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Old Nov 12, 2006 | 11:58 AM
  #31  
Buzzz's Avatar
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Originally Posted by BlueTank
Okay I must know this: is Bose worth the money? I keep hearing they are all marketing and no substance.
NO!. No highs no Lows = Bose. All marketing with boomy sounding junky drivers. Steer clear.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 08:18 PM
  #32  
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From: Alabama
Question for rms8 or Chris

With the Audiophile system (2005 Lariat SCREW), what wattage speaker should I replace the front factory speakers with? And what is the best $ vs Value speaker to look at? Thanks
 
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 10:00 PM
  #33  
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Hey i have the JL XR 570 components in the back of my truck and the JL XR ones with the seperate tweater in the front and find them to be good speakers but very bright and trebely and high, does anyone know what would be a better speaker that still would still sound as clear but have a little more base and be a little softer on my ears and not make them bleed as much?? thanks
 
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Old Nov 16, 2006 | 11:43 AM
  #34  
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From: CA
Originally Posted by BABA4488
Hey i have the JL XR 570 components in the back of my truck and the JL XR ones with the seperate tweater in the front and find them to be good speakers but very bright and trebely and high, does anyone know what would be a better speaker that still would still sound as clear but have a little more base and be a little softer on my ears and not make them bleed as much?? thanks
Something with a cloth or silk dome tweeter. I have the VR components and love them.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2006 | 01:19 PM
  #35  
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Okay, maybe I shouldn't have narrowed my scope so much when it came to getting an answer....Anyone know what the optimum watts rating of front after market speakers would be to work with a stock Audiophile system (Lariat SCREW)? Didn't mean to exclude any other resident experts, just want to avoid the "you need to rip the crappy head unit out and replace it" approach. I just want to replace my stock speakers using a reasonable money / quality balance.......

Thanks,
Bill
 
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Old Nov 16, 2006 | 01:27 PM
  #36  
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From: CA
Originally Posted by WillieP
Okay, maybe I shouldn't have narrowed my scope so much when it came to getting an answer....Anyone know what the optimum watts rating of front after market speakers would be to work with a stock Audiophile system (Lariat SCREW)? Didn't mean to exclude any other resident experts, just want to avoid the "you need to rip the crappy head unit out and replace it" approach. I just want to replace my stock speakers using a reasonable money / quality balance.......

Thanks,
Bill

Bill, Don't worry about the wattage rating on the new speakers you decide on. The HU in my best guess puts out probrably from 15-25 watts RMS. What I would look at is the sensitivity. I would get something in the 92db/1 watt or higher range. The more sensitive the louder the speakers will get with less power.

Please, don't start a "sensitivity means nothing because the testing is no good, etc. etc". war.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2006 | 01:55 PM
  #37  
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To bring out the midbass in ANY speaker set (when installing in the stock location - door) you NEED to concentrate on the install. Look at sealing up the door (kinda like the idea of making a box out of it). Use a sound deadening product on all sides of the door skins (inside & outside of the inner skin and inside of the outer skin). Make a baffle to seal up the huge hole in the door and cover up all other little holes with the deadening. Use a speaker baffle/adapter for the speakers and deaden it too.

It sounds like alot, but the rewards make up for it.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2006 | 02:06 PM
  #38  
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From: Virginia Beach
Originally Posted by rms8
There’s an inside joke in the industry, perhaps you’ve heard it too….”If it has no highs and no lows, it must be Bose”.

.
BOSE= Buy other sound equipment.

as an aside, i wasn't aware that they made aftermarket car audio products. ????
 
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Old Nov 16, 2006 | 02:07 PM
  #39  
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True but you can seal up the holes that the door panel brackets have to drop into.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2006 | 07:07 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Buzzz
True but you can seal up the holes that the door panel brackets have to drop into.
I think that's suppose to be "can't". You're right...of course you can't...but, I guarantee you will hear a HUGE difference even with the holes for the door panel clips not sealed and everything else sealed up.
 
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