$650 is a sick insult for that grade scholl chit they did on your truck.
You'd think you'd earn some point by being loyal to your dealership but they just plain stuck ya.
Sorry man

 

sounds high as gas to me...
Do yourself a favor and LOOK in your owners manual or goto motorcraft.com.. see what is required for 30,000 mile maintiance... thats what you want done for warranty porposes.... no more, no less..!!!! this dose not have to be done at the Dealer, but if you have problem, you will need paperwork stating is was done and when and at what mileage....

my dealer dose all my work, but I still keep a paper record... incase the dealer should loose record of something being done....

A guy at work took this ford minivan in for a trans problem, twice, dealer said nothing wrong both times, he didn't keep paperwork... trans when out 65 miles out of factory warranty, they said no record of it being in for trans problems.... costed him a 250.00 dedect. on extended warranty... it would had been 0.00 if he keep his paperwork...
and no, I don't use this dealer, nor him anymore.....

 

I think you got ripped.

All that really needs to be done for a 30K is an oil change, maybe an alignment if you haven't had one yet, fuel filter, air filter, a general inspection, and maybe a tire rotation or rotate and balance. A transmission service ain't really necessary at that mileage unless you just want to do some preventative services or you beat on your truck pretty hard.

 

I got the tranny service, transfer case, alignment, tires rotated, coolant drain and refill, fuel filter replacement and oil change for about 350 at my local ford for my 2004 SCREW. I thought it was a good deal. I would have dont most of it myself but im really lazy. Im going to do the royal purple thing for my 2006.

 

1) $25 value here, Wal-Mart, Jiffy Lube, etc. Probably can shave $5 - 10 off a "professional" job by doing it yourself, though oil and filter can add up quick.

2) $10 at Wal-Mart. You might have to buy a little tool at AutoZone to release the filter. I didn't know how to spell "fuel filter" before doing a change on my Ranger a few years back. Took about 10 minutes.

3) Transfer case fluids. Why, exactly, are you changing this? If you're worried about the off-roading you did, I'd be more apt to change my differential fluid in my axles. That's around $15 for the oil and another $5 for a gasket, assuming that there isn't a drain plug (I've never looked). I've only done it once and was sure that it was going to make a huge mess (Rangers didn't have drain plugs on the diff covers). I was surprised at how easy it was. Much, much, much easier and cleaner than changing the oil.

4) Tranny service. I don't even know what this means. Either flush the fluid or don't do anything. And, I can't imagine a fluid flush at only 30K miles. Anyway, Jiffy Lube usually charges around $80 for a tranny fluid flush.

5) Coolant flush. Put a drain pan under your radiator. Turn the stopkok (won't let me spell the word correctly!) to drain it. Fill it back up with radiator flush (Prestone, e.g.) and follow the directions -- typically run the engine until hot and then drain again. Fill it back up with new antifreeze. Takes a few hours, but is extremely easy and low impact -- most of the time spent is letting the radiator drain and cycling with water after the cleaning fluid. Costs around $8 for the Prestone radiator cleaning fluid and another $10 for a couple of jugs of antifreeze -- more if you pay for the convenience of previously diluted, ready-to-go antifreeze.

Bottom line is that you're paying a lot of money for convenience here. I tend to have more time than money, so I'll do the small things myself. I wouldn't do tranny service myself, but then I wouldn't service my tranny at 30K miles.

Good luck.

 

uhhh, I wouldn't really say "stupid," but I would definitely say you did not make an informed decision. (ok, scratch that. I read the whole thread after your post and realize you haven't done it yet). I would suggest you call, or have your dealer call KING'S FORD, 513-683-0220. That is my dealer. Different state but $300 less.

My dealer charges $349.95 for all of the exact same things except the transfer case lubricant. Not sure why that needs changing at 30K unless you 4wheel a lot. What SHOULD be done is the rear differential lubricant change every 30K though. One thing you didn't mention was whether or not it was a tranny drain and fill or flush. Big price difference. Plus, do they change the tranny filter or not. Those are $30 here.

I'd say you would most certainly get screwed (with glass on the tip).

 

I do not care what anyone says, Jiffy Lube is the KING of robbery. They've been caught, busted, exposed, you name it, nationwide too. We have one not 10 minutes from our office. In the last 6 years, I've seen 3 news trucks there busting them.

 

Hey xplorgee, just FYI: My brother and I have been using several oils and lubes in our trucks and cars, with RP being one of them. In OUR F150s, the RP did not perform as well as Redline or Amsoil or Neo according to the lab analysis. But, nevertheless, it did well. (this is oil and tranny fluid, and differential).


Also, I keep reading several posts that are opposed to tranny "services" and "flushes." Why? I'm not a mechanic but 90% of the time I'm right there watching. It is overkill to some but to me it's no more than good insurance. (I say this because of all the tranny problems I've heard about from friends in their F150s). I had a Flush at 5K miles. This didn't worry me because the flush machine works on the tranny's own system, so even if there was "backflow" there wouldn't be enough wear metals to cause problems IMO. Then, at 15K miles I had the pan dropped, filter changed, and magnet cleaned. You wouldn't think much would occur in 15K miles but my magnet looked rounded like a donut because there was SO much wear metal on it.

I'm of a different school of thought completely on the tranny thing. The sooner the better because in the early life of the tranny, the more wear metal. By the time I get to 30K miles, I will have dropped the pan 1 more time. Then again at 30K. Same for the rear differential. The tool marks on these gears is not smooth like glass and the initial wear particles, if not cleaned out, can manifest in major problems in the future.

 

"RP"....RockPick what?....LOL

 

ha, no. RP, short for ROYAL PURPLE.

 

The manual says that the plugs need changed at 60K I believe. Is this true?? Also do you need to do the transfer cases or not?? I am planning on doing a bunch of stuff at 60K and want to know. I bought my '04 used with 50K on it and I have no idea what has or has not been done so I want to make sure I get it all serviced.

 

I know...just could not resist...

 

 

The "wear metal" you see on the transmission pan magnet isn't metal, it's just clutch material and it's perfectly normal. When there's chunks of metal hanging off the magnet, then you should be worried. What little bits of clutch material you see in the pan, well, that's what the filter is for.

The differentials are filled for life. The only time they should be serviced is if the axle was submerged in water, as if launching or retreving a boat.

Royal Purple, Redline, Amsoil. Y'all are thinking too hard about fluids. Use whatever meets OEM requirements and service it regularly.

Regarding the plugs, I'd change 'em no later than 30-40K miles, just because they're more difficult to remove in engines with high miles on them.

 

Not in my truck. That is a manufacturer recommendation and a poor one IMO. I've read in too many places now here and elsewhere that the 75w140 gear lube does not do well with moisture. It's nothing to change that lube. I'll continue changing mine every 30K.

I disagree.

uhhh, Quintin, I do not mean to be a smart *** here but how the hell is this "material" attracted to the magnet if IT ISN'T METAL??? You must be a helluva lot smarter than me because I thought metal was attracted to magnets.