Just had my muffler cut out and replaced with a straight pipe. Sounds really great idleing around and really quiet cruising. It is noticible under load but not loud at all. in fact, the air intake noise is louder from the inside!! there has been other posts regarding how long can you spin the tires. with the muffler, i couldnt turn them over. without it, i can!!

 

Glad you like it. It amazes me the things people do. In my city, all the young guys have the local shops cut off their exhaust from the cat back. THey then have the shops custom bend pipes with a compression bender and install Flowmasters. They pay these guys a ton of money so their trucks will be loud and sound cool. With the compression bends in the pipes, there is no way they can flow as well as the stock sytem. They would be much better off performance wise and cost wise to do like you and just have the OEM muffler cut off and replaced with a pipe of performance muffler.

 

$25 for the muffler cutout and $25 for the tip. Sounds good, looks good. You cant do much to these trucks for $50 that's for sure!!!

 

On a scale of 1-10 with 1 being stock exhaust how loud is it?

 

i would have to say between 4-5. Like i said earlier, the intake noise was more noticeable when i get in it. It freaked me out. Dont know about the outside noise though.

 

The cats absorb a lot of noise.

 

well you got a tip too eh? now we need to see some pics

 

Cutting out the mufflers and replacing them with straight pipes for that obtuse-esque ‘Rrumble N Thrush’ blast of thunder truly ensures all around know that YOU are the BOSS! However, what you righteously deserve is a substantial increase of unbridled horsepower to kill them SST Hemi powered RAMs!

The following secret trick only a few F150 members know, don‘t bother reading if you’re squeamish about making irrevocable hardcore mods...You need to be fully committed to the cause.

[The following secret mod has been recently updated for ease of installation and comprehension from another prior post, same information is cut-n-paste]


Directions:
1. Drill a 3/4" hole in the bottom of the exhaust (use a circular blade with center drill) right at the location where the initial cut was made to remove the muffler.
2. Drill two 3/4” holes in the bottom of the throttle body cover (opposite each other near the fenders)
3. Drill a 3/4” hole in top of the rear valve cover (not the side valve covers, only the rear one!..This is critical!).
4. Line one: Attach one end of the stainless steel braided line to the exhaust port you made near the muffler delete, and attach the other end of that line to one of the ports you cut in the throttle body cover. (Note: Aircraft quality fittings are highly recommended over hose clamps due to the high pressure.)
5. Line two: Attach one end of the stainless steel braided line to the port you drilled in the rear valve cover, and attach the other end of that line to one of the ports you cut in the throttle body cover.
6. TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) post mod calibrations:
You’ll need an assistant (a friend, or someone you know) operate the accelerator pedal from off to max with the key in the run position, BUT the engine NOT running. Observe where the throttle position sensor indicator field of operation occurs. Note the position of the TPS when your assistant holds the accelerator pedal half way down, and mark this position. Turn off ignition, undo battery, and loosen the two screws for the throttle position sensor, and turn it to the marked position (where the accelerator pedal was depressed half way down.

Finished!


The positive boost from the exhaust provided by line one will act as a compressor super-charger, forcing air into the throttle body. More air needs more fuel, and that’s where the adjusted Throttle Position Sensor comes into play. The changed position fools the CPU into thinking that the accelerator pedal is pressed more than it actually is and so you get more fuel to go with that extra air boost. The air bypass, PCV line two, setup is an equalizer to ensure boost is not too high.


Supplies and parts needed:

Drill sizes: 3/4" drill bit with isotopic hardened tip.
Size 32 Torx bit for the Throttle Position Sensor mod.
Hoses: 13 feet of 3/4 of high pressure braided stainless steel for minimum expansion under extreme boost conditions.
4 end fitting (preferable aircraft fittings of mil specs.)


MarkCh

 

What’s next?

Once you’ve accomplished the above mod, you’ll discover a new feeling of superiority as you trounce SST RAMs at stop lights across small town America...But beware the new king of the street scene, the notorious modded SRT10...Yes, they rule and when they are around, they will show how to place your tail between your legs and get that inferior b1tch of a F150 and you home to mommy...BUT it doesn‘t have to be this way!

It’s time YOU make that SRT10 your little B1tch! You need to take it to the next level baby, ja!

And the German made Nitros 'Mega-Blast Maschine-Zerstörung’ Rennenteile (racing parts) offers max performance, exclusively contracted and made for ‘Donnerrennenmannschaft’ (Thunder’ racing team in Germany) by Rod Naw-ka Kompetition. Exclusively licensed by the Donnerrennenmannschaft, the Rod Naw-ka Kompetition made kits are not for resale, however they do offer a limited number of slightly modded kits (kit # 3ng1n3-k1773r) for export only (not to allow these parts into the hands of their European competitors). The slight changes are mostly cosmetic and were made so not to violate thier license agreement with the Donnerrennenmannschaft.

Combined with the exhaust mod above, this German made kit will create a formidable street weapon, placing you and your F150 at the top of the food chain...And here's the instructions:

First you need twin exhaust, from headers all the way back, and must be open, no cats, no mufflers, just straight pipes.

As the exhaust mod above, you need to drill two 3/4” holes, one in each of the exhaust straight pipes, just after the exhaust manifolds. Add another stainless steel hose up to the throttle body housing, for a total of three 3/4” holes (under the throttle body housing).

A few inches ahead of each of the two drilled exhaust spots for the stainless steel hose-to-throttle body housing mod, is where you add the Nitros 'Mega-Blast Maschine-Zerstörung’ kit (kit # 3ng1n3-k1773r, again, exclusively through Rod Naw-ka Kompetition). Since it’s a German company, the power is rated in PS (instead of HP), the twin 245ps shot kits is what you need, BTW it is NOT TuV approved (in an earlier post I wrote that it was, sorry).

The concept of this combined exhaust mod and the Mega-Blast is to get that high exhaust pressure mixed with Nitro creating a hi-pressure explosive charge. This does not work well with two wheel drive, as the tires just spin even with a posi rear. 4x4 is highly recommended, allowing all four tires hooking up in a cloud of smoke when the system is activated.

Tested on the Nurburgring Nordschliefe world renown GP track, a ‘Donnerrennenmannschaftn’ F150 short bed 4x4 4.6l, lowered 4" front, 6" rear, lapped a 7minute 13second lap that's '713'!!!


The age of domination has arrived for you and your F150 to rule the boulevards with impunity. Notoriety will shadow you and your F150 as the most powerful duel, forcing even highly modded SRT10 Rams into little submissive b1tches.


It’s up to you, you know what to do!

MarkCh

 

Sounds like someone has a little too much time on their hands.

 

Of all the posts, you HAD to select mine to to put that crap into!! You forgot about the part where you pump exhuast into the cab to correct the a/c problem. Now, just need to find a SRT-10 to jump on.