Originally Posted by Quintin
I've added shielding to crank and cam position harnesses before by just wrapping them with aluminum foil, then adding like a 16 or 18 ga ground wire to the foil with clear, quick set epoxy. Skin your ground wire back a fair amount, apply it to the foil, then epoxy over it. Wrap the harness with electrical tape to cover/protect your new shielding and go on about your business. Now, this method looks really crude, but in the instances I've had to use it, it worked okay. Function over form, I guess.

As far as the headliner goes, I'd probably remove it completely so I could cleanly install the wiring. Removing the headliner in a Screw is a bitch, the service manual will say to remove the rear glass and snake it out through the hole, but I've seen good upholstery guys take them out through the back doors. You'd swear they were gonna crease or crack the headliner, but they came out. The one time I tried it, I ruined a headliner, so take my word for what its worth.
i finally took the harness apart a lil further.....there is a gray, stranded wire that is bare that run the length of the harness and it is wrapped along with the 2 video wires in the foil stuff. the harness is longer than i need, so i think i am going to the dealer to find the pin i need and add it to the the bare wire at the other end where it is open to create a complete video harness and then i will have the shielding all along the harness that i need and i will be good to go. thanks for all your help. i think i have it all. now just need the tax return back and i will be in business.....thanks again....
 
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 02:33 PM
  #21  
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From: Philadelphia
Re: Back up camera installation

Hey I guess I'll have a lengthly time installing my camera and mirror. I bought the Ford logo tailgate camera and the auto-dim mirror with compass. It's OEM stuff but I don't see any harness at the rear of my 08 Lariat either. I'm about to take the stuff over to the Dealer parts man to see if he can match me with a factory harness at either or both end(s). I'm saving this install for warmer weather though cause it's cold in Philly right now.
 

Last edited by pulsarsks; Jan 18, 2009 at 02:35 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 04:46 PM
  #22  
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From: Novato, CA
Originally Posted by hllon4whls
A sheild is useless without a ground. You can ground just one side and it should be fine. You can ground both sides, but you dont want current passing through your sheild, so be careful what you do.


Solid core wiring, sheilding and twisting the pairs all reduce noise. You can buy some sheilded cat 5 and that would probably cover the application. You can also get some sheilded J/K or probably some closed circuit wiring that has a grounded sheild. Cat sheilded cat 5 is both sheilded and twisted, so it should give good noise protection.
I don't know about in automotive, but in industrial wiring like bottling lines, etc. You only ground one side of any shielded wiring.
 
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