Any body install one of these? I just installed one and haveing bad luck getting to work. I have a 2005 Ford F150 with 5.4 engine. I'm installing 2 electric fans so i have a relay and a controller. I hook the ignition source up for the relay and controller I also hook gray wire from the relay to the controller. I hooked the white wire up to the yellow and green wire going into the pcm (Ford print says YE-LG cylinder head return temp and GY-RD signal return) and all power connectios are hooked up, when I go to program it, I set the low at 175 and high at 205 when it hits high temp the fans cools the system down to 192 but won't shut the fans off fan stays on high. I call spal they say you should have low 30 degrees less then high which i don't care for. Thermostat doesn't even open till 195. If i hook up to GR-RD wire, the engine gets up to hi temp and kicks the fan on, the voltage going in to the white wire (sender wire for spal controller) the voltage doubles which would cause the fan to stay in high because controller reads volatge. On ether wire it stays on high when engine hits high temp.

I installed second controller same results. Now the second controller won't shut the fan off when key is in off postion. I Checked ignition source and it is off.

I'm missing something

 

Connect a digital voltmeter to the CHT wire & gound. One of those is going to be constant @ 0 volts; the other is going to be the variable voltage from the CHT. Start truck & watch to make sure the voltage varies with tempurature. That's the one you need to connect to the white wire. If not you have the wrong wires -

30 degree spread is about right - remember, there is thermal latency in the cooling system, between the stat & the CHT

Following the docs, you program with the fan fuse pulled ...

See also the troubelshooting section in the manual - manual was updated:

http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automate...WM_Ins_web.pdf

 

MGDfan


Thanks for your reply. The yellow and green is stable voltage appears to increase in voltage but if I hold voltmeter on to long, it causing the engine to go into failsafe mode and artificaly kicks tempature up to 245 degrees. So hard to tell. Enggine goes into safe mode I then shut off and restart every thing works fine until I test with voltmeter again. It can't be the gray and red because when I attach to that wire and fans kick on volts spike big time.

I think maybe the new controller may be damaged from something I did, I didn't do any thing any different then I did with other controller. One fan stays running with every thing off still runs have to disconnect from battery.

 

Hi kmk;

By 'holding the voltmeter on the Y/GRN' you simply tapped into it & did not disconnect anything, right? Because you should be able to watch that voltage in normal opration all day long and never invoke failsafe. Dunno what to make of that .. The swing should be between 0-5v.

Good luck.

 

I i tapped the voltmetter into the white wire on controller and after a few seconds engine goes to failsafe mode. So then I removed white wire from the Y/GRN and just put voltmeter on Y/GRN wire after a few seconds gauge goes to overheat scan guage shows 245 degrees and then I must shut truck off.

Why this controller stays on when power is off I"m not for sure. When I called Spal they said fan just lowers a few degrees on high side before fan shuts off. I think there is where part of my problem. If you set high side at 206 and fan turns on and cools down 10 degrees you are still at 196. How accurate is the feed off the sensor to the controller? I see Spal new book they say 10 degrees well at that rate one needs to be for sure 15 degrees hotter. If on the high side fan doesn't shut off I think it is trying to cool engine cooler then 195 and it never will because thermostat is closed. So I,m guessing that high should be set on 212 degrees when it cools down 10 degrees engine would be 202 if cools down 5 more degrees one would be at 197 and thermostat still be open but fan should shut off. Right now fan goes to high speed engine cools down 192 fans still at high speed temp can't go any lower because thermostat is closed I set high temp at 206.

 

First things first stupidiness played a mistake with readings, had voltmeter set wrong. I plain was not paying attention to setting, I had on volts the other night had it laying on counter some one played with the ***** but thats beside the point I should have seen this. It didn't help I am so baffled by setting the Spal controller.


But after voltmeter set right the yellow and green wire decrease voltage and the gray and red wire stays at .03 volts. So I don't think this will work off of sender. I am going to say screw it and get a Flexalite controller. I don't like controllers that i installed on last truck. I had Derale controllers.