I will improve my mileage
Thanks for the Super Post Chris,
What most are assuming is that my truck is just like theirs, when in reality-it really is different, and that's part of why I'm on my third one.
Its just a good platform for how I work and play-although the newer one has proven to be interesting.
I really had no choice with the HD Package. If I wanted that body style in '07, it had to be HD, with a 4.10. My last two were Lariats('00 & '03), with 3.73's, and 18" rims. I really hit a sweetspot with that configuration. (You cant get a Lariat or a FX4 like that now, only an XLT)
So that is why I started this thread, to see what people have done since '04, on the new truck, and what has worked.
Rims: I've had 18's, and liked them, but I am biased towards 20's, mainly because I can adjust sidewall, and the sidewall is lower profile. I dont go offroad much, the wheelbase doesn't lend itself to that. So the 4x4 is mainly for jaunts to NM, CO, or even Flagstaff. The truck is great in snow. So if you can imagine, its more of a Big Rig, than a Jeep. 6000lbs rolls alot better on a larger diameter wheel and tire.
I have a baseline for aerodynamics (hard cover) and rolling resistance (20's and road tires), and it sounds like tunes are bringing up third.
I dont think the debate is up yet.....
What most are assuming is that my truck is just like theirs, when in reality-it really is different, and that's part of why I'm on my third one.
Its just a good platform for how I work and play-although the newer one has proven to be interesting.
I really had no choice with the HD Package. If I wanted that body style in '07, it had to be HD, with a 4.10. My last two were Lariats('00 & '03), with 3.73's, and 18" rims. I really hit a sweetspot with that configuration. (You cant get a Lariat or a FX4 like that now, only an XLT)
So that is why I started this thread, to see what people have done since '04, on the new truck, and what has worked.
Rims: I've had 18's, and liked them, but I am biased towards 20's, mainly because I can adjust sidewall, and the sidewall is lower profile. I dont go offroad much, the wheelbase doesn't lend itself to that. So the 4x4 is mainly for jaunts to NM, CO, or even Flagstaff. The truck is great in snow. So if you can imagine, its more of a Big Rig, than a Jeep. 6000lbs rolls alot better on a larger diameter wheel and tire.
I have a baseline for aerodynamics (hard cover) and rolling resistance (20's and road tires), and it sounds like tunes are bringing up third.
I dont think the debate is up yet.....
Although I admire your search for better MPG, let me say a few things on this.
I too expected the ability to see similar results as you, but here is what I found in reality:
Switched from stock air system to K&N panel drop-in, to a GREEN intake. Gains? Maybe at freeway speeds on power. MPG? didn't have stock long enough to really compare, but I don't think so.
Exhaust. I did Magnaflow catback. No change at all.
Gearing: went from 3.55 and 32x12s~ to 4.1 and my MPG dropped from 14 even to 12.3. Very consistent. I do mostly city driving.
Only thing on your list I don't have is a tonneau, but if you do the math, unless you get a cheap tonneau it will take 4-5 years to get the money back in mileage alone.
I now get 12.3 overall. I do probably 90% city driving, and 90% aggressively. Can't help myself...
I'll tell you this though, after 2 trucks, and both trying all the basic mods, I have realized that you will NOT get your MPG gains as expected- ever.
A tonneau is the only mod that will make sense for you financially unless you plan on keeping the truck at least 4-5 years. E-fans are hit and miss. Some report 2mpg gains, other nothing.
Overall, if you do your entire list of mods, expect AT BEST 3-3.5 MPG gain on the highway.
And don't think the gears will help, heh, it won't. I was hoping the same thing as you. It doesn't work though....
I too expected the ability to see similar results as you, but here is what I found in reality:
Switched from stock air system to K&N panel drop-in, to a GREEN intake. Gains? Maybe at freeway speeds on power. MPG? didn't have stock long enough to really compare, but I don't think so.
Exhaust. I did Magnaflow catback. No change at all.
Gearing: went from 3.55 and 32x12s~ to 4.1 and my MPG dropped from 14 even to 12.3. Very consistent. I do mostly city driving.
Only thing on your list I don't have is a tonneau, but if you do the math, unless you get a cheap tonneau it will take 4-5 years to get the money back in mileage alone.
I now get 12.3 overall. I do probably 90% city driving, and 90% aggressively. Can't help myself...
I'll tell you this though, after 2 trucks, and both trying all the basic mods, I have realized that you will NOT get your MPG gains as expected- ever.
A tonneau is the only mod that will make sense for you financially unless you plan on keeping the truck at least 4-5 years. E-fans are hit and miss. Some report 2mpg gains, other nothing.
Overall, if you do your entire list of mods, expect AT BEST 3-3.5 MPG gain on the highway.
And don't think the gears will help, heh, it won't. I was hoping the same thing as you. It doesn't work though....
Not too long ago, the mythbusters did a show on tailgates and mpg. It compared an upright tailgate vs tailgate down, no tailgate, tonneau cover, and tailgate net.
They found that while driving tailgate down, it required more fuel to maintain speed than all the others. Then, from least to most efficent, where no tailgate, tailgate up, tonneau cover, and then the net.
If any of this data is reliable, and it might be, I think I might try a 30 dollar net before I invested in a $200+ tonneau cover.
Just something to chew on.
They found that while driving tailgate down, it required more fuel to maintain speed than all the others. Then, from least to most efficent, where no tailgate, tailgate up, tonneau cover, and then the net.
If any of this data is reliable, and it might be, I think I might try a 30 dollar net before I invested in a $200+ tonneau cover.
Just something to chew on.
SO we want MPG increases. I have an 06 XLT 3.55 with 285/70/17 shoes. I have the edge set at lvl 2/3 depending on towing, tonneau cover and that's about it. I live in New England where flat grade is few and far between. on lvl2 I avg14/16 town, and 16-19(best) on hwy lvl 3 Iavg 15-17 in town, and 15-20 on hwy in the summer. The winter both lvl's dropped 2-3 MPG due to winter gas. I wish i had flat terrain all the time instead of hills and high terrain
Stock i get 14 mpg
Edge Level 2 I get 14-16 mpg
Edge Level 3 I get about 11.5 mpg
I guess what I'm getting at is this. Don't buy a turner expecting to gain what the next guy gets in mpg.
Edge Level 2 I get 14-16 mpg
Edge Level 3 I get about 11.5 mpg
I guess what I'm getting at is this. Don't buy a turner expecting to gain what the next guy gets in mpg.
Let me ask this.
I'm seeing relatively consistant posts regarding MPG improvements when Edge is set to level 3.
Has anybody tried to use regular unleaded, with octane booster, while on level 3?
If premium is $.20 more, x 36.7 gallon tank, that's $7.34 more per fill up.
If octane boost can be had cheaper, then that could be a possibility.
I'm seeing relatively consistant posts regarding MPG improvements when Edge is set to level 3.
Has anybody tried to use regular unleaded, with octane booster, while on level 3?
If premium is $.20 more, x 36.7 gallon tank, that's $7.34 more per fill up.
If octane boost can be had cheaper, then that could be a possibility.
I've added a tuner, intake, and duals....and I swear, everything I've done has made my mileage decrease???? The thing that's helped the most is buying an 07 Mustang GT to drive back and forth to work
....IT get's about 24mpg highway!
....IT get's about 24mpg highway!
Originally Posted by SuperSlabCab
Let me ask this.
I'm seeing relatively consistant posts regarding MPG improvements when Edge is set to level 3.
Has anybody tried to use regular unleaded, with octane booster, while on level 3?
If premium is $.20 more, x 36.7 gallon tank, that's $7.34 more per fill up.
If octane boost can be had cheaper, then that could be a possibility.
I'm seeing relatively consistant posts regarding MPG improvements when Edge is set to level 3.
Has anybody tried to use regular unleaded, with octane booster, while on level 3?
If premium is $.20 more, x 36.7 gallon tank, that's $7.34 more per fill up.
If octane boost can be had cheaper, then that could be a possibility.
I’ve been racing for 15+ years now, so take it from me, DO NOT USE the over the counter octane boosters. Do they work? Well, yes, but if you read the fine print, they only increase the Octane level in points, NOT levels. If you’re serious about octane boost, then you would need to try a REAL octane boost which actually increases the octane LEVEL.
I have used TORCO additive in my mustang when the temps get really hot outside. Beats jacking around with the timing. The Torco (and similar products from TRUE racing fuel manufactures) will boost the octane in MY mustang from 93 pump to 100 per fill up based on my 13 gallon tank. One can of Torco additive is about $12-13.
The over the counter boosts are GIMICKS, plain and simple. Don’t risk damaging your motor from detonation by using a tuner and over the counter octane boost. It simply won’t work. See the specs on my 347 at the link below....
Last edited by rms8; Jan 21, 2007 at 10:50 AM.
I have a question, when does the bed covers come into effect? Does the aero dynamics come into effect at city driving? My driving habits dont come into effect 99% of the time because I have my 2 small kids and the wife on board. So granny driving is all I do.
I must state also that all my mods were for my personal satisfaction no to save fuel. But all together it does save some mpg. Basicly every truck is different even if it has the same mods as someone else.
I must state also that all my mods were for my personal satisfaction no to save fuel. But all together it does save some mpg. Basicly every truck is different even if it has the same mods as someone else.
After reading this whole thread, here is my thoughts as to what you should do too improve your M.P.G.
1. lightweight inexpensive bedcover
2. custom tune from Troyer tailored to improve mileage (forget the EDGE)
3. e-fans (they do reduce parastic loses on the engine which translates into better mpg) and possibly an electric waterpump (they do make them for the 5.4)
4. keep your stock wheels and tires (larger wheels weigh more and bigger tires weigh more, and the extra 20 lbs. or so at each corner in rotating mass is like carrying 100 lbs. extra per wheel all the time)
5. regear to a 3.73 or 3.55 ratio
1. lightweight inexpensive bedcover
2. custom tune from Troyer tailored to improve mileage (forget the EDGE)
3. e-fans (they do reduce parastic loses on the engine which translates into better mpg) and possibly an electric waterpump (they do make them for the 5.4)
4. keep your stock wheels and tires (larger wheels weigh more and bigger tires weigh more, and the extra 20 lbs. or so at each corner in rotating mass is like carrying 100 lbs. extra per wheel all the time)
5. regear to a 3.73 or 3.55 ratio
I know, the regear. I wish I could of ordered it that way.
I have your list on my mind, although no cheap bedcover. Good foldables are 7-$800.
Valances? Doesn't seem like adding more body mass, to push more air, would be a good idea for reducing gas consumption.
You could shape the air to provide downforce or stability, although I'm pretty sure air dams are made to prevent uplift.
I could use about 3000# of uplift to get better mileage
I have your list on my mind, although no cheap bedcover. Good foldables are 7-$800.
Valances? Doesn't seem like adding more body mass, to push more air, would be a good idea for reducing gas consumption.
You could shape the air to provide downforce or stability, although I'm pretty sure air dams are made to prevent uplift.
I could use about 3000# of uplift to get better mileage
I'm noticing not many like the bigger wheel and tire idea.
I will concede the weight will be more than my stock shoes, but I want the larger diameter to change the 4.10 to a 3 something, and get my motor rpm down-which we all can agree, is the frontline of gas savings.
If I skew my tuning formula towards torque, then keeping it at 2k rpm or a bit lower seems reasonable.
The wheels might also provide a flywheel effect, that is the rotating mass will provide lots of momentum-causing less gas pedal adjustments,etc, etc.
There's no real diet that I can put my truck on that's gonna make it less than the 6k lbs it really is.
I will concede the weight will be more than my stock shoes, but I want the larger diameter to change the 4.10 to a 3 something, and get my motor rpm down-which we all can agree, is the frontline of gas savings.
If I skew my tuning formula towards torque, then keeping it at 2k rpm or a bit lower seems reasonable.
The wheels might also provide a flywheel effect, that is the rotating mass will provide lots of momentum-causing less gas pedal adjustments,etc, etc.
There's no real diet that I can put my truck on that's gonna make it less than the 6k lbs it really is.



