The rear window I found on Ebay just came in and I was thinkin about puttin it in myself.

Any tips?

 

If it's new, it'll already have sealer on it. You'll have to partially lower the headliner to get to the top row of nuts, but otherwise it's fairly straight forward. Bribe a couple buddies to hold the window in place from the bed side as you start and tighten the nuts that hold it.

What the hell happened to the original window?

 

It came off new truck at the dealership that a guy had ordered but he wanted a power sliding window so they switched em out. When I took my sliding window out I noticed it was sealed with what looked like a double sided padding/sealant of some sort. Should I try to re-seal the glass myself or take it to have it done professionally? I'm gonna call and get a price quote tomorrow but what can I expect the price range to be in?

My CB antenna got knocked off by a tree limb and fell down and busted one section out of the glass.

 

I dunno, I don't know what kind of sealer is used exactly on those windows. All the times I installed them, they were new in the box with the sealer already in place. If it's gotta be resealed, you may want to let a glass shop do it to eliminate any chance of water leaks.

 

This was from an earlier post I answered some time ago:

I just installed a power slider a month ago and its fairly straight forward. If you know how to remove the rear seat back, plastic side trim and aft roof liner, its all cake from there on. Leave your truck sitting out in the hot sun for a few hours to loosen up the adhesive and then begin removing the 16 or so nuts holding the window in. Have someone in the bed and start pushing out near a corner until you break it loose. Have your in-bed helper keep slight pressure on the glass while removing and watch out for the black adhesive which will be stringing everywhere.

I left the old, soft adhesive on the body so as to be sure it wouldn't leak when mating to the new window. Glue will already be installed on new window protected by plastic. Remove the protective plastic and install in reverse. Secure nuts in a criss-cross pattern to avoid uneven pressure on the glass.

 

you can install it yourself or get a glass shop to install it, If you do it, you need a 7mm or 8mm round butyl surround, foam core tape kit.. some installers call it a everseal kit, should be avalabile at any good autoglass shop.... can also be ordered from ford dealer...

Install is striat forward, clean off all old kit from pinchweld and glass, install kit on glass starting center bottom, use two people to set glass in your truck lining up on studs, tighten all nut to 30 in lbs from center outward, then recheck all when done....

need any more info, PM me....

Tim (Master AutoGlass Installer)
Binswanger Glass Co.

 

I like my solid rear window... it seems to keep the cab noise down a lot, compared to my Dakota's with the sliding rear glass.

 

x2 not to mention higher security

 

Fixed or sliding glass won't stop a brick, so I dunno about the added security part. I like the fixed rear window 'cause it's one less thing to go wrong, and I like having a rear defroster.

 

I like the fixed rear glass better cause I can put my 24"x12" Budweiser decal on it.

 

True, but older trucks you could just jimmy the slider open. I dont have a defroster on my rear window

 

.....and here's your sign!

 

I replaced my slider for the same reason, from day one it never worked right, would stick open or closed and rattle its a$$ off..... defrost is a big plus...

 

Me too, not to mention less things to go wrong.

 

I found the Ford part number this evening at work for the install kit, But, its a 25 FT roll..... more than twice as much as needed....

8mm Foam Core Butyl

E69Z-19562-A