Aaron....Thanks again for the pictures. Your post will help many people on here with their install just as it helped me. I couldn't wait till tomorrow.

Took my laptop outside since I have wireless internet. Followed your instructions exactly. First side was done in 1 1/2 hours. Only problem I had was with the ball joint spinning as I as trying to tighten the nut. I just jacked the lower control arm up enough to where it put stress (if you will) on the ball joint bolt and it tighten right up. Was able to torque it to 90 ft lbs. Other side took me about 40 minutes. The slowest part of the process was taking the nuts off the strut. Everything else went quick. I am a little concerned about the lower control arm bolt. Wasn't able to get it tightened to 250 ft lbs.

Anyways...thanks again. Will get pics as soon as I can.

Brian

 

Why did you have to replace the bushings?

 

Awesome write-up. I always get so anxious about doing this kind of job, I jump into it without thinking about taking pictures. By the time I think about it, I'm ten steps into the job. You really should be commended for an awesome job of writing that job up.

 

Don't worry too much about that bolt. The reason is has to be so tight is because, if loose, it will allow the strut assembly to move a little relative to the lower control arm over rough ground. This will create a clunking or knocking noise. It really isn't a safety issue. (unless you allow the problem to persist for 100,000 miles until the bolt wears a slot into the control arm)

You're welcome btw.

 

Awesome!

*checks Mapquest to see how far it is to Pittsburgh*

Darn it.

 

Because the OEM's are rubber. Didn't really "have to" (only 4200 miles), but I added a rear sway bar last week and figured I'd replace the front bushings with poly's to match the front with the rear. Adding the rear bar kind of left the front a feeling a little loose, the poly bushings tightened the front up and truck handles much, much better, I'm extremely pleased with it.

 

Good job on the photos, etc

 

If you had taken the pics they would be fit for the cover of a magazine.

 

2.5" Autospring installed


Before


After


Went to pepboys and got an alignment. Cost $35 after rebate for 4 wheel computerized alignment. Talked young girl at register into 10% discount since they wouldn't pricematch store across street and give rebate also. What do the numbers on the printout sheet mean.

If tow number is negative before alignment, does that mean was towed in or towed out?

Thanks,

Brian

 

Negative means toe out.


Stand up and look down at your feet. Almost every person on this planet has feet that are farther apart at the toes than the heels. This is negative toe.

Put your feet together at the toes and move your heels away from each other. This would be positive toe.

/ \ <Toe in (positive)

\ / <Toe out (negative)

Your truck looks nice btw.

 

Great write-up, you deserve another Step 13

 

Thanks...but I wouldn't be able to post them on this message board! Again, great job. That will really help a lot of people. Such unselfish acts should be rewarded...have another step 13 on me!

 

Just looked at the printout. The numbers were positive. I was just going on what the guy said. Makes me wonder if he knows what the hell he was doing. He never adjusted any of the camber since it was within specs.

Here is what my numbers were.

Toe before
Left Front Right Front
.70 .27


Toe After
Left Front Right Front
.04 .02

Thanks for the compliment on the truck

 

They do say that, and it should have been toed in but you couldn't have done anything make it toed out. Either the alignment tech made an error and the printout is wrong or your truck already had a lot of toe out before you did the install.

 

And my Autospring is in the mail as we speak (type)... Now I feel a whole lot better about trying to do this.