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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 10:21 AM
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From: Gilbert, AZ
5w-30

I know the fill tube says 5-20 but mobil 1 only makes 5-30 in the extened protection, will this cause any timing chain rattle or any down sides?
 
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 10:37 AM
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have been running valvoline 5-30 since 500m on my 05-4.6, no problems. it does get rather warm here, if your up north might want to stay with the thin stuff. any good oil should do fine I just don't think all that synthetic stuff is worth the extra $ when you change often, my .02
 
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 10:39 AM
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From: Georgia on my mind...
Oils thicker than what's recommended may cause problems with the VCT system further on down the road. Emphasis on may. Probably not. Just CYA from Ford.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 10:58 AM
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I live in az so we never see below 35 in the dead of winter and in summer the oil temp see 215 daily. Also I am going to use the 15k mile oil and just get an analysis at 7500. I figured it out and if I run it 12k it equals the cost of regular oil at 4k intervals, so I saw it worth it, let alone the time savings. It just worried my seeing 5-20 on the tube but mobil 1 only makes EP in 5-30
 
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 11:16 AM
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that 5-20 scares all us old timers I guess. my 2 cents on oil is that the longer it stays in the engine the more combustion gases it sees, since these gases are acidic it would be best not to let them stay in the engine for a prolonged time. While the syn oil would be better at lubrication the down side is leaving it in the engine for so long.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by extremeethan
I know the fill tube says 5-20 but mobil 1 only makes 5-30 in the extened protection, will this cause any timing chain rattle or any down sides?
I have heard that oil analysis shows 5w20 to have more wear metals in it than 5w30. I run Amsoil 5w30 and have had no problems. Of course, I only have 4,000 on it. I plan to do an analysis soon.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jntskip
I have heard that oil analysis shows 5w20 to have more wear metals in it than 5w30. I run Amsoil 5w30 and have had no problems. Of course, I only have 4,000 on it. I plan to do an analysis soon.
Hi.

That's a baseless statement without specifics on the oil in question. If it's a 930-spec 5w-20, you'd be wrong...

I'd sure like to know where you 'heard' that. Can you point me to your source of info?

Here are some posts to consider, from someone with some cred:

Originally Posted by Labnerd
There are a number of reasons that the 10w-40 is not a good choice for your engine. Ford recommends a 5w-xx in all of their engines. reason- it gets to the valve train quicker and reduces wear. Your 10w-40 isn't going to provide much, if any, startup protection as it will be slow to get to the top of the engine, especially in cold weather. Now for the 40 viscosity. It will not have the Ford specs, either 929 or 930 because only 5w-20 or 5w-30 qualifies. Oils with these specs will not move out of their respective viscosity ranges, have fewer deposits, run cleaner longer, and don't produce the sludge that your 10w-40 will. Your 10w-40 when at temp will retain more heat- simple physics- a thinner fluid releases its heat quicker so if you run a thinner oil, your engine internal parts will run cooler. And no you can't judge the temp by the coolant temp because it is just that, the coolant temperature, not the internal parts temp. The 10w-40 will be slow to drain back out of the heads as Ford designed the drainback system for a much thinner fluid. If you drive at high RPMs you could be starving the engine for oil or worse yet, the pump could go into cavitation and pump foam instead of liquid oil. There will be more resistance inside the engine at any RPM which is why the fuel mileage will go down some but your engine is having to work harder to overcome that resistance. There is no reason not to run the correct oil in your engine. The recommended oil is a much better oil than the one you are running. I would suggest changing the oil ASAP to the correct 5w-20 with a brand of your choice but make sure that it has the Ford spec 930 on the bottle. Not all 5w-20s have it so look before buying. The 930 oils have been turning in some of the lowest wear metals in the Triton series engines. It is the best oil on the market today for your engine.
Originally Posted by Labnerd
I'm not sure where you got it that the Havoline is not a good oil but it is one of the top rated oils in the 5w-20. What you may be seeing, and you can certainly look, is the rating on the bottle. If it is certified for 153-H spec, it is of the old formulation, or is it the 930 spec, which is the new formulation? The new formulation has a healthy dose of moly and will be a blend of ISO/SYS oils. Of the newer formulations, I would rate it over the Motorcraft in the wear metals arena. For $13.00 a case, I'd buy them out!
Originally Posted by Labnerd
The Motorcraft Synthetic 5w-20 is a dino blend of Group II+ and Group III basestock with a VI of 147. The Motorcraft 5w-30 that I have seen on the shelves is not a synthetic but a dino. Mobil One is a PAO (polyalphaolefin ) basestock. While still a petroleum product, PAO's have higher Viscosity Index's, and will hold their viscosity over a broader range than dinos. Most people don't NEED a synthetic. Synthetics have the advantage of withstanding higher temperatures without breaking down. And that's pretty much it. They have higher wear metals per analysis ( 2-3 times) than good dinos so they are not a magic bullet. The difference between the wear metals of synthetics and dinos are not as critical as it may sound though, driving habits will effect wear metals more than the type of basestock. I don't recommend Mobil One at all even though it is the most popular synthetic out there. If your driving is to and from work, occasional trip, occasionally pulling a trailer, you don't need a synthetic and the service life of the engine will not be increased by using a synthetic. However, if you are in a high heat environnment, prolonged idle, usually have a trailer behind, and are constantly driving at high speeds, you need a synthetic. For these conditions you need a quality synthetic. Amzoil fits this bill. You need to be aware that their synthetic is not API certified and it is critical that you keep your vehicle in top running condition and get an oil analysis at every oil change. Anyone using Amzoil also needs to be using their oil filters as well, they are designed to work with the oil package.
Cheers
Bubba
 

Last edited by MGDfan; Sep 22, 2006 at 01:52 PM.
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by MGDfan
Hi.

That's a baseless statement; I'd like to know where you 'heard' that.

Here are some facts:
Baseless? Perhaps, but I think not. I refuse to play the flame game, though
I stated that I "heard" it due to the fact that I did not save the info anywhere other than in my brain. Source eludes me. If I run across it I'll post it when I put the oil analysis results up....I'm running Amsoil with a bypass and plan to extend OCI, if possible.
Regards,
 
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 02:03 PM
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now I am confused Do I run that oil or not? its all they have and I really want to try that 15k oil and do analysis on it and see how it does.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by extremeethan
now I am confused Do I run that oil or not? its all they have and I really want to try that 15k oil and do analysis on it and see how it does.
I run Amsoil 5w30 and it is quieter than the Motorcraft 5w20.
Oil is a highly debated subject, as you can tell.
You should do fine with 5w30. The difference is not that drastic as to do any harm................just my $0.02
 
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jntskip
Baseless? Perhaps, but I think not. I refuse to play the flame game, though
I stated that I "heard" it due to the fact that I did not save the info anywhere other than in my brain. Source eludes me. If I run across it I'll post it when I put the oil analysis results up....I'm running Amsoil with a bypass and plan to extend OCI, if possible.
Regards,
Hi.

No flames intended . I edited my post (but before I saw your reply) to try & take the edge off after the fact.

I'm curious as to why Amsoil's primo 0w-30 product claims even lower wear metals than their 5w-30...

Again, my point being - without specifying the oil in question, you can't make a blanket statement like that. Well, you can, but you shouldn't

Cheers
bubba
 
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by MGDfan
Hi.

No flames intended . I edited my post (but before I saw your reply) to try & take the edge off after the fact.

I'm curious as to why Amsoil's primo 0w-30 product claims even lower wear metals than their 5w-30...

Again, my point being - without specifying the oil in question, you can't make a blanket statement like that. Well, you can, but you shouldn't

Cheers
bubba
No problem.
I believe I understand what you're saying.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MGDfan
Hi.

No flames intended . I edited my post (but before I saw your reply) to try & take the edge off after the fact.

I'm curious as to why Amsoil's primo 0w-30 product claims even lower wear metals than their 5w-30...

Again, my point being - without specifying the oil in question, you can't make a blanket statement like that. Well, you can, but you shouldn't

Cheers
bubba
What do you use?
 
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by MGDfan
Hi.

No flames intended . I edited my post (but before I saw your reply) to try & take the edge off after the fact.

I'm curious as to why Amsoil's primo 0w-30 product claims even lower wear metals than their 5w-30...

Again, my point being - without specifying the oil in question, you can't make a blanket statement like that. Well, you can, but you shouldn't

Cheers
bubba

Hi back
Just who is Labnerd anyway, maybe that was just alot of bull because he got flamed. Just kidding
 

Last edited by beckerjs; Sep 22, 2006 at 03:30 PM.
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 06:53 PM
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i like my way i use 5-20 full synthetic and change it every 3000 miles .....
 
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