This is a continuation of the 32 pager on spark plugs and those of you who did it.
FYI, some of you mentionned calling your dealorships to have 'them' do it thinking that 'they' would pay to get the broken ones out.
I called my dealership (I have 36,000 miles and I am worried). Get this, the dealer said, "those plugs are good for 100,000 miles. We won't change them till at least 70,000 mi or so". I asked If I brought the truck in would they change them anyway, or put the same ones back in , but with anti-seize, and he said, "NO". They would not touch the plugs till 70,000 mi minimum.
So I HAVE to do it myself.
Problem is that I do not have an ASCE brother and I do not have another vehicle and yes, I need this one to get to work daily.
So, for those of you who have endured the pain, does this routine sound allright?
-Remove all the extras, as per your instructions (https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=210634)
-put Kroil in the plug wells and go to bed
-start the truck just to get the heads slightly warm and shut it off
-turn the plugs and pray and if squealling is too bad, add more Kroil and turn plug in and out gently.

What did you decide the problem was, other than the lack of anti-seize on the threads? If the plug broke off, was it due to carbon deposit or just that the bottom half swiveled from the threaded part and stuck in the hole?
If it is a matter of 2 different metals melding together, why didn't Ford put a steel sleve in the plug holes and let that steel sleve and the heads meld together?/
I did find out that a set of new head is about $2000. so that should be the upper limit of cost for changing your spark plugs.
What a sad state of affairs.
And I was (was) so happy for my truck, which runs great!!!
If any of the above list is wrong, please let me know.
I know some of you did it with the engine cold, but it seems to me a little heat might expand the head (ahem) or might make the rust a little softer?
Kathy

 

Why not try another dealer?

The problem ain't with the threads, it's the metal insert portion that extends past the threads into the head itself. Carbon and/or rust builds up on this part, and the tolerances between it and the cylinder head are tight enough to where the little insert may seize up in the head and break off upon removal.

 

I know there are many that have changed them because of the plugs breaking but, if you are going to remove them why not do it when the truck needs it? What I have read some have been able to remove them without any trouble. Others had to come up with some new ways to get them out after breaking them.

If you can't do the complete job yourself (including removing the head if you have to) I would let it ride and put some cash up for that possiblity when the time comes.

 

If it works, don't fix it.

I'm not touchin' my dang plugs, so long's the engine runs OK. Heck, I may let mine go for 200,000 miles, long's it's runnin' good.

Ain't no dang plug worth the price of a head R&R.

Or, I may just trade the sucker. Can't decide.
Sure is a good truck, though.

CW
'04 Lariat Screw, 5.4L, 3.73, Tow pkg

 

It's a dumba$$ plug design that was dictated purely by keeping production costs down. Could Ford and Autolite have developed a stronger, more durable plug that wouldn't have these issues? Of course they could have, but that would cost more. That metal sleeve shouldn't be part of the ceramic insert, it should be part of the outer metal shell. That would make it strong enough to avoid breaking upon removal. Hopefully the aftermarket will develop something better down the road, although I believe Autolite has a patent/copyright that prevents anyone else from producing them.

I don't plan on replacing my plugs as long as it continues to run OK. It would be nice however, to pull them out once in awhile to inspect without having to worry about creating a huge repair bill for myself. Awesome engine, awesome truck, but Ford really screwed the pooch on the plugs.

Rant over.

 

this is hilarious...am i the only one that caught this, or am i the only one un-cooth enough to mention it!?

 

What is hilarious?

 

Has anyone tried the carbon removal treatment prior to removing the plugs? If carbon build up is the main problem here then the treatment should greatly improve plug removal without breakage. I plan to get a carbon removal treatemnt at 25K and then change out my plugs.

 

carbon remover = snake oil

might as well use "fuel addatives" with every fill up...

 

kn127, That's exactly what I planned to do. I have a 2004 f-150 which just went over 10,000 miles. Had it for almost two years now. I don't put many miles on it. But now I'm a little spooked. Guess I'll have to call the dealer service department and see what they say. But I thought it would be good insurance if I got the plugs changed before my warrenty expired. Thanks for the heads up.

 

Quintin-
If it is not the rust on the threads, why is putting the anti-seize compound on the threads going to solve anything?
And it sounds like doing a de-carbonizer treatment should be what I need to do first, then?

 

kn127,

Do you have a copy of the TSB?

 

sounds like this problem has existed in some form for about 6 years, im surprised someone hasnt sued ford regarding this obviously defective product

 

I dunno. Anti seize just sounds like a good idea to me.

And any of those intake cleaning de-carbonizer mumbo jumbo services ain't gonna do squat, IMO.

 

kd4crs-
No I do not have the service bulletin.
I tried to find one, but the list I saw did not include it???
Assume Ford is trying to ignore it.
What is Ford going to do when these trucks, motors, hit 100,000 and there is a swarm of demands for new heads?
Maybe that was their idea.
Do you know what site I can go to to get it?
Thanks,
Kathy