Ok, Before I pull my EFANS out of my truck, just wanted to get some input on maybee what I can do so I dont have to do that. For the EFANs, there is a double fuse deal in the fuse box for fuse #1. The fuse that keeps blowing is the main fuse that affects the radio, windows and windshield wipers. I think that also affects the power for the EFAN trigger. But here is the scenario, The a/c is on, coolant temp is low to where the EFANS wont be turning on. Just wondering if I should put a bigger fuse in since its 2 10 amp fuses. Maybee I should make the accessory one larger so it can support both EFAN and accessories. Any ideas. Thanks for reading.

 

Hi.

A little more info, please.

What contoller you using?

The trigger is only a permissive signal - no load & very little current.

If it's blowing fuses you have either a wiring problem or a bad controller.

Try putting a dc ammeter in the trigger line - if it draws more than a few milliamps, and the wire itself isn't suspect, you've just found the problem - controller.

Hope this helps.

Cheers
Bubba

 

Not any experience with efans directly-but lots of vehicle wiring experience.

I know that motors draw amps, and can cause radio interference. Also, electric motor start-up is best with clean abundant power. I'd be on a good source for efans.

Actually, I'd wire directly to the battery, and then put a fuse inline, and a separate power override. The accessories dont need to be on to run the fans, the right criteria like temperature, or an override switch "on", should be.

You are putting stress on the other items on that circuit also.

 

The only reason that I have a wire with a fuse going to the fusebox to my MAD controller is to kill the fans when the key is out of the ignition so I dont burn up battery electricity. The funny thing is that the fan isnt supposed to turn on until my ECT is at 198 and I was way below that so my EFANS shouldnt be trying to turn on. I would imagine that the power for the remote wire shouldnt take too much amperage. The weird thing is that the fuse for the accessories in the piggyback fuse holder is blowing, not the one for the EFANS. Does the main fuse for the piggyback support electricity for the 2nd fuse that goes to the EFAN?

 

Wierd.

You did say your a/c was on. If you have an a/c trigger as well as the ignition trigger, then you fans will turn on, regardless of ECT.

Those should all be separate from the e-fan power circuit - which as indicated needs to be direct to the battery via large fuses.

Something else is going on here, maybe, but I still suspect the controller...

 

With the controller I have, the A/C trigger is actually a temp gague. it wasnt hot at all to trigger the fans to turn on. I wonder if i should use a larger fuse but I dont want to catch anything on fire. especially in my new truck. Maybee I have to spend a day pulling the EFANS out. I know the wiring is good. I spent a lot of time and money on good wires and sealed out all connections.

 

Can you elaborate? Temp gauge measuring what?

Three controllers I'm familiar with (Troyer, SPAL, & self-designed) all use an a/c trigger signal that follows the compressor cycle.

Sorry for being dense - period time. LOL!

 

My controller is a MAD controller. A/C is turned on by a temp sensor and is not hooked up through the compressor. My old setup was this way. It works great on the highway where the radiator for the A/C remains cool whereas it gets hot while sitting still and the thermostat kicks the fan on when it reaches 150 or something at the a/c radiator. Using a voltmeter, I made sure there no shorts on the fan controller ignition wire. Here is a pic of the fuse that keeps blowing. I belive that the fuse on the top is for the EFAN controller and the one on the bottom is for the EFAN controller and the accessories or just accesorries.

 

Hi.

Okay - gotcha.

Am I correct in assuming it was working fine for a time, then started doing this?

Is this consistently repeatable? If so, try temporarily increasing the fuse size & measuring the current on that line. Compare that to the specs ( ask Mad?). Actually, find out the specs beforehand, because if it's low amps and you measure anything extreme, it's gonna be immediately obvious...

What about checking grounds?

If, having confirmed all wiring, grounding, fans run manually, etc is good, then there's not much left - it's a pretty simple arrangement - process of elimination leaves the controller....

 

Thanks. I jumped up to a 15amp fuse and so far everything is working. I think that with the juice the ignition for the fan controller with the a/c, windows and wipers going it blew the fuse. Ill have to inspect the fuse and wiring for the next week to make sure nothing is getting too hot.