Any body have ASP pulleys
Any body have ASP pulleys
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,551
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From: Central KY
Here is a link to their website: ASP Racing. You may be able to contact them and find out. They have to be 6 rib type pulleys to work on the 04-06 F150. Hope this helps.
Last edited by kd4crs; Jan 1, 2006 at 04:10 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,124
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From: Fuquay Varina, NC
the pulleys fit, installed 2 sets today. some 3v 5.4s will need an unused mounting boss removed, i have pics but not uploaded. all in all an easy install, lots of autozone loaner tools though 
i may write a quick how to on it, id say with all the right tools, a 10-15 min job, not including that mounting boss
i may write a quick how to on it, id say with all the right tools, a 10-15 min job, not including that mounting boss
Junior Member
Joined: May 2005
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The question is though, will the 03 pulley work on the 04 and up, are they the same 3v 5.4. I am waiting till my trip to FL and back to see if the pulleys help the mpg as much as they say they do.
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,124
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From: Fuquay Varina, NC
i can do a quick run through here, you will need:
impact gun w/ deep 18mm socket
10 mm socket or wrench
strap wrench
torque wrench
RTV silicone sealant
a buddy to get his fingers chewed up holding the strap wrench
other odds and ends im forgetting, like basic hand tools
loaner tools:
serp belt removal tool
pulley puller set
fan clutch removal wrenches
remove the stock fan and shroud, i wont go through that process since its been covered
leave the engine belt on, as it will help hold the pulleys as you loosen the bolts
remove the crank bolt with the impact gun and 18mm socket
break loose the 4 10mm bolts holding the water pump pulley, but do not remove yet
remove serp belt, remove water pump pulley, use pulley puller to slowly remove crank pulley.
if you have a 3v 5.4 you may need to remove the mounting boss to the lower right of the water pump, the oversize pulley will come in contact with it. i removed an idler pulley and used a grinder to cut off the boss and grind it smooth. COVER THE ENGINE when you do this, the alum dust could be detrimental to many parts, esp the alternator, air intake, etc.
put a small amount of RTV sealant in the keyway of the new crank pulley. this is to keep engine oil from seeping out around the crank nose.
the ASP pullies now come with a longer bolt to help install them. set the new pulley back on the crank, aligning it with the keyway, you should be able to get it on enough by hand that is stays there. use the included bolt, with the original washer, to press the pulley on. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE PULLEY WITH THIS BOLT. the bolt is too long. i only needed a few turns of this bolt before the stock bolt would reach the hole again.
with your friend holding the crank pulley with a strap wrench, tighten the crank bolt to 75 ft/lbs. Loosed the bolt one full turn. Tighten again to 45 ft/lbs, then tighen another 1/4 turn.
install the new water pump pulley, making sure it does not contact anywhere on the engine block. Reinstall the OEM belt.
its that simple. i had a new tune made to bump my idle to 850 rpm, which is where the alternator will charge at its original idle speed. with efans, this is pretty important, because at a lower idle, the alternator will not be putting out as much power as it should.
did i notice a difference? not really, i have just about every other bolt on installed, so i consider it another ingredient in the mix. i havent driven the truck enough to note any MPG changes.
I hope this helped some of you guys, with the right tools, its a pretty quick and easy job that can be done in your driveway. maybe i should make this in a new thread??
impact gun w/ deep 18mm socket
10 mm socket or wrench
strap wrench
torque wrench
RTV silicone sealant
a buddy to get his fingers chewed up holding the strap wrench
other odds and ends im forgetting, like basic hand tools
loaner tools:
serp belt removal tool
pulley puller set
fan clutch removal wrenches
remove the stock fan and shroud, i wont go through that process since its been covered
leave the engine belt on, as it will help hold the pulleys as you loosen the bolts
remove the crank bolt with the impact gun and 18mm socket
break loose the 4 10mm bolts holding the water pump pulley, but do not remove yet
remove serp belt, remove water pump pulley, use pulley puller to slowly remove crank pulley.
if you have a 3v 5.4 you may need to remove the mounting boss to the lower right of the water pump, the oversize pulley will come in contact with it. i removed an idler pulley and used a grinder to cut off the boss and grind it smooth. COVER THE ENGINE when you do this, the alum dust could be detrimental to many parts, esp the alternator, air intake, etc.
put a small amount of RTV sealant in the keyway of the new crank pulley. this is to keep engine oil from seeping out around the crank nose.
the ASP pullies now come with a longer bolt to help install them. set the new pulley back on the crank, aligning it with the keyway, you should be able to get it on enough by hand that is stays there. use the included bolt, with the original washer, to press the pulley on. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE PULLEY WITH THIS BOLT. the bolt is too long. i only needed a few turns of this bolt before the stock bolt would reach the hole again.
with your friend holding the crank pulley with a strap wrench, tighten the crank bolt to 75 ft/lbs. Loosed the bolt one full turn. Tighten again to 45 ft/lbs, then tighen another 1/4 turn.
install the new water pump pulley, making sure it does not contact anywhere on the engine block. Reinstall the OEM belt.
its that simple. i had a new tune made to bump my idle to 850 rpm, which is where the alternator will charge at its original idle speed. with efans, this is pretty important, because at a lower idle, the alternator will not be putting out as much power as it should.
did i notice a difference? not really, i have just about every other bolt on installed, so i consider it another ingredient in the mix. i havent driven the truck enough to note any MPG changes.
I hope this helped some of you guys, with the right tools, its a pretty quick and easy job that can be done in your driveway. maybe i should make this in a new thread??
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,392
Likes: 0
From: Murray , Kentucky
Make sure you have a impact wrench to remove that crank bolt too! Its a real PAIN trying to remove it without one... trust me, I know.
Took me the longest to remove the fan schroud and grind on that nipple..
Took me the longest to remove the fan schroud and grind on that nipple..
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 0
From: Fuquay Varina, NC
fan shroud is not too bad, remove the fan, remove the 2 top bolts, lift the shroud, turn it clockwise 90 degrees and she comes right out! and in impact wrench definately made the task a lot easier!
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Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: MN
I just finished installing ASP pulleys and learn one thing. The length of the belts changed from a 2004 to a 2005 Ford F150, the factory belt on a 2005 is to long with ASP pulleys. I had to install a inch shorter belt to get the belt tight. I also installed Airaid junior kit and between the the two I can tell a differance in power.
