2006 air intake
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2006 air intake
I know start complaining and tell me to do research. I have and have become confused and have noticed conflicting reports. I'm looking at the AF1 and the K&N 77 series. I know about heat displacement and the difference between the metal and rubber thats not the issue. My questions are:
Can I run either of these without a tuner?
Someone said I should run the 3" as opposed to the 3.5 tube on the AF1 despite what their web site says.
I'm looking to add this beofre the body lift and new exaust which may have to wait some time.
Can I run either of these without a tuner?
Someone said I should run the 3" as opposed to the 3.5 tube on the AF1 despite what their web site says.
I'm looking to add this beofre the body lift and new exaust which may have to wait some time.
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Originally Posted by cliff2026
I know start complaining and tell me to do research. I have and have become confused and have noticed conflicting reports. I'm looking at the AF1 and the K&N 77 series. I know about heat displacement and the difference between the metal and rubber thats not the issue. My questions are:
Can I run either of these without a tuner?
Someone said I should run the 3" as opposed to the 3.5 tube on the AF1 despite what their web site says.
I'm looking to add this beofre the body lift and new exaust which may have to wait some time.
Can I run either of these without a tuner?
Someone said I should run the 3" as opposed to the 3.5 tube on the AF1 despite what their web site says.
I'm looking to add this beofre the body lift and new exaust which may have to wait some time.
OK - use Search
Now that I've got that outta my system, it appears that either of those two intakes can be run without any tuning adjustments, in general. It's the 3.25" (there is no 3.5" for the 5.4?) AF1 that requires custom tuning to run without incurring lean conditions.
<Begin Bolierplate>
This is provided your truck does not have any factory-symptomatic lean tendencies to begin with - and you can't know that without 'logging it.
<End Bolierplate>
As for materials - it's not just metal per se, it's SS versus aluminum, where (outside only) polished SS has been proven to be superior to Aluminum. Plastic is also less desireable from a heat soak/IAT standpoint.
Finally - the AF1 has shown the best gains of all the tested intakes according to TP.
This is just a regurgitation of previously & repeatedly reported information, from a trusted source, so don't bother flaming or ranting, folks. Do your own research - reach your own conclusions.
The links for this stuff are all there - I gots the flu, & I don't feel like doin' that work for ya right now. Sorry.
EDIT - ahhh, just saw Dad's reply. Yup, call 'em. Good chance you'll end up getting an Xcal2/3.25" AF1 combo on their Group Buy
Cheers
Bubba
Last edited by MGDfan; Oct 16, 2006 at 12:48 PM.
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no there's not... Price is an issue. I did email them but i would expect a dealer of tuners to tell me I will need one.
Straight from the web site:
Stainless Tube Dia: 3.5"
Ford: F-150: 5.4L V8 32v (2004 - 2006)
Straight from the web site:
Stainless Tube Dia: 3.5"
Ford: F-150: 5.4L V8 32v (2004 - 2006)
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Originally Posted by cliff2026
no there's not... Price is an issue. I did email them but i would expect a dealer of tuners to tell me I will need one.
Straight from the web site:
Stainless Tube Dia: 3.5"
Ford: F-150: 5.4L V8 32v (2004 - 2006)
Straight from the web site:
Stainless Tube Dia: 3.5"
Ford: F-150: 5.4L V8 32v (2004 - 2006)
I suspect a typo, because that engine is a 24V, not a 32V
Start a piggy bank - that's a sweet deal you're gonna miss!
Cheers
Bubba
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Originally Posted by GerRod
Not to get off the subject here, but my AF1 from Troyer was more like 3.5"
TP sells 2 flavours: a 3" and a (higher perf) 3.25". I'm guessing now that does not refer to actual tube diameter, but another component ???
Colour me confused - a somewhat normal state of affairs in any case
Thanks for posting that!
Cheers
Bubba
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Originally Posted by kd4crs
To answer part of the original question, no you cannot run the AF1 without custom tuning to correct for the amount of extra air it will put into the engine.
One more time ...
(j/k - I get all pissy when I'm sick)3" - tuning not necessary, but recommended ( exception being pre-existing lean condition as noted)
3.25" - custom tuning REQUIRED.
Originally Posted by Superchips_Distributor
Well yes, you can use it to clear the codes, but what is really required is a *custom* tune to correct the A/F ratios.
See, here's how it works - if you had the 3.0" version of the AF1, it would not require tuning, and does not cause CEL's, etc. But you apparently have the larger 3.25" diameter AF1, and that unit not only gains more power and extends the power band another 500 rpm compared to the 3.0" version, but also requires correction of the MAF TF to get the Air/Fuel ratios back in line. And that cannot be done with the 1714, that can only be done via a custom tune, which we can do for you, if you like.
So the first thing you'll want to do is to remove the AF1 and measure the diameter of the tube at the end where it mates to the rubber boot that attaches to the throttle body (the opposite end from the air filter element). If that is approximately 3.25" instead of approximately 3.0", then you will need to either get another tube to reduce the diameter to just 3.0", or you will need custom tuning to correct this problem.
Ideally, the custom tune would be the route to go, simply because we gain a lot more power in our custom tuning than what you can get from the 1714, as well as it correcting the A/F's and you'd be able to use the 3.25" AF1 with all of it's advantages. The other method would be to get a 3.0" AF1 tube.
I hope that helps,
See, here's how it works - if you had the 3.0" version of the AF1, it would not require tuning, and does not cause CEL's, etc. But you apparently have the larger 3.25" diameter AF1, and that unit not only gains more power and extends the power band another 500 rpm compared to the 3.0" version, but also requires correction of the MAF TF to get the Air/Fuel ratios back in line. And that cannot be done with the 1714, that can only be done via a custom tune, which we can do for you, if you like.
So the first thing you'll want to do is to remove the AF1 and measure the diameter of the tube at the end where it mates to the rubber boot that attaches to the throttle body (the opposite end from the air filter element). If that is approximately 3.25" instead of approximately 3.0", then you will need to either get another tube to reduce the diameter to just 3.0", or you will need custom tuning to correct this problem.
Ideally, the custom tune would be the route to go, simply because we gain a lot more power in our custom tuning than what you can get from the 1714, as well as it correcting the A/F's and you'd be able to use the 3.25" AF1 with all of it's advantages. The other method would be to get a 3.0" AF1 tube.
I hope that helps,
Cheers
Bubba
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Sorry for the mysterious web site. Here it is:
http://www.airforceoneperformance.co...ts/f150-04.php
Here is the reply I got from Troyer
We have two kits for your vehicle from AF1. 1 requires additional
tuning due to the larger size of the inlet tube(3.25). Or, the 3" tube which
can be run with stock tuning. Both make nice power - the 3.25 kit makes
it longer in the rpm range. Also we can offer the AirAid which is
comparable to the AF1 in power but materials used.
They then go on top try and sell me the combo.
http://www.airforceoneperformance.co...ts/f150-04.php
Here is the reply I got from Troyer
We have two kits for your vehicle from AF1. 1 requires additional
tuning due to the larger size of the inlet tube(3.25). Or, the 3" tube which
can be run with stock tuning. Both make nice power - the 3.25 kit makes
it longer in the rpm range. Also we can offer the AirAid which is
comparable to the AF1 in power but materials used.
They then go on top try and sell me the combo.
