re-gear for 35's?
Originally Posted by jasonkola
studying those charts I think the best ratio for 33's would be 4.10 and for 35's would be 4.27. I think I heard someone mention once that someone makes a 4.27 rear gear for our trucks. I am not sure on that one though.
But it all depends, do you want more acceleration or do you want more top end? You may want to do the math to make sure you know what it is you are getting. Check out the Yukon gears they make almost any ratio, I have those on my truck.
I don't think top end is part of anybody's equation on this forum! MPG maybe? The thing is with gears ... after 4.10's you're installer starts to be more important ... and as you get closer to like 4.8x's or higher ... heat and noise can start to be a factor in that it gets harder to avoid even with the best of the best.
And, Oh yea, my RPM's are actually just about right on and maybe a few lower than my chart with the TQ conv locked. It all depends on the tire ... one size AT might actually be larger than the calculated values and other highway types smaller etc... a worn tire can make a 2-300rpm difference.
And, Oh yea, my RPM's are actually just about right on and maybe a few lower than my chart with the TQ conv locked. It all depends on the tire ... one size AT might actually be larger than the calculated values and other highway types smaller etc... a worn tire can make a 2-300rpm difference.
Last edited by tycreek; Jul 6, 2005 at 10:33 PM.
Originally Posted by tycreek
I don't think top end is part of anybody's equation on this forum! MPG maybe? The thing is with gears ... after 4.10's you're installer starts to be more important ... and as you get closer to like 4.8x's or higher ... heat and noise can start to be a factor in that it gets harder to avoid even with the best of the best.
And, Oh yea, my RPM's are actually just about right on and maybe a few lower than my chart with the TQ conv locked. It all depends on the tire ... one size AT might actually be larger than the calculated values and other highway types smaller etc... a worn tire can make a 2-300rpm difference.
And, Oh yea, my RPM's are actually just about right on and maybe a few lower than my chart with the TQ conv locked. It all depends on the tire ... one size AT might actually be larger than the calculated values and other highway types smaller etc... a worn tire can make a 2-300rpm difference.
Ya... on the highway at 80+ all the time ... 4.56's might be a bit much for 33's ... though I wouldn't trade up or down as I think for my uses it's just perfect!
I had the same thing ... wanted a guarantee that things would be right! Well worth it IMO...
If I stand on it I never hit 4th until I back out of the throttle. My take is that I just don't need to be hitting anything near 100mph in this rig so I back off ... not worth it for many reasons! Still have a good chunk of 3rd left in the 1/4mi.
I had the same thing ... wanted a guarantee that things would be right! Well worth it IMO...
If I stand on it I never hit 4th until I back out of the throttle. My take is that I just don't need to be hitting anything near 100mph in this rig so I back off ... not worth it for many reasons! Still have a good chunk of 3rd left in the 1/4mi.
Originally Posted by BalogUK
hey, sorry to barge in, but can someone further explain that chart... ive got the 3.73 with the 31" rugged trails presently- looking to go to 35's now according to the chart, they say my rpm at 65 is 2628 (factor in 30% difference for OD), and thats 1800-1900 rpm (on my truck) so, when i look at the chart, do I want to match to the 2628, or the 18-1900? when i up to 35's so the 4.27s should be right. second question, what is prime- do you want more or less rpm?
thanks alot-
jj
thanks alot-
jj
http://www.4lo.com/calc/gearratio.htm
http://www.ringpinion.com/content/calculators/RPM.asp
I went through both calculators and plugged all kinds of factors before changing my gears.


