So like 500 for the wheels and powdercoat?

 

Yes.. 500 ish for the wheels all finshed up.. and before you ask, to complete the package those are BF Goodrich Mud Terrain Tires... 285 75 R17 tires... and they cost me like twice what the wheels cost.. or 1000ish

 

eek!

 

Totally agree Casey, and I get the sense you are being more than fair about this entire process...looking forward to it! I didn't think shipping was included, but wanted to confirm. I can send you the money as soon as you get the chance to work up a final price for the bar powder coated and shipped to 78628 (zip code). Thanks again for doing this!

 

If your still sending around the docs for making this, hit me up please!

 

Casey, I thought I would snap a few pics of the holes in the frame, I think you are talking about mounting the bar to. This should clear up some questions about the mounting. My truck is an 06 Lariat with the 6.5 bed, so I guess the holes havn't changed.

en't changed.

 

Outstanding Kitchenboy... those are the holes my friend... thanks for snapping those pics...

bniedert: I tried e-mailing them to you but the message bounced... no worky

 

Casey, did you use really large bolts or shims of some kind to fill the hole (to keep it from moving) or just really tighten it down and use a washer? That part of the frame is flanged out so there will be space between the flat strap and the hole it bolts to.

 

Glad you brought that up TXCobra... there is a small 1/2" flange there and no, I didn't use anything to fill the gap and it hasn't moved or loosened up sense. I used 3/4" bolts (if I'm not mistaken) with large washes on the frame side and the bar side, a lock washer and lock nut just in case. Once the light "hoop" is welded to the strap steel it's pretty rigid and since we're not trying to pull ourselves out of the mud with this thing I figured it would be okay. I cranked the nuts and bolts down until I noticed the steel strap slightly bowing just a little (due to the gap) I left it at that and haven't had any problems with vibration or anything coming loose. I suppose you could make yourself some sort of spacer and I thought about that but I'd just assume it be tightened up against the frame rather than a stack of washers or something like that. I have "bumped" a few things with this and it's pretty stiff... but not big-foot crash up derby stiff... I don't want nobody blaming me cause my cheap light bar let that tree come through to the bumper when they were out wheeling and going crazy with their buddies and said "Hey, hold my beer, watch this" and try to plow over an 80 year old Oak tree or something...

Casey

 

If you can casey, can you take a picture sometime of where it mounts to the frame? I can't see where you drilled the holes for the bolts in the picture you sent me. A visual would be great.

 

Hey Fx4... dude.. look like 3 posts up... Kitchenboy took pics of where it bolts to the frame... I left off the location of the holes in the drawing for some dumb reason but if you build it yourself all you really gotta do it hold it up against those holes and mark the location from the backside... then use slightly smaller hardware than the diameter of the holes in the frame so you can level it up or move it up and down (slightly) if you need too...

 

LOL...I can picture someone trying that in a drunken stooper, but not someone blaming you for any liability (unless they were still drunk!)

Also, will you already have the holes drilled for the mounting location and the lights? I think that will be a major help for those that you will ship already powder coated (so as not to damage the coating in the process of drilling).

Sorry for so many questions, but I figure these help you and your customers think through stufft before you "go to production".

 

Hey Casey, got the plans this morning when I checked my mail...absolutly amazing. Plan on getting this done this week and posting pics of it on the truck by next weekend.

 

No problem Gary... I appreciate the help... Yes, I had planned to pre drill the holes and of course send the necessary hardware to mount the thing. I think 5/8ths should be plenty and leave enough room for adjustment in the frame holes. After reviewing some pics of 05 and later trucks it looks like the gap is a little more narrow than on my 04 but it still looks way bigger than 2". That should give you plenty of wiggle room. Do me a favor if you feel like it and run out to your truck, make sure the gap is bigger than 2" and make sure the holes are about centered in the gap as well. That'll tell me where I have to put the holes in order to make it fit right (up or down)... If you, or anyone else would rather drill the holes themselves I'll do that too... it may be a bit more of a hassle BUT it would ensure you got the holes perfect but at the same time it would suck to drill through that pretty finish. I'm just not sure how much variation there is on these things... but we'll give'er a shot...

Outstanding Gibs.... glad you liked them... lets see how it looks when you get'er dun

 

Casey, thanks for the instructions. Will post back when completed.

Oh, and to the question on mounting, you could always use some kind of cam bolt to fill the oblong hole.

joe