Part No. for xlt console wire harness
Part No. for xlt console wire harness
The parts department where I'm located is worthless.
I've got a regular cab that had the center seat from the factory. I have an xlt console to replace the seat but I would like to use the power outlet on the console. I believe I need some sort of harness that runs under the carpet and connects to the power outlet on the console. I can't find this harness on fordparts.com and the dealer says that it has to be ordered with a new console and can't be sold separately. That sounded like BS to me.
Does anyone have the part number to the wire I'm thinking of? Additionally I have no idea where or how it connects. Obviously one end connects to the console, what about the other end? Thanks.
I've got a regular cab that had the center seat from the factory. I have an xlt console to replace the seat but I would like to use the power outlet on the console. I believe I need some sort of harness that runs under the carpet and connects to the power outlet on the console. I can't find this harness on fordparts.com and the dealer says that it has to be ordered with a new console and can't be sold separately. That sounded like BS to me.
Does anyone have the part number to the wire I'm thinking of? Additionally I have no idea where or how it connects. Obviously one end connects to the console, what about the other end? Thanks.
Probably be a LOT cheaper either way to just run a line from under the hood through a fuze (either an in-line fuze or use one of the empty spots in the box and wire up both ends) and into the power outlet you want to use. If your truck didn't come with the wiring harness, there might not even be a place for it to hook up on the truck end, regardless of whether it works with the console. I have a 40/20/40 front seat in my SCrew, and the dash is different than center console versions, so I'm sure the wiring harness is too.
personally I'd wire it up direct.
I plug my charger for the cordless drill in, and have to remember to hit the remote every once in a while to keep the timer from shutting down the power before the battery is charged
I plug my charger for the cordless drill in, and have to remember to hit the remote every once in a while to keep the timer from shutting down the power before the battery is charged
Originally Posted by vigness
personally I'd wire it up direct.
I plug my charger for the cordless drill in, and have to remember to hit the remote every once in a while to keep the timer from shutting down the power before the battery is charged
I plug my charger for the cordless drill in, and have to remember to hit the remote every once in a while to keep the timer from shutting down the power before the battery is charged

Um, to be sure, do not wire it up 'direct'. I mean do not forget to put a fuse in there.
Do tap it 'direct' off the battery with heavy wire (12-10 gauge) for lots of power, but with an inline fuse (20-25 amp).
I am sure you will do that, but some folks read these and don't ask questions...
Chris
Do tap it 'direct' off the battery with heavy wire (12-10 gauge) for lots of power, but with an inline fuse (20-25 amp).
I am sure you will do that, but some folks read these and don't ask questions...
Chris
Originally Posted by ChrisAdams
Um, to be sure, do not wire it up 'direct'. I mean do not forget to put a fuse in there.
Do tap it 'direct' off the battery with heavy wire (12-10 gauge) for lots of power, but with an inline fuse (20-25 amp).
I am sure you will do that, but some folks read these and don't ask questions...
Chris
Do tap it 'direct' off the battery with heavy wire (12-10 gauge) for lots of power, but with an inline fuse (20-25 amp).
I am sure you will do that, but some folks read these and don't ask questions...
Chris
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Not sure why Ford put the convience outlets on the timer with the lights, it's a pain for using chargers, can't even think about putting a 12V cooler in, would have to trip the remote every 45min
The 2006 EVTM does not show the power points on the Battery saver relay or the accessory delay relay.
They show hot at all time from the Central junction box fuses # 41, 39, and 37.
Without the flow through console, the path shows :
1. Socket ( 1L2Z-19N236-BA ) to C3064
1.1. C3064 is a 3 pin black connector with the VT-OG & BK wires in it. ( VT-OG is Circuit 131 power point fuse #37 20 AMP.)
1.2. This connector shows as under the carpet in the rear center of the truck.
2. C3064 via EVTM harness #14B079 to Connector C339
2.1. C339 is a 2 pin Gray connector with VT-OG and BK in it )
3. Connector C339 to Splice S338
3.1. Splice S338 does not show on the Regular Cab in the component locations chart, only in the SCab and SCrew.
4. Connector C339 to Connector C270M
4.1. Connector C270M is at the Central Junction box, R/H kick panel
4.2. Gray connector with 8 pins, 2 columns of 4 rows of pins each ( slightly staggered rows ).
4.3. 2 pins are not used in the 8 pin connector.
4.4. Circuit 131 is the 2nd pin from the release clip end of the connector, oppisite the alingment tracks on the connector.
With what I found, the harness with Circuit 131 in it, is a totally seperate harness from the Std Cab truck.
Easy route would seem to be, tap into the power point in the dash with a circuit, and run this to the console power point, as long as you are not running more then 20 AMPs total with both power points. The dahs power point, and the Cigar lighter plug are 2 different fuses.
The other option is to use an Add a Fuse ( found at Napa, and I think Auto Zone ) to make a new 20 AMP circuit for the console, and run this along the pass side sill plate wire routing to the back, under the carpet, and use this to power the rear power point.
They are not totally blowing smoke up your butt, this would be an expensive swap out, if they would even do it ( lots of extra connector between the Std Cab and SCab / SCrew harness, less you forget rear doors, light switches, speakers, etc ).
Either use the add a fuse route, or the tap into the console power point, adn run a new 16 AWG circuit via the pass side harness route to the back, and use the smaller female space connector to the power point socket ( already in the console I assume ?? )
They show hot at all time from the Central junction box fuses # 41, 39, and 37.
Without the flow through console, the path shows :
1. Socket ( 1L2Z-19N236-BA ) to C3064
1.1. C3064 is a 3 pin black connector with the VT-OG & BK wires in it. ( VT-OG is Circuit 131 power point fuse #37 20 AMP.)
1.2. This connector shows as under the carpet in the rear center of the truck.
2. C3064 via EVTM harness #14B079 to Connector C339
2.1. C339 is a 2 pin Gray connector with VT-OG and BK in it )
3. Connector C339 to Splice S338
3.1. Splice S338 does not show on the Regular Cab in the component locations chart, only in the SCab and SCrew.
4. Connector C339 to Connector C270M
4.1. Connector C270M is at the Central Junction box, R/H kick panel
4.2. Gray connector with 8 pins, 2 columns of 4 rows of pins each ( slightly staggered rows ).
4.3. 2 pins are not used in the 8 pin connector.
4.4. Circuit 131 is the 2nd pin from the release clip end of the connector, oppisite the alingment tracks on the connector.
With what I found, the harness with Circuit 131 in it, is a totally seperate harness from the Std Cab truck.
Easy route would seem to be, tap into the power point in the dash with a circuit, and run this to the console power point, as long as you are not running more then 20 AMPs total with both power points. The dahs power point, and the Cigar lighter plug are 2 different fuses.
The other option is to use an Add a Fuse ( found at Napa, and I think Auto Zone ) to make a new 20 AMP circuit for the console, and run this along the pass side sill plate wire routing to the back, under the carpet, and use this to power the rear power point.
They are not totally blowing smoke up your butt, this would be an expensive swap out, if they would even do it ( lots of extra connector between the Std Cab and SCab / SCrew harness, less you forget rear doors, light switches, speakers, etc ).
Either use the add a fuse route, or the tap into the console power point, adn run a new 16 AWG circuit via the pass side harness route to the back, and use the smaller female space connector to the power point socket ( already in the console I assume ?? )


