I know some of this has already been covered. What are the camber and caster readings on the left and the right?

If more than a .5 degree difference side to side in camber, vehicle could pull to the side with more positive camber. Caster is opposite, more than .5 deg. and it will pull to the side with the lower caster number. If the camber is higher on one side and the caster is lower on that side, the problem is compounded.

I don't believe most of our trucks have adjustable eccentric cams factory installed on the control arms, so if camber/caster adjustments need to be made, a kit will sometimes need to be installed. Shops are lazy and only want to adjust toe because its easy.

My suggestion is also to take it to another shop.

 

Caster- Left 4.4 Right 5.0
Chamber- Left -.7 Right -.6
Toe- Left .03 Right .07

 

twmalonehunter help you seem like you know what you are talking about!!

 

Anyone

 

If I was aligning my own truck I'd settle for those camber and toe numbers, but I'd try to get the caster a little closer, although I would guess that even those caster numbers are within the tolerances.

However... based on those numbers, if your truck was going to pull to a side it would be to the left. You said your truck pulls to the right.

I would try to get my money back and go to another shop. The numbers don't lie, but service shops do.

When exactly did the truck start pulling to the right?

Also, I think you mentioned that your steering wheel was not centered when the truck was driving straight down the road. The only reason for that would be if they didn't lock the steering wheel when they were setting the toe. It's an easy step to forget, but I wouln't trust the job of any shop that missed it. Plus, based on the fact that your steering wheel is not centered should be evidence enough that the shop messed up and they should refund your money or redo the alignment.

Where did you have it done? Did they use a Hunter machine? How old was the equipment? Was your model year truck a choice in their selections in their software?

Sounds shady to me... those numbers shouldn't be enough to cause any pull.

On a side note, if you want to sell your tires and wheels... I'll buy them.

 

My '04 F150 with the 2.5" AS installed always pulled to the right and the steering wheel was never perfectly centered after installing it. The front right tire always pointed a little outward when the truck was parked facing up a hill, even when the wheels were turned straight ahead.

 

1. all leveling kits force the control arms downward and cause the tires to toe in. They have no bearing on the straightness of the tire

2. The AS kit will only install in 1 way. No other possible way to install it. Therefore, if you bolted it in with 3 bolts ontop of the coil-over perch and 3 bolts to connect the coil-over to the spacer, you are 100% installed correct.

3. The 2.5" kit only throws your toe out ~1 degree. While that is close to the max adjustment the stock suspension can make, it is completely fixable.

4. the Alignment shop is blowing smoke up your butt.

5. Your steering wheel should be exactly centered with the wheels pointed straight. Anything other than that is unacceptable and should be fixed free of charge.

quick question. did your truck pull right or left before you had the alignment done? If so, you may have messed with your tie rod ends by accident or maybe not have your upper ball joint properly torqued down. There is nothing you touch during the install that can affect your steering besides the upper ball joint.

last culprit may be your tires. if you still have your stockers, slap them back on and see if the problem still exists. 2 tires are quick and easy to change

 

It doesn't have to be the front tires causing the drift. It could be either front or rear.

 

The truck never pulled before the leveling kit. The machince seem to be updated and it was at my dealer. I just dont know what to do. It is that bad but i want it Perfect!!!

 

When you align a vehicle with a solid rear axle, or any vehicle for that matter, the front tires are setup to be parallel with the rear tires when the steering wheel is straight ahead.

Very unlikely the rear axle is the problem in this case because it's a solid axle and there are no adjustments back there.

 

That is correct. Only the TOE needs adjusting. My truck drove fine after the AS install but before the alignment. Make sure the AS is installed properly and everything is torqued correctly.

 

I am not talking at all about alignment. Tire can cause a vehicle to drift or pull to one side. I have 2 sets of tires with my truck, one for winter and one for summer. With the summer tires on, no drift or pull. With the winter tires I get a slight drift to the left. Not enough to worry about, but it will go left if I take my hand off the wheel. Same roads, same vehicle, same alignment. Only difference is the tires/wheel combo.

 

good point. I had some Uniroyals on another truck and they did that. I thought my front end was off, but I just lived with it. When I bought new tires, the pull went away.

your best bet is to take the truck elsewhere. the dealer/shop is full of crap and is just taking your money.

 

Am going to try to switch my tire left to right and see if it is radial tire pull

 

Does it pull or is the steering wheel not straight?
And don't discount the rear axle they aren't all built straight or if you messed with the u-bolts on it you can have it shift and throw the thrust angle off.
They can be tweaked a little.
Does your print out show the rear alignment numbers? It should show toe, camber and thrust angle.