Alt. replaced at 58k mi. :(
Alt. replaced at 58k mi. :(
Title says it all. Battery light came on in the morning, by 4:30 pm I had a new battery, and the light was still on!!! Alternator costs $200 and had to order it. No crazy stereo, just driving lights...... 04 (bought new in 05) F150 2 WD XLT 5.4L. How weak is that? Longest lasting, most dependable, MY A$$!!!!!
Alternators ARE regular maintenance, but it's a shame that they've gotten so expensive. They are the same damn thing as ever, but they have passed rediculous for pricing. Just another tax for the oblivious.
Originally Posted by xlint1
Title says it all. Battery light came on in the morning, by 4:30 pm I had a new battery, and the light was still on!!! Alternator costs $200 and had to order it. No crazy stereo, just driving lights...... 04 (bought new in 05) F150 2 WD XLT 5.4L. How weak is that? Longest lasting, most dependable, MY A$$!!!!!
Originally Posted by Nates06SCab
Alternators ARE regular maintenance, but it's a shame that they've gotten so expensive. They are the same damn thing as ever, but they have passed rediculous for pricing. Just another tax for the oblivious.
Originally Posted by silverbullet5.4
...I thought everything(including spark plugs) was supposed to last til 100k miles. 

Eight years and 99,631 miles and I haven't even had a lightbulb burn out yet.
(same as above, tires brakes and plugs)
Did you replace (when it comes in) the alt or is the dealer?? Just curious, as some point down the road, I'm sure I may need to replace mine. I've NEVER had a car that didn't need one.
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I've never had a alt go at 58k mi., the stock battery was even still good!! I replaced it anyway hoping the light was that. ($95 Diehard gold) Got home and tested the alt., and it wasn't charging (12.1 volts). So I had to order a new one and installed it today. ($200 Autozone lifetime warr.) Got it installed and checked it out, she's charging 14.6 volts, BUT the batt. light is still ON!!!! I used my Diablo tuner to check the diagnostics, and it reads P0622 generator field terminal circuit. And P1000 OBD systems readiness test not complete. Anyone know what I should be looking for here? I don't want to ruin the new one.
Alts. are like anything else electronic. They may go bad quickly or they may last as long as the vehicle. I've had them replaced under warranty when the warranties were 12,000 miles and I have had them last over 200,000 miles and still going. Dirt and grit getting in them due to dirt roads or off roading seems to eat up the brushes and bearings.
I have a local alt. and starter repairman and most of the problems when they quit working are simply brushes or a diode and both are inexpensive repairs.
I have a local alt. and starter repairman and most of the problems when they quit working are simply brushes or a diode and both are inexpensive repairs.
Well this really sucks. There's only 4 wires involved- 1. battery cable (it's good) 2. fusible link (it's fine) 3. green w/ red stripe and 4. green with orange stripe (both tested good all the way to the box mounted to the firewall) Is it possible I have to replace my computer since the aternator quit charging, and I kept on driving home with the batt. light on?
I think I'm going to start flooding my alternator with CRC electronics cleaner (and letting it set for 12+ hours before driving) at least once a year. The dirt and grit eating brushes comments makes sense. These new alternators are EXPENSIVE (depite being the same old thing...).
Last edited by Nates06SCab; Mar 22, 2007 at 12:36 AM.



